hey springer, please post your shop bill of what you had fixed and why it had to be fixed...i want to see where the tech says you spun a bearing because of a low idle...i'll bet someone is full of **** and its not me. also send the parts to 1002 arapaho trail tipp city ohio 45371...oh, and by the way, you should probably have some idea of what you are talking about before you post some smartass remark about someone else....

 

if you go into the idle tables in the sert, you will notice that the HARLEY DAVIDSON SCREAMIN EAGLE RACE TUNER will SAFELY allow you to set the idle down to 800 rpm on some maps up to about 850 or so on others....if harley absolutely did not want their engines to be idled down for fear of oil starvation to bearings then why on earth would they allow these adjustments to be made?

 

I am the tech that repaired it. I guess it must be me that is full of **** right? I don't have a bill other than the parts I purchased to do the repair. I have the parts at the shop still if you would like to see a picture, I will happily post it. It isn't a problem with oil pressure and I never said it was. Suggesting it was "scare tactics" was the smartass remark I was responding too.

I used to run my idle about as low as it would go. You could literally count the cylinders firing ... 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 Then I had to replace the crank pin, bearings and rods. It was a relitively new build with only a couple thousand miles on it. I don't run the idle that low any more and haven't had a problems since. I guess it must be me that is full of **** right?

Say what you want, it wasn't scare tactics. I would hate to see someone else go through the same issues because you think you know more about Harley's than Harley does. I suppose your engineering staff is far superior to Harley's.

Have a great day

 

sorry, i guess i kindof bit your head off...i must have misunderstood you on your post...a low idle on a well broken in motor will not cause spun bearings....i thought that is what you were saying...take care

 

No problem, water under the bridge .... [sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

A follow up to the problem I posted in this thread....and it looks like Shovelhead Bob may have done it again :-)

I’m no troubleshooting expert but let me share what I have found so far. This is a little long, but please read through to the end.

I uploaded the closest factory “canned” MAP for my setup into the PCIIIUSB. Took a few test runs and this appeared to solve the idle drop issue. However, the next day on the way to work idle dropped to around 800 RPM....temp around 30F. (This was the typical where I warm up the bike and head into town, stop after a few miles of highway speed and the idle drops).

Got home that evening and pulled the air cleaner just to see what condition the air filter was in; found a small amount of dirt on the inside of the cover, a small amount of oily residue (gunk) on the walls of the carb throat (I guess we’ll call it a carb even with EFI), and a small amount of oil film and black gunk on intake temp sensor. I very, very, gently cleaned temp probe with a dry Q-tip (no oil). I then wiped the small amount of residue out of the carb throat, being careful no to hit the temp probe. Dampened a Q-tip with a very small amount of WD-40 and cleaned up in hole where the IAC is mounted. It took four or five Q-tip's cleaning in this manner before they stopped coming out black. The engine was warm when I did all this so I assume the IAC was in the open position. I‘m only guessing the IAC opens when the engine warms up, kind of like a choke??? Last but not least, I blew the air filter out with compressed air (no real dirt noted) and cleaned inside of cover before re-installing it.

I have ridden the bike every morning since, with temps near 30 F (ahhh...spring time in Alaska), and the idle has been perfect. In fact, I think the idle now responds like it used to as the engine warms up (starts around 1200-1300 RPM and drops as the engine warms). The riding also included a 40 mile run for coffee over the weekend, and everything worked fine. Kind of thinking there was either junk on the IAC which prevented it from seating properly or the gunk on the temp sensor threw the reading off just enough to upset the idle operation OR MAYBE I'M JUST LUCKY????

Getting ready to re-load the custom MAP that the shop did after the 203 cam install. Hope none of this would have affected the map developed during the dyno runs. They also had the accel pump feature turned on for the map. I really could not detect much difference so would like to keep it shut off.

My thanks to Shovelhead for at least pointing me in the right direction....so far.

 

I have a totally stock 2005 fxdli and it idles at 1100 to 1200 when I first start it, then once it is warmed up it always idles at approx 1000rpm. No issues so far.. Local, well respected vtwin specialsit has verified this is normal and runnig good... I must be lucky, 8 degree injectors and I ride two up most of the time in mountainous area with no problems. Must be a weds. bike.

Keeep er vertical.....

 

950

 

Just figured this question belongs in this thread.

Have a fuel pack on my 04 dyna and its set up for what I have stage I V&H longshots and intake upgrade and it pops quite a bit am I damagingthe motor and is there any way you techs know to tune the fuel pack differantly? I would appreciate a response from someone with FP experience.

thanks steve

 

1000. I have my pipes for the "cool" sound factor.