Greasing Brake Pads
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,906
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From: SE Louisiana
Greasing Brake Pads
I recently acquired the Fix My Hog (Softail) and have watched it closely a couple of times -- IMO, well worth the money, but I do have a couple of observations regarding specific content...
Having just recently changed the brake pads on my bike, I watched that segment closely. The HD manual makes no mention of the use of lubrication or antiseize in that operation. However, the FMH video specifically recommends applying a water-proof grease to body of caliper bolts and pad pins, and antiseize to threads. Based on my limited knowledge of materials and mechanics, that seems to make sense.
I did a bit of research and found on HD sells (on-line) little packets of Dow Corning Moly 44 as "brake pin grease" (#94674-99, IMO rather pricey). I checked with the parts guy at the local dealership and was advised that that part number is not stocked, perhaps I could get it from the shop guys. It was a slow day all around, so I wandered back to the shop counter and asked about the grease. The tech confirmed that he always greased and antiseized the caliper bolts and pad pins, and added that he also always applied a coating of grease to the backs of the pads -- so theres no squeaking from the piston contacting the pad. Is that common practice out there?
Having just recently changed the brake pads on my bike, I watched that segment closely. The HD manual makes no mention of the use of lubrication or antiseize in that operation. However, the FMH video specifically recommends applying a water-proof grease to body of caliper bolts and pad pins, and antiseize to threads. Based on my limited knowledge of materials and mechanics, that seems to make sense.
I did a bit of research and found on HD sells (on-line) little packets of Dow Corning Moly 44 as "brake pin grease" (#94674-99, IMO rather pricey). I checked with the parts guy at the local dealership and was advised that that part number is not stocked, perhaps I could get it from the shop guys. It was a slow day all around, so I wandered back to the shop counter and asked about the grease. The tech confirmed that he always greased and antiseized the caliper bolts and pad pins, and added that he also always applied a coating of grease to the backs of the pads -- so theres no squeaking from the piston contacting the pad. Is that common practice out there?
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,116
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From: Bella Vista, AR
People do the same trick on brake pads for cages also. The reason why it works is it stops the pad from vibrating (this is caused by variations and runout in the rotors) and making the harmonic noise under light braking. If you ever had a car that had squeaky brakes the normally stop under hard braking.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,642
Likes: 6
From: Forest Lake, Mn
Anti-seize on threads and pins. Peshally spark plug threads (steel in alumimummmmm)
I have that brake antisqueal compound. It's yellow, and ya put it on the back side of the pads. Has a brush in the can, just like anitseize, except it doesn't 'spread' like anit-seize. Ever notice how anti-seize GROWS once ya git it on your hands, or a tool?
Chit will be ebereee-where. 
Another GREAT product for the pins, is liquid graphite. Powdered graphite, mixed with isopropyl alcohol. You brush it on, alcohol evaps qwik, leaving a coat of powdered graphite, behind. It's dry, so dirt, dust, etc, won't stick to it like grease or anti-seize. This stuff works superb if you use stainless bolts and nuts.
Also, if you believe you are going thru brake pads WAY TOO FAST, jus' smear some anti-seize on the pads, too. They LAST FOREVER when ya do that. Well, they last til ya pile the scoot up.............which will be REAL fast.
I have that brake antisqueal compound. It's yellow, and ya put it on the back side of the pads. Has a brush in the can, just like anitseize, except it doesn't 'spread' like anit-seize. Ever notice how anti-seize GROWS once ya git it on your hands, or a tool?
Chit will be ebereee-where. Another GREAT product for the pins, is liquid graphite. Powdered graphite, mixed with isopropyl alcohol. You brush it on, alcohol evaps qwik, leaving a coat of powdered graphite, behind. It's dry, so dirt, dust, etc, won't stick to it like grease or anti-seize. This stuff works superb if you use stainless bolts and nuts.
Also, if you believe you are going thru brake pads WAY TOO FAST, jus' smear some anti-seize on the pads, too. They LAST FOREVER when ya do that. Well, they last til ya pile the scoot up.............which will be REAL fast.
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Ultimate HDF Member
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From: Republic of Texas
Just in case you took Gump serious do not put anti-seize or any lube on the contact side of any pads that you might want to rub on a rotor to help you cease traveling in any direction. Friction can be our friend sometimes. Grease the back of the pads with your choice of brake lube. Anti-seize anything you might want to remove again. Blue loctite anything you want to keep. Red loctite anything you have no plans of ever removing or you need to twist the head off of so you can practice your drilling and tapping skills. Most disc pads come with instructions on greasing and common sense applies to anti-seize.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,642
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From: Forest Lake, Mn
Just in case you took Gump serious do not put anti-seize or any lube on the contact side of any pads that you might want to rub on a rotor to help you cease traveling in any direction. Friction can be our friend sometimes. Grease the back of the pads with your choice of brake lube. Anti-seize anything you might want to remove again. Blue loctite anything you want to keep. Red loctite anything you have no plans of ever removing or you need to twist the head off of so you can practice your drilling and tapping skills. Most disc pads come with instructions on greasing and common sense applies to anti-seize.
Unforunately, you are RIGHT. Some MAY take that seriously. IT's A joke, folks. KEEP your pads and rotors SPOTLESS.
One more tip, if you do develop that slow speed squeak/squeal jus' before ya stop, raise the scoot off the ground jus' a bit. Start spinning the wheel. Whilst it is turning, spray CRC brake cleaner (or your fav brand) where the rotor meets the pad. The rotor will carry the cleaner into the pad/rotor contact area, and clean out the brake dust that's causing the squeak or squeal.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 7,476
Likes: 5
From: Republic of Texas
I had forgot about brake clean on the rotor to help stop little annoying brake squeals and squeaks. That is why it is always better to have someone looking over your shoulder drinking all of your beer while you wrench on your bike. In their relaxed , layed back and mellow mood they always spot the overlooked and not sometimes remembered easy fixes while informing you that your neighbors bubble butted girlfriend is weeding her flower bed in her daisy dukes. Which you can't see because the bike is between you and her .
Darnt, OAB, ya'll jus' gotta ruin the 'fun'.
Unforunately, you are RIGHT. Some MAY take that seriously. IT's A joke, folks. KEEP your pads and rotors SPOTLESS.
One more tip, if you do develop that slow speed squeak/squeal jus' before ya stop, raise the scoot off the ground jus' a bit. Start spinning the wheel. Whilst it is turning, spray CRC brake cleaner (or your fav brand) where the rotor meets the pad. The rotor will carry the cleaner into the pad/rotor contact area, and clean out the brake dust that's causing the squeak or squeal.
Unforunately, you are RIGHT. Some MAY take that seriously. IT's A joke, folks. KEEP your pads and rotors SPOTLESS.
One more tip, if you do develop that slow speed squeak/squeal jus' before ya stop, raise the scoot off the ground jus' a bit. Start spinning the wheel. Whilst it is turning, spray CRC brake cleaner (or your fav brand) where the rotor meets the pad. The rotor will carry the cleaner into the pad/rotor contact area, and clean out the brake dust that's causing the squeak or squeal.