Hey guys i got a 85 Evo motor i want to paint. Its completely bare aluminum now atm. I know i gotta prep and clean it real well. My quesiton comes in at the actual painting process, as in do i need primer, clearcoat, ect? My plan was to paint it, then sand and buff the fin edges real nice.

Planning on using Thurmalox 1200Degrees stove paint. http://www.net4sale.com/Shop/pc/view...6&idproduct=57

Should i use a primer first also? And should i clear coat it? If so what do you recomend?

 

First of all, here's what it ends up looking like. I KNOW, it's a wheel, BUT I used the same process.
This is painted with HD Wrinkle Finish #98606CJ. It may appear 'shinier' because I use "PIG Spit" on it to 'brighten' it. In 'this' case, the paint looked almost 'dull, dark gray' alongside the 'black' paint on the scoot. So I used the Pig Spit to 'blacken' it.





Beings you have 'bare' aluminum already, start with "Aluminum Brightener" (this is the actual name of their particular product) Got mine at NAPA. It is a chemical cleaner. CAUTION: IT'S NASTY, use with GOOD ventilation. Follow directions !!!! This will clean and 'etch' the aluminum. AGAIN, this is NASTY stuff. DO NOT get it all over INSIDE your cases, machined surfaces, etc. IF you choose to 'brush' it on, use a natural bristle brush, and rubber gloves. GOOD rubber gloves, not thin latex gloves. Don't 'aks' !!!!
FYI - IF your items are NOT bare, I use Gunk Foamy Engine Cleaner and E-Z OFF oven cleaner to get rid of grease, brake dust, etc. Then move to above step. NOTE - any grease, etc, will surface, once you 'throw the heat' to it. In your case, 'run the engine'.

Next step, also from NAPA, Self-Etching Primer #7220. Regular primer won't hold on aluminum, and zinc chromate is no longer available (THANX, EPA ) Like the 'brightener, this too, is rather heavy duty 'chemically'. Acetone, toulene, MIK, MEK, etc. So have GOOD vent. But it will 'stick' like all get out.

I am in the HVAC biz, and have installed more than a 'few' fireplaces, and parlor stoves, and as such, I've used many different brands of 'stove' paint. IMHO - none of them stand up worth a chit, OUTSIDE, they are for inside use. That's why I use HD wrinkle finish. It will also 'hide' small imperfections, IF that is a 'goal'. But by all means, use what you like. I feel HD paint 'weathers' the cleaning, chemicals, etc, it's exposed to, BUT I have not done any 'lab testing', , jus' 'real time'.

For the 'fin edges', start with 600. IF that jus' doesn't seem to be 'cutting' it fast enough, drop to 240, but try the 600 first. Then jump to 1000, and if you want it 'chrome' like, then 2000 to finish. Wheels above, were done with 240 to get all the gouges, scratches, stains out, then 600, then 1000, then 2000. (Yes, all 'by hand') When or if you go to 'polish' the fin edges, some do, be as careful as you can, wrinkle and flat paint, will 'absorb' (so to speak) the Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish. And then will look 'white' there, and it's a b*tch to clean.

As stated, if it appears 'dull' and you want it 'blacker' or 'brighter', I use Pig Spit, but S100 Engine Brightener (or whatever they call it) will give you the 'above' appearance.

 

Alright i guess i can change gear in paint brand department. Heres a couple other questions though. (first note i cant seem to find HD wrinkle paint anywhere?). Most the wrinkle paints im finding are only rated 300-350degrees? Will this be sufficient to place on an air cooled motor?
I was thinking probably going with vht as it seems to be a good brand. Or i could gow their their high heat coating line which is not a wrinkle, but good for up to 2000 degrees. Looks like its made for placement on exaust systems and such.
http://www.vhtpaint.com/flameproof.html High heat coating
http://www.vhtpaint.com/wrinkleplus.html Wrinkle

And when it comes to the primer, do i need to make sure the primer is high temperature also? Id assume so.

 

BLACK WRINKLE FINISH Used on pre-1995 engines and various trim parts.

touch up pn#98600CJ aerosol pn#98606CJ quart pn#98603CJ