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Causes of this problem are usually cold weather/thick oil in primary, clutch not adjusted as firm as it should be. Ever notice you have more freeplay in the lever when it's hot? Set to the minimum side when cold helps, a lot. Other cause is primary chain too tight causing excess friction through the basket trying to turn the input shaft . Nothing to do with the tranny if the only problem is you can't nail neutral. In all cases it's rotational pressure put on the trans primary shaft causing unnecessary force on the shifter lever to find neutral. It just shoots by it. Hope I explained it , more or less. Ron
I second dynamike74's answer. I had problems finding neutral until I had my hot and cold idle adjusted. Now that I idle at 1000 rpm it pops right into neutral almost every time.
I had that problem (with 18,000 miles on the bike) but after I changed to Synthetic (Amsoil Severe Gear in the tranny) the problem went away. I see from above that some others have not had the same result with Synthetics but it really worked well for me.
I second dynamike74's answer. I had problems finding neutral until I had my hot and cold idle adjusted. Now that I idle at 1000 rpm it pops right into neutral almost every time.
lone, My 06 St Bod is the easiest bike I've had to find N. It's an 08 and under warranty. I'd take it in before you have trouble and have to trailer it in.
PS Outlaw Josey Wales is my favorite movie. I be lookin for a horse.
Do the easiest thing first. With the bike at room temperature, adjust freeplay in clutch cable. Pull up slightly on the cable housing as you operate the clutch lever a few times, just enough to take up the slack in the cable. You can feel when you are pulling up too hard... it would feel like you are starting to stretch the cable and operate the clutch. You don't want that hard. Just enough to take up the slack. Then, let go of the clutch lever while continuing to gently hold the slack out of the cable, measure the distance between the cable housing ferrule and the clutch lever bracket. Should be a gap between 1/16" and 1/8". If too large, adjustment is under the cable boot by the frame downtube.
If not enough adjustment is left, then adjust freeplay in the clutch itself. This requires taking off the derby cover and following the manual.
Thanks for all the answers - I think the one above will try first, as I noticed today while riding that with clutch pulled all the way in that when I let off the brake at a stop the bike wanted to creep forward (level terrain) slightly, so I'm thinking cable might be slightly out of adjustment from when I replaced my bars few weeks ago. Easiest to hardest is the way to go for sure, so will check the cable tonight/tomorrow when I have a chance. Again, thanks for all the advice/suggestions, keep it coming, as we all can learn from all the excellent tips and experience out there.
Watie
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My bikes are a little older (03 and 04), but I had similar problems when they were new. It did not improve until I installed an automatic primary chain tensioner. (I don't know if your bike has one or not, but if it does not, you might try one if all else fails.) I installed th Hayden M6 tensionerand the shifting to neutral improved significantly. I doubt that changing the tranny fluid to synthetic will make any difference. Another thing that I've learned is that shifting into neutral while the bike is still rolling slowly is a lot easier than doing it when you're stopped.
I believe the '08's have auto-primary tensioner. +1 on doing it while rolling, but still going to give the clutch cable a look on its adjustment before I try anything else. I installed new bars several weeks ago, during which time had to install new clutch cable, so maybe my adjustment from a few weeks ago is slightly out now that cable has 'broken' in a bit. We do cable tension checks on blackhawk helicopter tail rotor cables after a disassembly/reassembly, so wouldn't surprise me to find mine has 'broken' in a bit as well on my clutch. You know - helicopters and motorcycles are pretty much the same thing.
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