Primary is leaking!!!
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 152
Likes: 2
From: Stafford Springs, Ct
You should fill the primary through the derby cover.
The service manual says, the oil level should be visible at the bottom of the clutch pak.
The only way to see the clutch pak is thru the derby cover.
The service manual says, the oil level should be visible at the bottom of the clutch pak.
The only way to see the clutch pak is thru the derby cover.
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
I have a leak too. It shows after a ride
long or short. But only after a ride. It is not a lot of oil
The transmission is low but the leak looks to be coming from the outboard side of the transmission sprocket, between it and the primary. The oil looks old
compared to the now new primary oil.
Ok I pulled the cover, the clutch, Compensator nut, inner cover New bearing, new jack seal (starter shaft), main shaft seal, Engine seal, primary gasket, plug seal, and derby gasket.
I looked at the clutches, they looked new for 36,000 miles. I also put in an auto chain adjuster. I recomend this! I can tell the differance.
The only thing I found was the Jack seal spring screwed up This is the very top and the tube for the starter had no oil on it.
I put all the new seals used tape on the shaft so the seal did not get cut.
Blue loctite on the seven bolts. No Teflon but I put sealant on the bottom one behind the clutch.
I still have a leak Can it be the small oil seal? The one on the main shaft? If so, how do I get the old out? And is there a way to put one in without screwing it up?
Is it worthwhile to do oil dye?
I not worried about working on the bike. Ive been rebuilding cars, boats, planes, motors for most of my life. I just need a thought of what is going on?
Here is a quick trick for re filling the primary: Due to the clutch being in the way to fill by just pouring it in. You have a old derby cover gasket that should be clean. Use it by folding it a little and put it in the opening. This will act as your funnel. If the bolt hole is in the bottom it will pour it quick.
Ok I pulled the cover, the clutch, Compensator nut, inner cover New bearing, new jack seal (starter shaft), main shaft seal, Engine seal, primary gasket, plug seal, and derby gasket.
I looked at the clutches, they looked new for 36,000 miles. I also put in an auto chain adjuster. I recomend this! I can tell the differance.
The only thing I found was the Jack seal spring screwed up This is the very top and the tube for the starter had no oil on it.
I put all the new seals used tape on the shaft so the seal did not get cut.
Blue loctite on the seven bolts. No Teflon but I put sealant on the bottom one behind the clutch.
I still have a leak Can it be the small oil seal? The one on the main shaft? If so, how do I get the old out? And is there a way to put one in without screwing it up?
Is it worthwhile to do oil dye?
I not worried about working on the bike. Ive been rebuilding cars, boats, planes, motors for most of my life. I just need a thought of what is going on?
Here is a quick trick for re filling the primary: Due to the clutch being in the way to fill by just pouring it in. You have a old derby cover gasket that should be clean. Use it by folding it a little and put it in the opening. This will act as your funnel. If the bolt hole is in the bottom it will pour it quick.
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
Well here is some more. The nut backed off for the drive pulley. The seal between the trans bearing and trans seal sleave was leaking. The sleave had wear marks on the trans side.
Parts list:
Everything to pull thr primary, the sleave, new seal, new trans seal, and a lot of my rding time.
Parts list:
Everything to pull thr primary, the sleave, new seal, new trans seal, and a lot of my rding time.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,719
Likes: 1
If you look at the primary case, the larger round part of it on the back end where the clutch resides is a tad lower than the middle where the primary chain tensioner is. There are also support ribs on the inside of the outer primary cover which will hold oil until the level is sufficiently high enough to flow over them. By using the chain inspection cover to fill the primary case, without opening the derby cover, you cannot be sure of proper oil level. Yep, tis true, it best to at least have the derby cover off to verify oil level even if you use the chain inspection cover to fill the oil. That's my story and I'm... well you've all heard that before.
Last edited by CroK; Nov 25, 2009 at 07:46 AM.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,719
Likes: 1
I still have a leak… Can it be the small oil seal? The one on the main shaft? If so, how do I get the old out? And is there a way to put one in without screwing it up?
Is it worthwhile to do oil dye?
I not worried about working on the bike. I’ve been rebuilding cars, boats, planes, motors for most of my life. I just need a thought of what is going on?
Is it worthwhile to do oil dye?
I not worried about working on the bike. I’ve been rebuilding cars, boats, planes, motors for most of my life. I just need a thought of what is going on?
Again, make sure you protect the shaft when placing the new seal so it doesn't get nicked. Also, I like to use a small amount of gasket sealer around the metal jacket of the seal to ensure it is sealed against the seat of the outer shaft. You've probalby done that also with auto engines, as have I.
Some one is going to enlighten me that those seals already have sealer on the outer metal part, yes they do, but I still like to apply a thin layer myself.
Last edited by CroK; Nov 25, 2009 at 07:52 AM.
Banned
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 771
Likes: 2
From: Hurricane,WV
I have a leak too. It shows after a ride
long or short. But only after a ride. It is not a lot of oil
The transmission is low but the leak looks to be coming from the outboard side of the transmission sprocket, between it and the primary. The oil looks old
compared to the now new primary oil.
