Loose comp nuts have been an issue with MOCO for as long as I have been riding and it could be just as common on the EVO as well. It amazes me that they just can't figure out a way to correct the problem other than issue new service bulletins on how to tighten it. On the early model TC's, loose comp nut damage will be limited to the primary components, but on later models, the comp nut actually pulls everything on the crank together and a loose nut on one of these could destroy an engine (as already posted here on this thread). If you have a late model and suspect a loose nut, you need to STOP and get it fixed.

I find that cleaning, using locktite and having all my friends and neighbors come over and stand on the cheater bar..... then jump up-n-down will torque it sufficiently....I think. I have had mine fixed on almost every long trip I have been on by mechanics that said..."that's it....it is tight now....it ain't going anywhere...I promise" only to have it work loose again.

I had to replace my stator this last time and I had a 45 AMP kit installed which is thicker. Maybe I'll be okay now, but I do have a trailer-hitch ball wrench in my tool kit and my primary chain locking tool as well. One end of it will fit my comp nut if I have to fix it in the middle of nowhere again. I am not paying some idiot at a dealership over $100 a pop to play with it.

 

Been reading about loose compensator nuts a lot. Shouldn't be that hard to prevent.

 

There are various ways to fix it and one way is to get rid of the compensator altogether, but when you do, you put all the pop-n-snap directly on the crank halves and the pressed-in pin that holds them together.

They hold the final drive pulley nut with a retainer plate. I can't see why they have never came-up with a similar retention system for the comp nut, but they would rather issue service bulletins on how to tighten it and make money off of you to have it tightened.

Thank god these are not airplanes!

 

Part of my prep for the Hoka Hey this year includes checking the compensator. I'm even thinking about just replacing it with a direct drive sprocket and not having to worry about the guts going at some point in the future.

Has any one here done that and if so how bad is it when putting it in gear or hitting the throttle?

 

I mentioned that in the above post, but I have not done it. I know others have and the "concern" seems to be the shock it places on the crank shaft components. Personally, I would not do it unless I had my crank trued and the crank-pin welded in so the halves can't slip. Some folks have machined a slight amount off the base of the nut, others have added spacers and still another suggestion I saw was where a guy had drilled-n-tapped a set-screw in the face of the nut. I also think there is a retainer for sale out there somewhere, but I forget where I saw that information.

Maybe somebody that has eliminated the compensator will chime-in here and make some comments.

 

There was a bunch of threads on it back in 07-08, seems more so on the touring bikes.

lots of owners went ahead and had the SE comp installed because of the hard knock on start up also.

 

I've also been told to use heat when removing the comp nut. Supposedly, the shock from an impact wrench (enough to break the loctite free) can damage the stator/rotor. Also, don't use an impact to tighten it, for the same reason.

 

M-1170 1 of 2
SERVICE BULLETIN
M-1170 May 27, 2005
COMPENSATING SPROCKET TORQUE PROCEDURE
Ž
Purpose
This Bulletin documents a torque and turn-of-nut procedure
for tightening the engine compensating sprocket. This procedure
improves the clamp load on this assembly and replaces
the present tighten-to-torque procedure.
Motorcycles Affected
All 2003 through 2005 Touring, Softail, and Dyna model
motorcycles including CVO models with Twin-Cam engines.
Production vehicles began using this procedure May, 2005.
Dealer Action
Update all service literature and notify service technicians. To
assure this procedure is used, insert this Service Bulletin
number in the TORQUE VALUES tables in Section 6.1 SPECIFICATIONS
of the Service Manuals covering Touring, Softail
and Dyna models for model years 2003 through 2005.
Instructions
1. See Figure 1. Before installing the clutch, primary chain,
compensating sprocket and shaft extension assembly do
the following:
a. Clean threads on engine sprocket shaft (1) and
internal threads in sprocket nut (2) with LOCTITE
7649 CLEANER/PRIMER, Part No. 98968-99.
NOTE
If a new sprocket nut, with lock-patch, is being installed the
clean/prime of the internal threads is not needed. If the nut is
being reused, clean the internal threads as specified in step
a. above
b. Apply two drops of LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262
(red) to the threads on the engine sprocket shaft.
c. Apply engine oil to the complete underside (3) of
sprocket nut (2). This is the area that will contact the
sprocket cover.
2. Follow the Service Manual procedure for installing the
clutch, primary chain, compensating sprocket and shaft
extension as an assembly.
3. Install sprocket shaft nut and hand tighten. Follow the
Service Manual procedure for installing the clutch hub
mainshaft nut.
4. See Figure 2. Tighten sprocket shaft nut to 75 ft-lbs
(101.7 Nm).
Figure 1. Compensating Sprocket Preassembly
Figure 2. Tightening To 75 ft-lbs (101.7 Nm)
1 2
1. Engine sprocket shaft threads
2. Sprocket shaft nut
3. Underside of nut
3
s0645x.
7857a.
IMPORTANT NOTE
In the interest of preserving customer safety and satisfaction, always check for outstanding recalls whenever any motorcycle is brought into your
dealership for either maintenance or service.
Š2005 HARLEY-DAVIDSONŽ MOTOR COMPANY


M-1170 2 of 2
5. See Figure 3. Scribe a line (3) on the sprocket shaft nut
(1). Continue the line on the sprocket cover (2) as shown.
6. Tighten the sprocket shaft nut an additional 45° to 50°
(50° MAXIMUM).

 

1550vt - I guess you never heard of the three model years of Gold Wings that had faulty frame welds. Or the throttle body failures that they had. Or the bad bearings in the VTX's because of improper installation on the assembley line.

Any thing made has its problems. Lambo owners had several model years that the roofs had bad leaks. Even Rolls Royce needs parts and techs to keep things going.

Every heard of a parts failure for a Boeing plane or a Caterpillar tractor? You bet there have been.

Get over it. Have it fixed. Yes it is irritating if the tech does not do a good job of the repair, but again that is what happens when it is humans making things.

125,000 deaths per year from mistakes in the medical profession and you are bent out of shape for a minor repair.

 

Get your panties out of a wad 4 x 4. I have been on Harleys ever since I was a kid and that has been around 20 bikes ago. How many have you owned? I have paid all the Harley taxes. I know all manufacturers have their problems. I am a long time poster on these forums and did not jump on here as a newbie to just beat-up on the MOCO (although they deserve most of what they get) and I refuse to be dragged into a food-fight with you over the fact that you think I may not be a loyal Harley fan.

Now...as far as the procedure posted by DLI...the next time any of you have a comp nut re-torqued....look to see if you can find any scribed lines. It's just another overlooked service bulletin and it has been out for years.