first 1000 miles. need advice
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 120
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first 1000 miles. need advice
I got my first taste of riding earlier today, had a blast. I got some quick lessons from my uncle who owns 4 bikes and took the msf course. Im going to be finishing restoring my bike this week. I have a few questions before I start riding full time.
I hear that its important to "break in" a bike with ease, to go gentle on it or somethin at first. How true is this and what does it include? what should and should not do?
I plan on sticking with my neighborhood streets at first, but what would you recommend doing for on gaining experience, confidence and sharpening your skills when you first start riding? any good things to practice besides just riding around normal?
any other general advice on clutch control, braking, traffic, w/e, let me know. thank you.
I hear that its important to "break in" a bike with ease, to go gentle on it or somethin at first. How true is this and what does it include? what should and should not do?
I plan on sticking with my neighborhood streets at first, but what would you recommend doing for on gaining experience, confidence and sharpening your skills when you first start riding? any good things to practice besides just riding around normal?
any other general advice on clutch control, braking, traffic, w/e, let me know. thank you.
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 727
Likes: 0
From: A Boston Yankee in Surrey, England
Welcome to the forum and to riding! You'll never look back.
Hit the search function. The questions you've asked are pretty common and there are hundreds of threads with good info for you already on the forum somewhere.
The first thing I would say is to take a good, full-on riding course. There seems to be a general feeling that riding a bike is as easy as just jumping on, sticking to local roads for while, and off you go. But people don't do that with cars. They take a proper training course to learn how to do it properly. Treat your bike the same way.
And have a great time!
Hit the search function. The questions you've asked are pretty common and there are hundreds of threads with good info for you already on the forum somewhere.
The first thing I would say is to take a good, full-on riding course. There seems to be a general feeling that riding a bike is as easy as just jumping on, sticking to local roads for while, and off you go. But people don't do that with cars. They take a proper training course to learn how to do it properly. Treat your bike the same way.
And have a great time!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 6,336
Likes: 67
From: SW Minnesota
If by "Breaking in," you're talking about an overhauled engine, riding it too easily at first start up may be the worst thing you can do to get the rings to seat. Here's ring seating proceedure from one of the gurus of the bike world, Joe Minton, who writes monthly in Amercan Rider.
What you want to do is get in a gear where it "pulls hard" without revving too quickly. From low throttle, but fast enough that you are not lugging, you accelerate wide open to about about 2/3 redline, roll off the throttle, let the engine slow down, and do it over and over again ten times.
Here's his actual directions, from American Rider. Note these are for a new rebuild, where the engine has not yet been run. Most, if not all, new bike engines have already been "run-in" at the factory.
1) Do not start the engine until you are ready to ride the bike.
2) After starting, quickly get out on the road and into third gear.
3) Accelerate at full throttle from 30 to 60 mph in third gear.
4) Close the throttle and coast back to 30 mph.
5) Repeat this full throttle/coast procedure a total of 10 times.
6) The rings are now seated and you can ride normally.
My understanding is what the above method does is creates high cylinder pressure, expanding the new rings tight against the bore, instantly wearing down the high spots and seating the rings. Rolling off the throttle creates vacumn which sucks oil up onto the bore, carrying off the shavings, which will end up in your oil filter. Breaking an engine in too easily can cause the glaze to build up in the "low spots" and rings may never seat properly.
What you want to do is get in a gear where it "pulls hard" without revving too quickly. From low throttle, but fast enough that you are not lugging, you accelerate wide open to about about 2/3 redline, roll off the throttle, let the engine slow down, and do it over and over again ten times.
Here's his actual directions, from American Rider. Note these are for a new rebuild, where the engine has not yet been run. Most, if not all, new bike engines have already been "run-in" at the factory.
1) Do not start the engine until you are ready to ride the bike.
2) After starting, quickly get out on the road and into third gear.
3) Accelerate at full throttle from 30 to 60 mph in third gear.
4) Close the throttle and coast back to 30 mph.
