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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 06:05 PM
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Default Torque Wrench

Getting ready to start the winter tear down and need a torque wrench for the re-build. What kind does everyone recommend? Craftsman has some for a decent deal but I'm not hearing much good about them. Input?
 
Old Jan 26, 2011 | 06:08 PM
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Craftsman's good quility for the normal joe - you don't need to invest huge $$$ if you plan on doing the occasional winter project. I went w/Kobalt b/c Lowes has military discount - it works well too. Another option, for the cheaper route, is Harbor Freight...
 
Old Jan 26, 2011 | 06:10 PM
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Google Harbor Freight. They have theirs on sale until the 27th. When I replaced my front tire, I torqued to mid-range specs, and then had my dealer tech check at my next service. It was spot on.
 
Old Jan 26, 2011 | 07:33 PM
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I use the Harbor Freight ones. They are spot on for what they claim to be. I've never tested mine, but I have heard that they test nearly as accurate as ones 5x their price.
 
Old Jan 27, 2011 | 06:03 AM
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Craftsman works well for me. My brother in law works at an airline and has checked the calibration for me. Spot on. Make sure to check the internet price and print out the page if cheaper. I saved $20 on each (inch & foot), but had to argue and present the internet page to get the store to honor the price. Still took the Manager to make it happen.
 
Old Jan 27, 2011 | 06:14 AM
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Harbor Freight. Got 3/8' drive inch# and foot#, plus 1/4" drive inch#. All three for about 70 bucks.
 
Old Jan 27, 2011 | 06:36 AM
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I have a Harbor Freight inch pound and a Sears Foot pound but the most valuable one in my garage is my old bar rail wrench. It always stays right. You can buy a new bar rail wrench most anywhere for $20 or so. The clickers are necessary for some work positions but use the rail to check them.

Calibration for the average guy that doesn't work in a shop is usually more expensive than buying a new wrench.

Buy what ever suits you, but check them every so often to your rail wrench.
I just bolt a grade 8 type bolt, 1/2 or larger to my truck trailer hitch area of the rear bumper. I will then torque it to say 25lbs with the rail wrench. Then set the clicker to 25lbs and see if it clicks. If it does then untorque and retorque the bolt (with the rail wrench) to 3lbs less and then try the clicker while it's still set to 25lbs. If it clicks before the bolt moves then keep working down to find out exactly where it's clicking. That way you will always be covered.
And always check a new wrench as soon as you buy it. I bought one from H.F. once that was defective.
 

Last edited by R_W_B; Jan 27, 2011 at 06:39 AM.
Old Jan 27, 2011 | 08:57 AM
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Craftsman works well for what I do. Checked it with others and they were spot on.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 09:04 AM
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I don't like cheap tools. In fact any project I get involved in is another excuse to buy a nice new tool of some kind or another. I prefer Snap on torque wrenches. I do have a Craftsman ft pound torquer but I use the snap on inch pound wrench whenever possible and just convert the ft pounds to inch pound unless it exceeds the snap on capacity. I also like the dial torque wrenches because you can clearly see where they are if they have not been calibrated lately, and who the heck sends theirs in for calibration unless you are a pro mechanic.
 
Old Jan 27, 2011 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by bbach
..... .... I also like the dial torque wrenches because you can clearly see where they are if they have not been calibrated lately, and who the heck sends theirs in for calibration unless you are a pro mechanic.
I've never used a dial wrench. How do they work, or in other words when you say - you can see where they are at if they have not been calibrated - what does that mean?
 



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