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Guys I need some help. I have an '06 Fatboy and one of the axle bolts on the right side broke off. I've tried drilling it out to fit a bolt extractor in it with no luck. Has anybody else had this problem or can anyone give me some good advice on how to get the darn thing out? Thanks in advance. I need to get back in the wind!!
Thanks again!
By the way, I've tried drilling it to get a bolt extractor in it but with no luck!
Last edited by VaFatboy45; Mar 22, 2011 at 07:25 PM.
Reason: add information
Guys I need some help. I have an '06 Fatboy and one of the axle bolts on the right side broke off. I've tried drilling it out to fit a bolt extractor in it with no luck. Has anybody else had this problem or can anyone give me some good advice on how to get the darn thing out? Thanks in advance. I need to get back in the wind!!
Thanks again!
I have done a lot of this type work but I need to see a few pictures of what you have left to work with. Ez-outs tend to wedge and make the stuck fastner tighter if you are flush with the surface. Heat helps but needs to be applyed right when finishes are important. Provide some pictures for free advice.
Don't know if this will help you at all, but, I had all the bolts on the rear wheel pulley shear off flush/below the wheel flange.... ended up welding a rod onto the broken bolt end and then welding a nut to that...spun them right out. Good luck...
Heres one pic man. Still trying to open the other two.
Those are studs, not bolts. Can't really tell where it's broken, from the end-on view. If you have an inch or so to work with, you can double nut it, and then twist it out with a crecent wrench on the upper nut. Those studs are red Loctited, so be sure to hit it with a torch first before trying to remove!
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Is it a chrome lower or OEM? If it is not chrome, I would think of just changing it out. If it is an OEM lower, a lot of guys on here have those laying around.
Otherwise, I would take it off and use some of the advice from the guys here, or take it to a machine shop and ask them to remove it.
Appears flush and I am sure not flat. You say you have already drilled I assume for a ezout. If it was from the start I would have clamped the cap back on with the one bolt and used the hole to start the drill to just have the drill point true. Then drilled it with a smaller drill for the ezout all the way through the stud. Then I would have hit it with my micro butane torch. Need about 500 degrees and with a hole you can get just the stud hot without wicking to the al. Then I would probably tried to take a small chisel and notched into one side and then jumped to a blunt chisel and tapped it cclw. By doing this tends to stopping cutting into it. Using the ezout in a flush application drives the thread outward and tends to wedge it tighter and also the ezout is so hard once you brake that you need a solid carbide drill and a rigid drill press to get it out. The welding is also great way and this puts heat right to it. Good luck.
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