5) Repeat this full throttle/coast procedure a total of 10 times.
6) The rings are now seated and you can ride normally.
My understanding is what the above method does is creates high cylinder pressure, expanding the new rings tight against the bore, instantly wearing down the high spots and seating the rings. Rolling off the throttle creates vacumn which sucks oil up onto the bore, carrying off the shavings, which will end up in your oil filter. Breaking an engine in too easily can cause the glaze to build up in the "low spots" and rings may never seat properly.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,530
Likes: 607
From: Raleigh NC
Congrats on thaking the MSF class. Very Smart move, you got to start with a "clean slate" and no bad habits. As far as "clutch control, braking, swerving" go... you should have the course material. Go find yourself an empty parking lot and practice, practice,PRACTICE! Nothing will prepare you for the bone headed drivers (an motorcycle riders too) but the more at ease YOU are with your bike... the better you'll handle what the road throws at you.
Pick up a copy of "Ride Like a Pro" video, set up a couse like they show you, and do those excersizes.
Next year try the MSF-ERC class.... it goes over the same stuff as the BRC, but it's one day, and you're on your own bike. It will further sharpen those skills
As far as break in ? see reply #3
good luck, and welcome to the most fun you can have in public
Pick up a copy of "Ride Like a Pro" video, set up a couse like they show you, and do those excersizes.
Next year try the MSF-ERC class.... it goes over the same stuff as the BRC, but it's one day, and you're on your own bike. It will further sharpen those skills
As far as break in ? see reply #3
good luck, and welcome to the most fun you can have in public
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 341
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, WV
as Skootch said, get the "ride like a pro" video. Good stuff and it will greatly increase your confidence and skill. When I started riding I got that video first and practiced THEN took the MSF course....so I was kinda backwards.
Honestly after the video, taking the MSF course was pretty pointless, I was surprised at the things that WEREN"T taught in class (i.e. trail braking while in the friction zone).
Congratulations, be safe and have fun!
Honestly after the video, taking the MSF course was pretty pointless, I was surprised at the things that WEREN"T taught in class (i.e. trail braking while in the friction zone).
Congratulations, be safe and have fun!
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
From: Amelia, Virginia
Definately MSF course and Ride Like A Pro DVD. Practice weekly so that the techniques become second nature and then continue to practice weekly to keep the skills as they are parishable. I hit a parking lot at least once a week for about 10 to 15 minutes to keep my skills sharp. Only practicing at the beginning of the season is not enough and you will loose what you learned. It will make your riding experience way better than average.
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 640
Likes: 13
From: Hickory, NC area
The first bike I ever had came with some decent advice from an old timer. He said two things as I prepared to head off. First, if you ever think you've tamed the tiger get off the bike and sell it - you're just asking to die. Second, if you want to go fast, get out on the highway - you come up too fast on cages in the city and you're just askin to get hurt.
My only addition after my years on the bike is to keep a safe following distance. It really does no good to tailgate a cage - it limits your sight of the road, obstacles, etc and generally gets you wherever you are going no faster than if you drop back a bit and give yourself some room.
Congrat's on te bike - have a ton of fun.
My only addition after my years on the bike is to keep a safe following distance. It really does no good to tailgate a cage - it limits your sight of the road, obstacles, etc and generally gets you wherever you are going no faster than if you drop back a bit and give yourself some room.
Congrat's on te bike - have a ton of fun.
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Big Kahuna HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 23,881
Likes: 34
From: USA
My advice for a new rider:
1. take your time and practice, practice, practice especially in parking lots.
2. no 2 up until you have at least 1000 miles in and feel confident in your ability
3. start with short rides and go progressively longer if that feels better.
4. re-read your msf course materials until you know them
5. Never feel like you need to keep up with someone elses level of riding..go at your own pace
Breaking in a new bike:
1. follow the owners manual recommendation for speed/revs vs miles
2. I change oil at 100, 500, 1000 miles
3. if you can heat cycle your engine (short 15-20 minute rides followed by complete cool down) for 2-300 miles it is a good idea. But not a must.
