Need help with control cable swap.
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 321
Likes: 1
From: Carol Stream, IL
Need help with control cable swap.
I have a 2008 fatboy and now I am putting on mini ape bars and changing all the cables to sterling chromite II. I already have the namz extention kit which looks straight forward. I have the service manual but reading it over and over there are a few things that are still not clear to me. Maybe some of you who have already done this can help me out here. I already have my tank off and all cables are accessible.
1) To change the brake cable Do I have to empty out the brake oil thats in the reservoir before removing the old cable ? Do you take out the caliper and then remove the bleeder valve? or can I change the cable and then bleed the brakes ? I just dont know what happens when you remove the brake cable from the lever does it drip all the brake oil ?
2) To change the Throttle and Idle cable do you have to remove the Air filter ? I have the tank already off the bike.
Any pics you have about swapping cables would be appreciated. I did a search in the forum and all it says is get a manual but manual has a process for bleeding brakes not a specific process of how to replace any of the control cables ... Thank you guys
1) To change the brake cable Do I have to empty out the brake oil thats in the reservoir before removing the old cable ? Do you take out the caliper and then remove the bleeder valve? or can I change the cable and then bleed the brakes ? I just dont know what happens when you remove the brake cable from the lever does it drip all the brake oil ?
2) To change the Throttle and Idle cable do you have to remove the Air filter ? I have the tank already off the bike.
Any pics you have about swapping cables would be appreciated. I did a search in the forum and all it says is get a manual but manual has a process for bleeding brakes not a specific process of how to replace any of the control cables ... Thank you guys
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 5
From: Emerald Coast, FL
Step one: Bleed out the brake system completely (it's best to replace all the brake fluid with fresh and its not all that expensive, plus when reassembling there is less air likely to remain in lines)... open bleeder valve and if you have a bleeder pump use that... if not just let gravity do its thing. Hint: You can suck most of the brake fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster or something similar... do not allow any contaminates in reservoir.
Step two: Attach all lines leaving bleeder valve open... then fill reservoir with fresh fluid. When fresh fluid reaches bleeder valve, slowly close valve and while tapping on brake line build up fluid behind it. When fluid stops passing into line from reservoir, stop with the fluid and look for air bubbles coming up out of line into reservoir... wait until bubbles stop completely then top off reservoir and put gasket and top back on. Should be good to go!
The cables are basic... watch what your doing when you take the originals off and reverse the steps to put the new ones on... take a picture before you start if your worried. You shouldn't have to remove the air intake if you can get to the cables with your tank off.
Step two: Attach all lines leaving bleeder valve open... then fill reservoir with fresh fluid. When fresh fluid reaches bleeder valve, slowly close valve and while tapping on brake line build up fluid behind it. When fluid stops passing into line from reservoir, stop with the fluid and look for air bubbles coming up out of line into reservoir... wait until bubbles stop completely then top off reservoir and put gasket and top back on. Should be good to go!
The cables are basic... watch what your doing when you take the originals off and reverse the steps to put the new ones on... take a picture before you start if your worried. You shouldn't have to remove the air intake if you can get to the cables with your tank off.
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WarriorHD
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Apr 10, 2006 04:58 PM
