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Before you go to the expense try this experiment. For the next few times you're out riding, when you turn on the ignition, hit the start button immedietly. Do not wait for the engine light to turn off. It may eliminate the need for comp releases. Try it and let us know how it works for you.
I have heard about the auto release problem, as I understand it is largely a thing of the past and new releases work fine.
I have tried the immediate start option, but if I restart within 10-15 minutes in any warmer weather it still happens, I am also trying super unleaded for 3-4 tanks and comparing it to regular. I guess one detonates easier and I should use the other one.
I am also trying to get the dealer to report to me my ignition timing numbers from my dyno run, to match with some threads that talk about retarding these numbers.
I have also read the tighten battery cable threads and the new battery, new HD starter threads.
The real bitch is the bike runs great otherwise with great torque.
Lower octane fuels have a faster ignition rate but you could cause pinging and pre detination and thats not good all the way around especially on a high compression bike. Manual releases only cost about 100 bucks for the good ones and I would definitely take the heads off to machine them. A little lonely metal chip could eat up your cylinder walls or even worse get in your oil pump and cause a failure.
I learned the hard way by not doing it when the motor was built.With that said when you do it take it apart and do it in the jig.Don't take a chance on ruining what you have with a couple of metal shards floating around in the cylinder.Manual releases,save the money on the auto ones.Takes half a second to pop the valve.It becomes part of your starting routine real quick.
A good machinist with the jig lying around could do the job in less than an hour. Overall cost with labor and parts should be no more than 200 bucks. You could probably get it done cheaper than that. Like I said the job should take no more than an hour, first head would be the setup after that the second is just popping a clearance and threaded hole in it.
Last edited by Soldier of Misfortune; Apr 8, 2010 at 09:30 AM.
What makes you think you need compression releaases? HDs run on min 91 octane, been that way since the evo's. A stage 2 kit would be still running stock compression. I had a 80" evo with a EV3 cam and 10:5:1 compression, and it never needed compression releases. Sold it with 124k mi on th eoriginal motor, still ran strong. Unless your running 11 and over compression, save your $....
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