4. I break in the bike for 2000-2500 miles before I will redline it.
Good luck.......ride safe always. BTW, I do recommend you wear a quality helmet.
1. take your time and practice, practice, practice especially in parking lots.
2. no 2 up until you have at least 1000 miles in and feel confident in your ability
3. start with short rides and go progressively longer if that feels better.
4. re-read your msf course materials until you know them
5. Never feel like you need to keep up with someone elses level of riding..go at your own pace
Breaking in a new bike:
1. follow the owners manual recommendation for speed/revs vs miles
2. I change oil at 100, 500, 1000 miles
3. if you can heat cycle your engine (short 15-20 minute rides followed by complete cool down) for 2-300 miles it is a good idea. But not a must.
4. I break in the bike for 2000-2500 miles before I will redline it.
Good luck.......ride safe always. BTW, I do recommend you wear a quality helmet.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,642
Likes: 6
From: Forest Lake, Mn
Guys, he ALREADY took the course.
Welkum to the Zoo, Roadkill.
ALL good advice so far.
The one thing I'd really like to add, high speed PANIC stops. When you are on a nice. long stretch of open hiway, NO traffic around, pretend someone pulled out, or something fell off an imaginery truck. Practice panic stopping, so you learn the point where your brakes begin to lock up. Learn to stop as fast as humanly possible, and still maintain full control.
The time to realize you are not sure, is NOT when that chunk of plywood falls off the truck in front of you, or the cage pulls out.
Always give yourself plenty of maneuvering room/space. Most ppl run out of time, long B4 they run out of ideas.
For your 'fresh' motor, go back, and memorize MnPGR's post. That's exactly what I tell ppl when they head out with a 'brand new' rebuild.
I also suggest they use dino oil, for break in. Not as 'slickery' as synthetic, and will help with the 'break in' and to seat the rings.
Also, as KB, said, change at 100 or so, 500 or so, and 1000 or so. If ALL looks and runs good, then you can switch over to syn, if you like.
What type motor do you have? If shovel, or older, I recommend 50w unless it is going to be over 95* consistently, then 60w.
Again, Welkum, ride SAFE, and keep on postin'. Glad you're here.
Welkum to the Zoo, Roadkill.
ALL good advice so far.
The one thing I'd really like to add, high speed PANIC stops. When you are on a nice. long stretch of open hiway, NO traffic around, pretend someone pulled out, or something fell off an imaginery truck. Practice panic stopping, so you learn the point where your brakes begin to lock up. Learn to stop as fast as humanly possible, and still maintain full control.
The time to realize you are not sure, is NOT when that chunk of plywood falls off the truck in front of you, or the cage pulls out.
Always give yourself plenty of maneuvering room/space. Most ppl run out of time, long B4 they run out of ideas.
For your 'fresh' motor, go back, and memorize MnPGR's post. That's exactly what I tell ppl when they head out with a 'brand new' rebuild.
I also suggest they use dino oil, for break in. Not as 'slickery' as synthetic, and will help with the 'break in' and to seat the rings.
Also, as KB, said, change at 100 or so, 500 or so, and 1000 or so. If ALL looks and runs good, then you can switch over to syn, if you like.
What type motor do you have? If shovel, or older, I recommend 50w unless it is going to be over 95* consistently, then 60w.
Again, Welkum, ride SAFE, and keep on postin'. Glad you're here.
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 3
From: Bel Air Md
Safety issues are #1, get good feathering the clutch for corners and uphill starts, learn how to countersteer, too fast in a corner and it can save your butt. Get used to using both brakes all the time so it is second nature when you need it, 70% of stopping power comes from the front brake. The only exception is slow corners or if you have to stop with the handlebars turned, which you should avoid, using the front brake in these situations can pull the bike right to the ground. Have fun and take a course if you can.