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TORX Problems??? Solution

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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 08:37 AM
  #1  
Da Gumpmeister's Avatar
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Default TORX Problems??? Solution

Again this morning, there is a post 'complaining' (justifiably so) about the torx head bolts on the primary covers, and elsewhere.
IF you do your own maintenance or some wrenching on your scoot, get yourself one of these. Then go to NAPA, O'Reilly's, Snap On, where ever, and buy a set of torx bits, to use with it. Buy decent ones tho, cheap ones snap off.
This is especially true, if you use blue Loctite on your screws and bolts. Also, steel bolts in aluminum, causes galvanic corrosion, read that, corrodes/welds the bolts in place.(Spark plugs do this, too. So use anti-seize on them when installing)
It will prevent (provided you use it correctly) gnawing up your bolt heads.
You can also get allen head bits, and use regular sockets with it.
Bought my first one in 1971. Phillips head bolts/screws on a 450 Honda, ONLY way to get them loose without wrecking screw heads.

http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup...Vintage&page=1

Get one, and save a lot of time, headaches, and your sanity.
 
Old Sep 6, 2008 | 08:40 AM
  #2  
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I don't have that brand but I've had a Craftsman like that for years. Good tip, they really do work.
 
Old Sep 6, 2008 | 08:51 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by Da Gumpmeister
Also, steel bolts in aluminum, causes galvanic corrosion, read that, corrodes/welds the bolts in place.(Spark plugs do this, too. So use anti-seize on them when installing)
It will prevent (provided you use it correctly) gnawing up your bolt heads.
+1 on everything you said, but I go one better on the anti-seize. I use an electrically conductive anti-seize. Think about it... the only path to ground (which is necessary to complete the circuit) when your plug fires is through the threaded shell of the plug. If it is gunked up with conventional compound, it stands to reason that the spark will be weaker. The beneficial effect may be all in my head, but I feel better doing it.
http://www.idealindustries.com/produ...ies/noalox.jsp
 
Old Sep 6, 2008 | 09:06 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by Da Gumpmeister
Again this morning, there is a post 'complaining' (justifiably so) about the torx head bolts on the primary covers,
HE-HEH, that be my thread?!? I forgot to mention that it was the threads that stripped, not the bolt head. And I suspect after many years of wrenching, it was pre-stripped by the bozo who installed the custom primary cover, and also underfilled the oil in there.

Good advice on the tools, I borrow my neighbours torq wrench when I need one (he has 3, he's a diesel mechanic), and I do own a very good set of both torx & allan key fittings for my personal rachet set. Everyone who wrenches should try to use the right tools.

Wanna keep that chrome screw looking nice behind your seat?!? Use the right type & size screwdriver
 
Old Sep 6, 2008 | 09:08 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by Mr. Lucky
+1 on everything you said, but I go one better on the anti-seize. I use an electrically conductive anti-seize. Think about it... the only path to ground (which is necessary to complete the circuit) when your plug fires is through the threaded shell of the plug. If it is gunked up with conventional compound, it stands to reason that the spark will be weaker. The beneficial effect may be all in my head, but I feel better doing it.
http://www.idealindustries.com/produ...ies/noalox.jsp
The plug fires by the current jumping the gap to complete the circuit. You could put peanut butter on the threads won't make any difference.
 
Old Sep 6, 2008 | 09:18 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by KBFXDLI
The plug fires by the current jumping the gap to complete the circuit. You could put peanut butter on the threads won't make any difference.

HUH??

Your missing one important thing. The spark "jumps" to ground. The outer electrode is part of the plug threads. It is the ground when connected securley to the head.. You dont want excessive resistance anywhere in the circuit, even on the ground side. Your peanut butter would be a bad idea, though it may still run fine.
 

Last edited by HGM; Sep 6, 2008 at 09:30 AM.
Old Sep 6, 2008 | 09:43 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by JBaker421
I don't have that brand but I've had a Craftsman like that for years. Good tip, they really do work.
I like the seat cover in your sig pic!
 
Old Sep 6, 2008 | 09:44 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by KBFXDLI
The plug fires by the current jumping the gap to complete the circuit. You could put peanut butter on the threads won't make any difference.
Your thinking is flawed. In order to have DC current flow, you must have a path to ground. The plug threads in contact with the cylinder head ARE that ground. Anthing that creates resistance in the ground return will result in lower current flow (R = E/I, thus I = E/R). As a 40 year FCC Extra-class licensee and MSEE, I think I understand the basics of electricity lol.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 10:02 AM
  #9  
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Peanut butter sammiches all around, then!
 
Old Sep 6, 2008 | 10:07 AM
  #10  
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Yup, an impact driver is just about the most important tool anyone who works on motorcycles ( or anything that uses steel bolts going into aluminum ) could own. I suppose people who have never used one would consider it sort like a hammer operated impact wrench, but that isn't the case. An impact driver works in an entirely different way.

Torx head bolts, I hate 'em, simple as that. IMO the wrenches and head sockets just aren't even close to large enough , consistent with the thread size of the bolt and the required torque. Get one really stuck in aluminum, and you WILL wind up drilling off the head to remove the part, impact driver or not. Used to run into this just about every day on GM automatic transmissions. I'll bet I went through 10 torx 40 bits monthly at times, name your brand, I've used 'em all. They break.

Anti seize and spark plugs. Most people tend to use way too much. It'll foul a plug. Don't glop it all over with your finger, use a brush, and put on a really light coating. It should look about like you put on a very light coat of aluminum spray paint.

Another point about anti seize. Most torque specs are figured out with an oiled bolt, and anti seize reduces the thread friction a lot. I've seen people literally stretch head bolts until they broke that were anti seized, and never come close to the torque spec.
 



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