problem with rush slip on
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 263
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From: atlanta ga.
problem with rush slip on
i would like to know if any of you are having the same problem. one of the end caps on my rush slip on pipes has loosened to the point where the gap is pretty big. the dealer installed the pipes. it has a torx screw holding the end cap on positioned toward the frame so it is not in sight. putting a mirror and a flashlight back there i can see that the screw is somewhat stripped. i had taken this back to the dealer when the bike was still under warranty and had them fix it once. it is doing the exact same thing again.
here is the part that made me post this question: my buddy at work got the exact same pipes on the same model and one of his end caps is doing the same thing. we looked at the torx screw and it looks partially stripped too.
i would be interested to hear from others who have these pipes. i dunno if the dealership used locktite when they fitted the endcaps or not. as hot as the exhaust gets can locktite be used?
thanks for any help you can lend.
here is the part that made me post this question: my buddy at work got the exact same pipes on the same model and one of his end caps is doing the same thing. we looked at the torx screw and it looks partially stripped too.
i would be interested to hear from others who have these pipes. i dunno if the dealership used locktite when they fitted the endcaps or not. as hot as the exhaust gets can locktite be used?
thanks for any help you can lend.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 765
Likes: 13
From: Bremen, GA
I've had my Rush slip-ons installed for over a year with no problems at all. I got mine from Fuel Moto but I would not think there would be a difference. Call Rush and see what they say. May be a mod out you don't know about. I wouldn't depend on the dealer for help.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,478
Likes: 184
From: Mount Airy, MD
I've removed and reinstalled my end caps a couple of times to change out the baffles/matting and have never had the problem you described. Mine came with lock washers and have never loosened up or stripped. I have not used LockTite either.
It sounds to me like the mechanic at the dealer had trouble tightening that one because of it's location and left it somewhat loose. I would remove the muffler, install the end cap correctly (get a new Stainless Steel torx screw if it's stripped) getting all three torx screws secured then reinstall the muffler.
You do need to be able to hold the head of the torx screw when you tighten the nut on the inside of the cap otherwise you won't get it tight enough.
It sounds to me like the mechanic at the dealer had trouble tightening that one because of it's location and left it somewhat loose. I would remove the muffler, install the end cap correctly (get a new Stainless Steel torx screw if it's stripped) getting all three torx screws secured then reinstall the muffler.
You do need to be able to hold the head of the torx screw when you tighten the nut on the inside of the cap otherwise you won't get it tight enough.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
From: atlanta ga.
I've removed and reinstalled my end caps a couple of times to change out the baffles/matting and have never had the problem you described. Mine came with lock washers and have never loosened up or stripped. I have not used LockTite either.
It sounds to me like the mechanic at the dealer had trouble tightening that one because of it's location and left it somewhat loose. I would remove the muffler, install the end cap correctly (get a new Stainless Steel torx screw if it's stripped) getting all three torx screws secured then reinstall the muffler.
You do need to be able to hold the head of the torx screw when you tighten the nut on the inside of the cap otherwise you won't get it tight enough.
It sounds to me like the mechanic at the dealer had trouble tightening that one because of it's location and left it somewhat loose. I would remove the muffler, install the end cap correctly (get a new Stainless Steel torx screw if it's stripped) getting all three torx screws secured then reinstall the muffler.
You do need to be able to hold the head of the torx screw when you tighten the nut on the inside of the cap otherwise you won't get it tight enough.
Club Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 145,895
Likes: 821
From: 40 miles Northeast of Indy..
If there stripped then someone stripped them, if it wasn't U then theres only one other possibility. The installer....
If its the end cap thats stripped all U should have to do is turn it a little and drill new holes and thread them so they'll tighten up. Or another fix would be to drill out and put a bolt long enough to add a nut to the inside of the end cap.
If its the bolts, just get new ones....
I've had my baffles out 4-5 times and the threads are still perfect.
Also might give Rush a call, had an issue with mine at first, decell popping.
The HD wrench that done my stg1/SERT and installed the pipes at the 1k service, re-dynoed twice to get rid of the popping but couldn't, then said I'd have to live with the popping.
I called Rush, in 30secs the tech told me its, AIR LEAKS... In the end I found it was from improper clamp install. they were 1/2 off the mufflers and caused the 4 slots on each muffler to leak air.
Back to the dealer and after they installed new clamps, correctly this time and re-dynoed again,,,, NO MORE POPPING.. Imagine that!!!!
Every time I've I called Rush they have bent over backwards to help fix and solve issues..
Even sent me new packing after 16k when they got really loud, free..overnight.. NOW U cant beat that service.!!!!
If its the end cap thats stripped all U should have to do is turn it a little and drill new holes and thread them so they'll tighten up. Or another fix would be to drill out and put a bolt long enough to add a nut to the inside of the end cap.
If its the bolts, just get new ones....
I've had my baffles out 4-5 times and the threads are still perfect.
Also might give Rush a call, had an issue with mine at first, decell popping.
The HD wrench that done my stg1/SERT and installed the pipes at the 1k service, re-dynoed twice to get rid of the popping but couldn't, then said I'd have to live with the popping.
I called Rush, in 30secs the tech told me its, AIR LEAKS... In the end I found it was from improper clamp install. they were 1/2 off the mufflers and caused the 4 slots on each muffler to leak air.
Back to the dealer and after they installed new clamps, correctly this time and re-dynoed again,,,, NO MORE POPPING.. Imagine that!!!!
Every time I've I called Rush they have bent over backwards to help fix and solve issues..
Even sent me new packing after 16k when they got really loud, free..overnight.. NOW U cant beat that service.!!!!
Last edited by oct1949; Oct 8, 2010 at 11:43 AM. Reason: added more
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I am a little confused as you stated there is only one bolt for the tip. Our slip-ons use three evenly spaced button head allen bolts with a lock washer and nut. These are included with the tips. All three bolts must be used to securly mount the tip. They are evenly positioned at 12, 4, and 8 o'clock. We only use torx on the baffle bolts.
If it's possible please post or send me some pictures to verify these are Rush slip ons and from there we can determine if it was an installation error or a manufacturing issue. As oct1949 so kindly stated, we try our best to take care of our customers. If it's easier you can always call and speak with a tech.
Thanks,
Ryan
If it's possible please post or send me some pictures to verify these are Rush slip ons and from there we can determine if it was an installation error or a manufacturing issue. As oct1949 so kindly stated, we try our best to take care of our customers. If it's easier you can always call and speak with a tech.
Thanks,
Ryan
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