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Both my bikes were due for a brake flush and its just a hassle getting them in and it has become too expensive. Ive been investing in several tools over the last few years to be able to do more and more repairs and service myself. As always many thanks to those here on the forums that have provided so much good info.
I started researching tools available to cycle the ABS module for a complete and proper flush so a dealer visit is not required.
I found one of our forum members on YouTube and want to give a huge shoutout to Bluesrider.df for a great video turning me on to the ITM, IT Mercenary.
@Bluesrider.df I hope you are healing up well and back on two wheels soon.
This unit works as advertised and is the least expensive option I have found on the market. I purchased the HD3 which works with my 21 SGS and my 22 RG CVO.
Friday evening I decided to go ahead and flush the system on Ginger the 22 CVO RG. The Carolina Girl assisted and we did the old school bleed system with me opening the bleeder valve and her pumping the brakes.
I used the ITM first on the rear brakes and it went very well. Everything worked as expected on the rear, but I ran into problems when I went to the front. I would not get the unit to allow me to log in. After three attempts I was flustered and we went on in the house. I reviewed the directions and decided to send an email to ITM tech support. I sent a detailed email around 10pm Friday night and much to my surprise I received a super nice reply from Jason in less than 30 minutes. It was a positive, uplifting email where he assured me this was easy and walked me through a few steps. I went back to the shop around 11pm and SUCCESSFULLY completed the flush. Many thanks to Jason, awesome support.
I test rode the bike Saturday morning, tested the ABS and all worked well. We did a 131 mile HOG chapter ride yesterday and I am very pleased to have done this myself.
Ill do the SGS later this week. After reading @ShovelEd I am ordering a Mityvac MV6830 so Ill report back on how well that works for me.
Here is what surprised me. The RG has been on the highway now for 6 months. The brake fluid lit up the tester like a Christmas tree and had already started to gel in the bottom of the reservoir. Dont put this service off!
Stay tuned .
What are they charging for a brake flush? My local dealer runs promos for $99. Heck thats a shirt or two nowadays.
I just had my brakes and clutch fluid replaced at the HD dealer because I simply didn't have the time before a trip and was charged over $500. Not happy.
I have taken my other brand bikes to a non-hd dealer and they only charge around $130. I'll pay that if I don't have time to do it myself, but $500 at HD, forget it.
I just had my brakes and clutch fluid replaced at the HD dealer because I simply didn't have the time before a trip and was charged over $500. Not happy
I would not be happy either. The clutch is the easiest of the three in my opinion to do. The only thing I can think of that could drive the cost up would be the clutch if you have after market exhaust that require them to loosen or have to pull the exhaust off to access the clutch cover.
I would not be happy either. The clutch is the easiest of the three in my opinion to do. The only thing I can think of that could drive the cost up would be the clutch if you have after market exhaust that require them to loosen or have to pull the exhaust off to access the clutch cover.
I agree, but no. Stock header and cat with aftermarket slip ons.
I just had my brakes and clutch fluid replaced at the HD dealer because I simply didn't have the time before a trip and was charged over $500. Not happy.
I have taken my other brand bikes to a non-hd dealer and they only charge around $130. I'll pay that if I don't have time to do it myself, but $500 at HD, forget it.
Originally Posted by Cosmic Razorback
I would not be happy either. The clutch is the easiest of the three in my opinion to do. The only thing I can think of that could drive the cost up would be the clutch if you have after market exhaust that require them to loosen or have to pull the exhaust off to access the clutch cover.
Originally Posted by mikefmoto
I agree, but no. Stock header and cat with aftermarket slip ons.
I'll be the first to ask, do you have a factory service manual for your 2020? I realize service procedures may have changed between 2018 and 2020. It's virtually impossible to remove the outer transmission cover on my 2018 without loosening/removing OE exhaust components per the FSM. Having done this three times on my 2018, it does add about an 1/2 hour labor time from start to finish. I suspect your "non-hd dealer" has never serviced a modern HD by the book.
I'll be the first to ask, do you have a factory service manual for your 2020? I realize service procedures may have changed between 2018 and 2020. It's virtually impossible to remove the outer transmission cover on my 2018 without loosening/removing OE exhaust components per the FSM. Having done this three times on my 2018, it does add about an 1/2 hour labor time from start to finish. I suspect your "non-hd dealer" has never serviced a modern HD by the book.
Yep. Have to remove mufflers, loosen crossover pipe, remove exhaust bracket near floorboard, and loosen exhaust flanges on heads to get the transmission cover off. The first time I did that, I cut off about 3/4" from the bottom of the transmission cover so I could get it off without fiddling with the exhaust.
I'll be the first to ask, do you have a factory service manual for your 2020? I realize service procedures may have changed between 2018 and 2020. It's virtually impossible to remove the outer transmission cover on my 2018 without loosening/removing OE exhaust components per the FSM. Having done this three times on my 2018, it does add about an 1/2 hour labor time from start to finish. I suspect your "non-hd dealer" has never serviced a modern HD by the book.
I found a little trick to get the tranny cover off without loosening the pipes. This is on my 19 Street Glide with dbx 4.5 pipes. I am able to get all the screws out of the cover but there is a rubber gasket that is on the bottom of the cover. If I pry that off I can wiggle the cover enough to get it to clear the pipe and come off without loosening the pipe. To put it back on I add some double stick tape to the rubber piece and squeeze it back in when the cover is slide back in place. That rubber piece just makes it so it doesn't clear when trying to lift out the cover. Without that rubber piece it gives me enough wiggle room to slide the cover up and out. I may have had to loosen the heat shield but I I'm not sure.
#31
25800109TRIM, RUBBER
Last edited by golfblues; Jun 24, 2024 at 09:01 PM.
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