Ok I pulled the cover, the clutch, Compensator nut, inner cover New bearing, new jack seal (starter shaft), main shaft seal, Engine seal, primary gasket, plug seal, and derby gasket.
I looked at the clutches, they looked new for 36,000 miles. I also put in an auto chain adjuster. I recomend this! I can tell the differance.
The only thing I found was the Jack seal spring screwed up This is the very top and the tube for the starter had no oil on it.
I put all the new seals used tape on the shaft so the seal did not get cut.
Blue loctite on the seven bolts. No Teflon but I put sealant on the bottom one behind the clutch.
I still have a leak Can it be the small oil seal? The one on the main shaft? If so, how do I get the old out? And is there a way to put one in without screwing it up?
Is it worthwhile to do oil dye?
I not worried about working on the bike. Ive been rebuilding cars, boats, planes, motors for most of my life. I just need a thought of what is going on?
Here is a quick trick for re filling the primary: Due to the clutch being in the way to fill by just pouring it in. You have a old derby cover gasket that should be clean. Use it by folding it a little and put it in the opening. This will act as your funnel. If the bolt hole is in the bottom it will pour it quick.
Ok I pulled the cover, the clutch, Compensator nut, inner cover New bearing, new jack seal (starter shaft), main shaft seal, Engine seal, primary gasket, plug seal, and derby gasket.
I looked at the clutches, they looked new for 36,000 miles. I also put in an auto chain adjuster. I recomend this! I can tell the differance.
The only thing I found was the Jack seal spring screwed up This is the very top and the tube for the starter had no oil on it.
I put all the new seals used tape on the shaft so the seal did not get cut.
Blue loctite on the seven bolts. No Teflon but I put sealant on the bottom one behind the clutch.
I still have a leak Can it be the small oil seal? The one on the main shaft? If so, how do I get the old out? And is there a way to put one in without screwing it up?
Is it worthwhile to do oil dye?
I not worried about working on the bike. Ive been rebuilding cars, boats, planes, motors for most of my life. I just need a thought of what is going on?
Here is a quick trick for re filling the primary: Due to the clutch being in the way to fill by just pouring it in. You have a old derby cover gasket that should be clean. Use it by folding it a little and put it in the opening. This will act as your funnel. If the bolt hole is in the bottom it will pour it quick.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,642
Likes: 6
From: Forest Lake, Mn
I have a leak too. It shows after a ride
long or short. But only after a ride. It is not a lot of oil
The transmission is low but the leak looks to be coming from the outboard side of the transmission sprocket, between it and the primary. The oil looks old
compared to the now new primary oil.
Ok I pulled the cover, the clutch, Compensator nut, inner cover New bearing, new jack seal (starter shaft), main shaft seal, Engine seal, primary gasket, plug seal, and derby gasket.
I looked at the clutches, they looked new for 36,000 miles. I also put in an auto chain adjuster. I recomend this! I can tell the differance.
The only thing I found was the Jack seal spring screwed up This is the very top and the tube for the starter had no oil on it.
I put all the new seals used tape on the shaft so the seal did not get cut.
Blue loctite on the seven bolts. No Teflon but I put sealant on the bottom one behind the clutch.
I still have a leak Can it be the small oil seal? The one on the main shaft? If so, how do I get the old out? And is there a way to put one in without screwing it up?
Is it worthwhile to do oil dye?
I not worried about working on the bike. Ive been rebuilding cars, boats, planes, motors for most of my life. I just need a thought of what is going on?
Here is a quick trick for re filling the primary: Due to the clutch being in the way to fill by just pouring it in. You have a old derby cover gasket that should be clean. Use it by folding it a little and put it in the opening. This will act as your funnel. If the bolt hole is in the bottom it will pour it quick.
Ok I pulled the cover, the clutch, Compensator nut, inner cover New bearing, new jack seal (starter shaft), main shaft seal, Engine seal, primary gasket, plug seal, and derby gasket.
I looked at the clutches, they looked new for 36,000 miles. I also put in an auto chain adjuster. I recomend this! I can tell the differance.
The only thing I found was the Jack seal spring screwed up This is the very top and the tube for the starter had no oil on it.
I put all the new seals used tape on the shaft so the seal did not get cut.
Blue loctite on the seven bolts. No Teflon but I put sealant on the bottom one behind the clutch.
I still have a leak Can it be the small oil seal? The one on the main shaft? If so, how do I get the old out? And is there a way to put one in without screwing it up?
Is it worthwhile to do oil dye?
I not worried about working on the bike. Ive been rebuilding cars, boats, planes, motors for most of my life. I just need a thought of what is going on?
Here is a quick trick for re filling the primary: Due to the clutch being in the way to fill by just pouring it in. You have a old derby cover gasket that should be clean. Use it by folding it a little and put it in the opening. This will act as your funnel. If the bolt hole is in the bottom it will pour it quick.
I use a piece of PVC plastic pipe, ground down to the EXACT outside dimension of the seal. The pipe will slip over the shaft, and keep the seal, PERFECTLY aligned, this is KEY, IMPORTANT, PARAMOUNT!!!!! The seals are very INEXPENSINVE, so buy 2 or 3, cause you're gonna screw up, at LEAST, ONE.
UHHH, HAD a guy tell me THAT, once.
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