Cornering Traction Control - what to expect?
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 919
Likes: 245
There’s no real way to predict how any bike is going to react in gravel. It’s all going to depend on how much gravel is there, is it fine sand gravel or small pebbles, how much tread is on the tires, and so on, and so on. Way too many variables.
I’m not so sure traction control would’ve helped or not.
I’m not so sure traction control would’ve helped or not.
My thought on it is I'm not sure anything would have helped it laying down, rider aids or not if it has no traction it can't stay up. However laying it down wasn't the big issue, it was that tank slapping caused from the grip being lost and regained. It basically would have been a high side if I was going faster. Since it happened in a second there is nothing I could have done, no reaction, no training, but traction control adjusts several times in a single second and if it knew traction was lost and cut the power, then maybe I wouldn't have had such a violent regaining and loss of power over and over.
I believe it would have helped, maybe not to the extent that I didn't lay it down, but laying it down gently and laying it down violently, even at 20mph, is a big difference in recovery. I dunno, I suppose it's all a big 'maybe', but if it's possible it can help it's probably a good investment.
But after watching some videos comparing bikes with and without it, the ones without it always look like they are about to throw the rider off the front of the bike in a high side when they re-catch their grip. And I'd like to never, ever, do one of those.
Here is one for anyone in the future looking into it, off of Harleys RDRS system. Can't fix everything but the difference of the bike at 1:10 that would have high sided and the run afterwards I think is a good argument to have traction control to anyone riding in areas with gravel. (I deal with it a lot here as gravel roads connect to paved roads)
Last edited by CaptainAwesome; Nov 28, 2025 at 01:50 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2025
Posts: 988
Likes: 922
From: Mesquite Nevada
I do not think the tap slappers was from anything wrong with the bike. Every time the rear gained traction it was in a slight different direction.
Glad to hear you were not seriously injured.
I'd have hash marked my underwear...LOL
Glad to hear you were not seriously injured.
I'd have hash marked my underwear...LOL
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 197
Likes: 193
From: Doylestown, Pa. USA
Yeah, I thought the same thing. I think the right shock is more or less a follower. It doesn't work against the left shock, mainly there for support. There are dual sided swingarms with only one shock on one side. It's probably bad if the swingarm bushing is worn and two shocks work against each other. There was a study to find out about the Harley wobble and they surmised the two rear shocks weren't set the same, or one was more worn, so they worked against each other when hitting a bump at speed. I had a similar experience in my jeep when one front shock was leaking. I'd hit a bridge joint at highway speeds and I'd get an uncontrollable wobble. Same thing happens if the tire pressure in the front tires are way off. Just had it happen last week with the cold weather. Scary as hell. Pumped them up even, steady as a rock over joints at 75mph.
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 919
Likes: 245
Just so we're clear, I was riding my back up bike, not my Harley at the time. The bike that crashed was an FZ1 and has a mono rear shock. I'm guessing the catching of grip and loosing it from all the gravel (there was a lot) resulted in the front tire coming up and down, thus a 'death wobble'. If it had happened without gravel the suspension would be my primary concern. As it is that bike is now 20 years old and I may have faired a little better with fresher suspension.
For those curious as to the death wobble, here's a pants painting video of it in action:
This guy does a really good job in explaining a lot of motorcycle things, here's what causes a tank slapper/ death wobble
And particularly what causes the Dyna death wobble, starting at 8:22
That video also explains how a Harley engine works and why it feels and sounds different.
For those curious as to the death wobble, here's a pants painting video of it in action:
This guy does a really good job in explaining a lot of motorcycle things, here's what causes a tank slapper/ death wobble
And particularly what causes the Dyna death wobble, starting at 8:22
That video also explains how a Harley engine works and why it feels and sounds different.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 479
Likes: 491
From: Chicago
Had a death wobble on an interstate in AZ changing lanes at about 65 mph from moving over too slowly and catching the potholes running between the lanes. Slowed down and stayed upright but THAT got my attention. Scary stuff.
Last edited by mltdwn; Nov 29, 2025 at 09:43 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 825
Likes: 711
From: N/E Indiana
If you hit Gravel in a Curve or Corner you'll be on your Azz before the Traction Control kicks in. TC compares wheel speed front to rear, when the rear exceeds the front it reduces engine power. Most systems "Stutter" the Ignition to achieve this.
