Winterize Tips?
1. Ride bike and get up to operating temperature.
2. Stop and fill tank full of gas.
3. Ride bike home and drain all fluids. Always change the fluids hot then all the contaminates are removed. I always wondered if the dealer preheats your bike before changing the fluids? Never put your bike into storage with dirty oil, the dirt seperates from the oil and sticks to the bottom of the pan.
4. Add all new fluids to spec.
5. Add gas stabilizer or HD fuel conditioner to tank per specs. Run bike until the stabilizer gets thru the complete fuel system.
6. Remove plugs and put 3 to 5 drops of oil into each cylinder and cycle motor with plugs removed. This will lube the inside of the cylinder walls and prevent rusting. Reinstall plugs.
7. Remove battery and store inside with battery tender if temps are going to be below freezing for any period of time. This will improve the life of your battery if it is not exposed to below freezing temps.
8. Remove air cleaner and wash and dry if "K&N" type. if not replace.
9. Wash and clean all painted surfaces. Polish if possible. Do not store your bike dirty
10. Check air pressure in tires. Store bike on lift. I built cradles for mine and this way they are off the ground and ready to work on during this downtime.
11. Remove windshields and store inside. The lexan gets funky in about 2 years from the variation in temperatures and will appear cloudy and hard to clean.
12. Cover bike with breathable cover. No plastic or vinyl. If mice are present don't cover the bike they like to get under the cover and chew on the leather. Also plug the exhaust as they like to get in there and build nests.
I do not run my bike during the cold months the fluids will not get up to operating temperature and will cause excessive condensation in the crankcase. Plus if you run 20-50 oil it will tax the oil pump in temps below freezing. Whatever condensation forms will be burned off when you first ride in the spring make the first ride a long one and get everything nice and hot.
Now in the spring reinstall battery, start bike with old plugs so if any residual oil is left in the cylinders it will contaminate the old plugs. Then install new plugs and as always do a safety check to make sure brake lights and turn signals are all operational. Recheck air pressure in your tires and you are good to go.
Hope this helps I do this to all my bikes and have had awesome results, long lasting batteries, good windshields, flawless paint, rims and tires stay in excellent condition, and superior mechanical reliability.
Last edited by C O L E M A N F U; Sep 4, 2009 at 10:53 AM.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
1. Ride bike and get up to operating temperature.
2. Stop and fill tank full of gas.
3. Ride bike home and drain all fluids. Always change the fluids hot then all the contaminates are removed. I always wondered if the dealer preheats your bike before changing the fluids? Never put your bike into storage with dirty oil, the dirt seperates from the oil and sticks to the bottom of the pan.
4. Add all new fluids to spec.
5. Add gas stabilizer or HD fuel conditioner to tank per specs. Run bike until the stabilizer gets thru the complete fuel system.
6. Remove plugs and put 3 to 5 drops of oil into each cylinder and cycle motor with plugs removed. This will lube the inside of the cylinder walls and prevent rusting. Reinstall plugs.
7. Remove battery and store inside with battery tender if temps are going to be below freezing for any period of time. This will improve the life of your battery if it is not exposed to below freezing temps.
8. Remove air cleaner and wash and dry if "K&N" type. if not replace.
9. Wash and clean all painted surfaces. Polish if possible. Do not store your bike dirty
10. Check air pressure in tires. Store bike on lift. I built cradles for mine and this way they are off the ground and ready to work on during this downtime.
11. Remove windshields and store inside. The lexan gets funky in about 2 years from the variation in temperatures and will appear cloudy and hard to clean.
12. Cover bike with breathable cover. No plastic or vinyl. If mice are present don't cover the bike they like to get under the cover and chew on the leather. Also plug the exhaust as they like to get in there and build nests.
I do not run my bike during the cold months the fluids will not get up to operating temperature and will cause excessive condensation in the crankcase. Plus if you run 20-50 oil it will tax the oil pump in temps below freezing. Whatever condensation forms will be burned off when you first ride in the spring make the first ride a long one and get everything nice and hot.
Now in the spring reinstall battery, start bike with old plugs so if any residual oil is left in the cylinders it will contaminate the old plugs. Then install new plugs and as always do a safety check to make sure brake lights and turn signals are all operational. Recheck air pressure in your tires and you are good to go.
Hope this helps I do this to all my bikes and have had awesome results, long lasting batteries, good windshields, flawless paint, rims and tires stay in excellent condition, and superior mechanical reliability.
other than that you have listed some of the VERY best advice for winter storage... funny about the windshield! my dad and brother own 4 optical clinics, and ALWAYS bring their shields in durring the winter... they where the first ones to tell me about this... it is true... great tips! I also WD40 up the pipes to keep critters out... works
Last edited by JRK5892; Sep 4, 2009 at 02:58 PM.






