Anyone try this for transporting?
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 22
From: Delaware
Hey. What if I got some solid steel tube and made something like this?
http://www.etrailer.com/pc-CCHE~C235.htm
I could then get some kind of thick aluminum or steel diamond plate and bolt to it. It will extend the bed/tailgate. and the carrier I will be making will go into the reciever and bear the brunt of the weight to take it off the tailgate. With a steel plate or whatever bolted to it, it should support the loading ramps.
http://www.etrailer.com/pc-CCHE~C235.htm
I could then get some kind of thick aluminum or steel diamond plate and bolt to it. It will extend the bed/tailgate. and the carrier I will be making will go into the reciever and bear the brunt of the weight to take it off the tailgate. With a steel plate or whatever bolted to it, it should support the loading ramps.
Last edited by brihvac; Aug 16, 2008 at 07:17 AM.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 22
From: Delaware
LOL
Its the old lady, not me.
Also, you dont DRIVE a motorcycle, you RIDE it.
Had to get my little dig in LOL, only messin with you
I dont want to be dragging a trailer especially through traffic. I want to be able to just load it and be done. If I take numerous bikes I take my big enclosed trailer.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,884
Likes: 75
From: Goldsboro, NC
Yea, crash,, there has to be one in every post I guess,,
I like the idea of the channel Iron, Or aluminum if you can find a piece, and afford it! LOL To hold the channel in I would just drill TWO holes, one in the front and one in the rear, Or only one in the front, and run a cable down through the rear to your bumper between the gate and the bed floor? The channel would keep any of the weight off your gate, I am sure it would hold the bikes rear weight without pushing on the tailgate
Really you wouldn't HAVE to bolt it in at all But it could slide, maybe just long 1/2" diameter bolts though the floor, (say 6" long) Like pins, without having to crawl under and put nuts or washers on them. (It would just keep it from sliding around)I doubt they would bounce out, (You could even weld them into the channel,) and when you put it in the truck line the "Pins" up, and drop it in.
I like the idea of the channel Iron, Or aluminum if you can find a piece, and afford it! LOL To hold the channel in I would just drill TWO holes, one in the front and one in the rear, Or only one in the front, and run a cable down through the rear to your bumper between the gate and the bed floor? The channel would keep any of the weight off your gate, I am sure it would hold the bikes rear weight without pushing on the tailgate
Really you wouldn't HAVE to bolt it in at all But it could slide, maybe just long 1/2" diameter bolts though the floor, (say 6" long) Like pins, without having to crawl under and put nuts or washers on them. (It would just keep it from sliding around)I doubt they would bounce out, (You could even weld them into the channel,) and when you put it in the truck line the "Pins" up, and drop it in.
Last edited by JimTJr; Aug 16, 2008 at 08:08 AM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,642
Likes: 6
From: Forest Lake, Mn
I would have been to Sam Blooms already, looking for a scrap piece of thick wall aluminum channel.
I am in with Jim on this one. And to prevent that having to crawl under the truck (if you are going to use this set up often) either put blind hole nuts in the holes, or JB weld flange nuts to botttom of box.
It will require some assistance to load and unload, unless you are a gorilla.
A) Used 7' aluminum channel, $50
B) Used snowmobile trailer, $350
C) Jiffy, $1200
D) Losing your scoot off the back, Priceless (as in how frickin' much will that cost to fix )
IF I definitely was going to go this way, it would be done in my shop, where I could have control over the process. See 'D' above. I use a snowmobile trailer with Pingel wheel chocks and block up the frames.
I am in with Jim on this one. And to prevent that having to crawl under the truck (if you are going to use this set up often) either put blind hole nuts in the holes, or JB weld flange nuts to botttom of box.
It will require some assistance to load and unload, unless you are a gorilla.
A) Used 7' aluminum channel, $50
B) Used snowmobile trailer, $350
C) Jiffy, $1200
D) Losing your scoot off the back, Priceless (as in how frickin' much will that cost to fix
)IF I definitely was going to go this way, it would be done in my shop, where I could have control over the process. See 'D' above. I use a snowmobile trailer with Pingel wheel chocks and block up the frames.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 22
From: Delaware
I would have been to Sam Blooms already, looking for a scrap piece of thick wall aluminum channel.
I am in with Jim on this one. And to prevent that having to crawl under the truck (if you are going to use this set up often) either put blind hole nuts in the holes, or JB weld flange nuts to botttom of box.
It will require some assistance to load and unload, unless you are a gorilla.
A) Used 7' aluminum channel, $50
B) Used snowmobile trailer, $350
C) Jiffy, $1200
D) Losing your scoot off the back, Priceless (as in how frickin' much will that cost to fix )
IF I definitely was going to go this way, it would be done in my shop, where I could have control over the process. See 'D' above. I use a snowmobile trailer with Pingel wheel chocks and block up the frames.
I am in with Jim on this one. And to prevent that having to crawl under the truck (if you are going to use this set up often) either put blind hole nuts in the holes, or JB weld flange nuts to botttom of box.
It will require some assistance to load and unload, unless you are a gorilla.
A) Used 7' aluminum channel, $50
B) Used snowmobile trailer, $350
C) Jiffy, $1200
D) Losing your scoot off the back, Priceless (as in how frickin' much will that cost to fix
)IF I definitely was going to go this way, it would be done in my shop, where I could have control over the process. See 'D' above. I use a snowmobile trailer with Pingel wheel chocks and block up the frames.
I have no problem dropping a grand on the lift. I want conveniance and to be safe and no trailerIm having trouble visioning what you guys are talking about with the holes in the bed. I dont want to have to climb under the truck and have been tring to figure how I can mount something without doing that. Heres what I was thinking. Getting a fairly thick piece of diamond plate about 4' wide and long enough to hang off the end of the tailgate about a foot or so, and also be long enough to sit inside the bed some. I was going to have my welder buddy weld something like this
http://www.etrailer.com/pc-CCHE~C235.htm
You could "frame" out the plate in metal or leave it. Bolt the plate onto the piece that comes up and runs out from the tailgate. Now, this is my dilema, I think the other end of the plate should somehow be bolted or pinned inside the bed. Reason I say this is because when you put the loading ramps on to load the bike all the weight will be on the rear end of the plate. I think it will be pulling up real hard on the bed side and should be pinned or bolted down. Or, do you think it will be ok just bolted onto the new welded brace?
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 2
From: " Roll Tide Country "
I suggest you ride the bike! Seems you are quite large in the trailer dept. l.ray
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Joe Kucinski
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 12,653
Likes: 18
From: Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
I'd want a class IV hitch for that. Standard class III (normal dealer installed hitches) isn't going to cut it.
Look here:
http://hitches4less.com/trailer-hitch-classes.html
Look here:
http://hitches4less.com/trailer-hitch-classes.html