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2025
Posts: 982
Likes: 526
From: USA
On the Touring bikes, especially pree-2009 with only lower mounts, the rubber-mounted engines are essentially mounted directly to the rear swing-arms longitudinally. When the rear tire is loaded laterally, it in effect twists the whole solid block of transmission/engine/swing arm mounts through the motor mounts. The engine twists in the rubber mounts until the rubber can't stretch enough and the rear tire has to slip to unwind the stretched rubber in the tire and engine mounts. At the right speed, the tire goes back and forth at the right rate to go back and forth until the speed or side forces allow the elastic forces to stabilize.
My 2006 had three rubber mounts. There is no upper motor mount to keep the TOP of the engine/transmission lump from twisting laterally. My 2006 went into the wobble enough that I added a frame stabilizer and it helped, but I could always sense the engine/transmission lump wanting to move.
In 2009, HD added a fourth motor mount at the top of the engine. My 2011 was a huge improvement. I could still sense movement in the seat along what is essentially the rear-axle plane, but the handlebars don't move.
All this is on pavement. In the gravel there's much more movement, but at slower speeds there's much more reaction time that allows time to maintain equilibrium. It will still wobble, but not quickly
My 2006 had three rubber mounts. There is no upper motor mount to keep the TOP of the engine/transmission lump from twisting laterally. My 2006 went into the wobble enough that I added a frame stabilizer and it helped, but I could always sense the engine/transmission lump wanting to move.
In 2009, HD added a fourth motor mount at the top of the engine. My 2011 was a huge improvement. I could still sense movement in the seat along what is essentially the rear-axle plane, but the handlebars don't move.
All this is on pavement. In the gravel there's much more movement, but at slower speeds there's much more reaction time that allows time to maintain equilibrium. It will still wobble, but not quickly
Last edited by overtaker; Dec 2, 2025 at 02:24 AM.
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Joe Kucinski
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 414
Likes: 602
From: Florida
Hey n Howdy,
My
Go read this thread on RDRS (https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...confusion.html), My entry on "testing" my 2023 RDS/Traction control system is the last one. This thread started with the question of it is "worth the money" and ended up covering a bunch of the pros and cons. My vote is, it is definitely worth the money. You only pay for it once, it adds a few $ to the payment, and it works for the life of the bike. The $64 question becomes "would I go buy a new bike just to get it, well.......
My test was on asphalt (old, smooth, & faded) but when the tires start sliding.....
I've always tiptoed through or around gravel when I see it. I would consider running the RDRS/TC in rain mode to give it better/quicker control of the rear tire & brakes.
I would be interested in finding out if the system is quick enough to react to gravel, as it's set up for wet/dry roads. I hope your local Mothership has a knowledgeable and trustworthy source for RDRS system performance.
Let us know if you find out what the limits are.
My
Go read this thread on RDRS (https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...confusion.html), My entry on "testing" my 2023 RDS/Traction control system is the last one. This thread started with the question of it is "worth the money" and ended up covering a bunch of the pros and cons. My vote is, it is definitely worth the money. You only pay for it once, it adds a few $ to the payment, and it works for the life of the bike. The $64 question becomes "would I go buy a new bike just to get it, well.......
My test was on asphalt (old, smooth, & faded) but when the tires start sliding.....
I've always tiptoed through or around gravel when I see it. I would consider running the RDRS/TC in rain mode to give it better/quicker control of the rear tire & brakes.
I would be interested in finding out if the system is quick enough to react to gravel, as it's set up for wet/dry roads. I hope your local Mothership has a knowledgeable and trustworthy source for RDRS system performance.
Let us know if you find out what the limits are.
Last edited by JimRunningLizard; Dec 2, 2025 at 07:17 AM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 632
From: NorCal Rocklin
So traction control works only on paved roads. If you ride dirt there is specific bikes that have dirt orientated traction control But since we are talking Harley's here, it should work as advertised on the road. If you go on fire roads, you want to manage traction and keep the bike upright. In situations that when you are hitting gravel on a paved road, traction control will work as it should and you may or may not feel it working at all. I learned when I lost traction in a corner, it takes a split second of decision making to make that correction, you keep holding the throttle because chopping it, panicking, closing the throttle will upset the chassis and throw you off. Even the best riders in the world still make these kinds of mistakes.
To answer your question, if your roads are fire roads then turn of TC because you arent going to be riding fast anyways. If you are on a paved road with rocks and random gravel here and there, then keep it on.
Read up on how to manage traction on a bike and get the new edition of Total Control
To answer your question, if your roads are fire roads then turn of TC because you arent going to be riding fast anyways. If you are on a paved road with rocks and random gravel here and there, then keep it on.
Read up on how to manage traction on a bike and get the new edition of Total Control
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