Here ya go......I converted some of the values to ft. lbs as I don't have an "inch pounds torque wrench" [divided by 12 ]

TORQUE VALUES

AREA FT/LBS.
CRANK PIN NUT 180 TO 210
PINION GEAR NUT 35 TO 45
OIL PUMP COVER BOLTS 10
OIL PUMP MANIFOLD SCREWS 6
TAPPET GUIDE BOLTS 9 TO 12
ROCKER COVER:
5/16 INCH BOLTS 15 TO 18
1/4 INCH BOLTS 10 TO 13
UPPER ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET:
TO CYLINDER HEADS 28 TO 35
TO FRAME 28 TO 32
GEARCASE COVER SCREWS 10
CAM/NOSECONE COVER SCREWS 10
TIMER SCREWS 2.5
TAPPET SCREEN PLUG 10
SPARK PLUG 18 to 22
TRANSMISSION SIDE COVER BOLTS 10 to 12
CRANKCASE BOLTS:
STEP 1 10
STEP 2 15 TO 17
INTAKE MANIFOLD FLANGE CAPSCREW 15 to 17
PRIMARY COVER SCREWS 9 TO 10
COMPENSATING SPROCKET NUT 150 TO 165
TRANSMISSION SPROCKET NUT 110 TO 120
TRANSMISSION SPROCKET LOCKING SCREW 7 TO 9
CLUTCH HUB NUT 70 TO 80
FRONT AXLE NUT 50
REAR AXLE NUT 60 TO 65
FRONT DISC BRAKE SCREWS 16 TO 18
REAR DISC BRAKE SCREWS:
ALLEN SCREWS 23 TO 27
T-45 TORX 30 TO 45
REAR WHEEL SPROCKET BOLTS:
LACED WHEEL 45 TO 55
CAST WHEEL 55 TO 65
FRONT BRAKE CALIPER MOUNTING SCREWS 25 TO 30
REAR BRAKE CALIPER MOUNTING SCREWS 15 TO 20
BRAKE BLEEDER NIPPLES 3
BRAKE LINE BANJO FITTINGS 17 TO 22
FRONT FENDER MOUNTING BRACKET BOLTS 12 TO 18
PIVOT SHAFT 70
REAR MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING NUT 30 TO 40
TRIPLE TREE PINCH BOLTS 27 TO 32
FORK STEM NUT 35 TO 40
REAR SHOCK ABSORBER:
UPPER STUD ACORN NUT 25 TO 40
BOTTOM BOLT 25 TO 40

 

When you check over the bike and you turn a nut or bolt, you have reduced the affectiveness of the loctite, assuming there is loctite on it to begin with. So, if you can turn it, remove it and put loctite on it. BLUE loctite for aluminum, RED loctite for other places. Do not use RED loctite on aluminum. Do not use RED loctite on nuts or bolts that are frequently removed. You can use nyloc nuts on areas that do not get hot.

Experts, correct me where I am wrong here.

 

Thanks very much there traveler[sm=icon_cheers.gif]. That's more info then I expected but I'll use it. I'm getting me a torque wrench for xmas so I'll be torquing everything down for awhile... new tool excitment and all ya know[sm=happy046.gif]

 

Good advice. I did not know that you should not use red Loctite on aluminum. Does the bike come from the factory with Loctitie on the necessary bolts?

 

Red loctite sticks so well when dry that it will pull some or all the aluminum threads out with the bolt.

To be honest I am not sure how much loctite Harley uses at the factory. I do know that when I ask the Harley mechanics at San Diego Harley and Biggs Harley in San Marcos, they tell me to use loctite. Watching shows like American Chopper (OCC) and Build or Bust (Exile) they make a point of mentioning loctite or some brand of thread lock.

When I went out on my first few road tests a few weeks ago, I found all the stuff that forgot to loctite, or should I say things that I did not loctite fell off, not all of it was found. That includes things like the headlight ring (holds the light in the housing) rear axle bolt, brake caliper bolt, just to name a few. LUCKY for me none of it caused me to crash.

 

There are a few different types of Loctite, some of them are:

Blue-Medium Strength
Purple-Between blue and red/high in strength
Red-High Strength
Red-extreme strength, holds up to 300 degrees F, if you use this, you have to heat it with a torch to ever get the bolt loose!!!!!
Green-PERMANENT; Will NOT let go, it's as good as welded[&:]

Yes, they have two red loctites!!!!!

MY '05 Superglide has some bolts that had blue loctite on the threads, and I have found one bolt that had the red extreme strength. it was in the front of the engine oil pan, which is aluminum, and has a hex head. THIS IS NOT THE OIL DRAIL HOLE! the oil drain hole is at the rear of the motor!! i found this out the hard way and after 10 hours of work, i got the bolt out using a MAPP gas torch (4200 degrees F) holding it on the bolt for 2-3 20 second bursts!!![&o] along with an easy out, etc, as the hex head "cammed out"[:@]

Due to the fact that blue is medium strength, is probably about useless on some of the bolts, like the motor mounts. These just need to be hit up with a torque wrench. Once you've done it a few times, its real quick. you know what size of sockets you need, just set the torque range and "pop-pop!!"

Blue works great on parts such as the shifter peg, forward control brackets, etc.

 

I've got one to check when I get home today. My left muffler has slid back about 3/4-1" farther than the right. I'm guessing the clamp is loose.........

 

Don't forget to check your spark plugs too.

 

Have bought two Harleys in the past 5 months (traded the first on the second Momma wont let me have two) found loose bolts on both. The first bike had a 1,000 mile service done. Rode it about a week and found a loose bolt on the engine guard that was added while they did the service. I give the bike a pretty good once over before I ride, start with air pressure in tires, oil level in engine, then see if any "important" nuts or bolts are loose. If I can move them with just my fingers I break out the wrenches and loctite. As I roll out the driveway I give the rear brake a quick check and then the front brake. Ride safe

 

I bought a small pocket size book from HD called "1997-2005 Ready Reference TORQUE VALUES". It lists all models, all torque requirements and includes where there is a bolt tightening pattern and type of Loctite if required.
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