Advice on close call
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 584
Likes: 2
From: Woodstock, GA
RE: Advice on close call
Practice, practice, practice! Doing a quick stop (some like to call it an emergency stop) is the most important skill you need to master. You need to program your muscle memory to primarily use the front brake for the most efficient stop. Shouldn't have to slide the rear wheel at only 20 MPH. Also practice your quick stops in a turn after you master the straight ahead ones. For these the MSF folks teach you to straighten up the bike first and then apply maximum braking. Glad your incident turned out OK. Keep riding safe!
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,801
Likes: 13
RE: Advice on close call
I agree with all the preceding posts. Sounds like you had a near high side, and if the rear had been stepped out of line a few more degrees than it was, it may Very Well have spit you over the side of your bike.
It is HARD to get used to, but practice braking with your toes only. In other words, don't use the center or ball of your foot on the brake lever, like you would your car. By only using your toes, you cannot put as much pressure on the rear pedal, and you have less of a chance of immediately locking it up.
It is HARD to get used to, but practice braking with your toes only. In other words, don't use the center or ball of your foot on the brake lever, like you would your car. By only using your toes, you cannot put as much pressure on the rear pedal, and you have less of a chance of immediately locking it up.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 0
From: Hoboken, New Jersey
RE: Advice on close call
Just practice......when you come to a red light....lock up the rear, and let it slide out just a bit, and then let off the brake, but in this case you will be ready for the bike to resume tracking normally. Just always remember that when you need to stop like NOW....dont be shy with the front brakes, but always use both front and rear in a panic stop.
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
RE: Advice on close call
I've done a lot of city riding and that is good advice about covering the breaks and clutch whenever someone is getting ready to turn or come out into or crossing your lane. Anticipation is the key. And don't be afraid to use the horn as a warning. Always assume they don't see you and that they may just come out right in front of you. Cutting the reaction time can make all the difference. Practice stopping an avoidance manouvering is a must too.
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 251
Likes: 1
From:
RE: Advice on close call
Lots of good advice - I want to echo the practice part - you shouldn't have had to lock up the rear tire to stop in time. Here in Japan, they make you ride at 40kmh (24mph) and then emergency brake. You have to stop the bike in less than 4 meters - about 13 feet. You have to practice it again and again and then do it for the test to get your license. Considering the average road speed limit here is between 40 and 60kmh, it's a good speed to practice at but practicing at a higher speed is good too.
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 121
From: Northern Illinois
RE: Advice on close call
Pretty hard to high side at 20 mph, sounds like you were getting fairly close to low siding it. You did good to make it through the situation. We're glad for you. Too many people getting hurt lately.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 9,427
Likes: 1
From: Dry Ridge, Ky.
RE: Advice on close call
ORIGINAL: CSI Topeka
I agree with all the preceding posts. Sounds like you had a near high side, and if the rear had been stepped out of line a few more degrees than it was, it may Very Well have spit you over the side of your bike.
It is HARD to get used to, but practice braking with your toes only. In other words, don't use the center or ball of your foot on the brake lever, like you would your car. By only using your toes, you cannot put as much pressure on the rear pedal, and you have less of a chance of immediately locking it up.
I agree with all the preceding posts. Sounds like you had a near high side, and if the rear had been stepped out of line a few more degrees than it was, it may Very Well have spit you over the side of your bike.
It is HARD to get used to, but practice braking with your toes only. In other words, don't use the center or ball of your foot on the brake lever, like you would your car. By only using your toes, you cannot put as much pressure on the rear pedal, and you have less of a chance of immediately locking it up.
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RE: Advice on close call
This reveals one of my 'complaints' with HD brakes-the rear is too big, therefore too easy to lock up. The front, on the other hand, takes a big handful to lock it up. Most HD accident stories I've heard start out with-I was going along when..(fill in the blank) and I had to hit the brakes. The rear locked up and I slid....(pick a hazard). It is much harder to modulate your foot particularly in a panic situation than your hand. That is why all the metrics have such resposive front brakes and small rear brakes. Yes, that is the classic hi-side situation. Watch motorcycle road racing and you will see it in it's nastiest form. The momentum of the vehicle is transfered to the body of the rider with a sling shot effect.
Practice, practice, practice braking and using the front to it's maximum effectiveness.
Practice, practice, practice braking and using the front to it's maximum effectiveness.
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 614
Likes: 2
From: Indiana, USA
RE: Advice on close call
According to the MSF, you should never release the rear brake in the event of a skid. If your front tire skids, you're supposed to release the brakeand reapply it appropriately. In my opinion, you should have grabbed more front brake to begin with. Now, I didn't check what bike you ride, but I've personally witnessed a Sportster stop from 20mph in about 6 feet. No joke. However, this was the Roadster, which means it has 2 front disc brakes instead of the usual single disc. If you've ever ridden a Sportster, you can tell the rear brake is almost totally useless as far as stopping power. Thus, the front brakes are doing most of the work... thus, grab more front.
EDIT: I'd like to add that if you were in the middle of a turn, you should straighten the bike completely up first before braking to reduce the possibilities of a slide. Also, if you release the rear like you did, which is why they tell you not to release it, the rear tire will try and line up with the front tire due to physics and it will create a "snap" effect. I've done what you did many times on bicycles when I used to ride them off-road and on-road and it'll do that every time if you've got the rear sliding. However, you should release the front brake because if that's sliding you will go down, so you want to release so that it keeps rolling instead of sliding, and then reapply it properly before you go down.
EDIT: I'd like to add that if you were in the middle of a turn, you should straighten the bike completely up first before braking to reduce the possibilities of a slide. Also, if you release the rear like you did, which is why they tell you not to release it, the rear tire will try and line up with the front tire due to physics and it will create a "snap" effect. I've done what you did many times on bicycles when I used to ride them off-road and on-road and it'll do that every time if you've got the rear sliding. However, you should release the front brake because if that's sliding you will go down, so you want to release so that it keeps rolling instead of sliding, and then reapply it properly before you go down.