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Broken Bolt Problem

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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 04:38 AM
  #11  
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Thanks for the replies guys! I really appreciate it. The lowers are chrome already. The bolt is broken up in the hole a bit so there is nothing to grab on to. The is now an indention where I attempted to drill it so it's not flat. I've messed with it tonight until I was ready to get out the BFH so I quit. The parts guy at the harley shop said that it's threaded up in there too. Any truth to that? He had to order me one so couldn't show me. Where would I apply the heat if I tried your last method grf? Directly to the bolt from the bottom? That looks like the only choice that I have left. Thanks again for all of your help.

Mike
 
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 06:49 AM
  #12  
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Mike,

If it is broken up inside the hole, I would take it off. I try what VAfatboy said, but if that did not work, it would go to a machine shop to get them to remove it. The cost would be minor, compared to replacing the lower if you screw it up.
 
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 07:10 AM
  #13  
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The stud is threaded in the fork lower.
If your having a problem now trying to remove it,you may be better off removing the lower and have a machine shop do the repair.
 
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 07:24 AM
  #14  
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just did a search on e-bay. Chromed lower legs for your bike start at $150 a pair with buy it now price. Stock non chromed are buy it now for $24.99 a pair! Any machine shop willing to work on your lower leg (AFTER you messed with it) is gonna get a bench charge anywhere from $25-$90 per hour. And just because you bring it to a shop doesn't mean they will be successful! My .02 cents...bite the bullet and buy a set off e-bay and throw yours under the bench.
 
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 12:04 PM
  #15  
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This is really an easy job... if you have some patience and the right tools. Take the leg off. Since the stud is broken and not a flush break, you need to to center punch the stud so you can start a small drill bit. 3/16th or 1/8" to make a pilot hole. USE LH (left handed) drill bits with a reversable drill. After the pilot hole is done, move up in sizes to the largest screw extractor size that is practical. Many times the drill bit is enough but since it's got threadlocker that won't happen. Once you get to the point of using the screw extractor, apply some heat to the leg around the stud. Heat will release the threadlocker compound and you can turn the stud out. I typicall use a heat gun. Using the right tools makes the job simple. Left handed drill bits, screw extractor and good tap handle. One last thing, if you're having trouble with the center punch and getting the small drill bit started, the use of a dremel with a tiny carbide cone bit will do the trick. Patience is the key.
 
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 12:21 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by VaFatboy45
The parts guy at the Harley shop said that it's threaded up in there too. Any truth to that? He had to order me one so couldn't show me. Where would I apply the heat if I tried your last method grf? Directly to the bolt from the bottom? That looks like the only choice that I have left. Thanks again for all of your help.

Mike
The other end probably looks like what is sticking out of the good one. You have the worst case you could have. It would be best if you had a good welder who could get a good bead on 5/16 bolt that have been beveled to a 3/32 x 45 degree. Then you could throw the heat to this and let it wick up the stud. The stud has red locktite and probably is shouldered. It would be best if you could get a hole through it also. It can be saved if you have enough time. Even if you do not weld, get a hole in it, drive a screw in it and heat the screw, pull the screw out and use the ezout. It will get loose with heat. I was taking an exhaust stud off a Honda (one of those that has the spring on it for a flex) Hit it with my in-pact and it broke just like your case. Hit it with heat (of course here I did not have to worry about a finish) The stud screwed out with my fingers.
 
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 07:02 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by VaFatboy45
The parts guy at the harley shop said that it's threaded up in there too. Any truth to that? He had to order me one so couldn't show me.
Yes, this is what it looks like:

Take your time, follow Blue SOG's advice, and you'll be fine. You might even get lucky and find that the frictional heat generated by the drill bit also releases the threadlock.
 
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 07:24 PM
  #18  
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Where are you located? I've got two sets of reverse twist drill bits that get used only occassionally at work. And they've done the job more than once.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 07:24 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Blue SOG
This is really an easy job... if you have some patience and the right tools. Take the leg off. Since the stud is broken and not a flush break, you need to to center punch the stud so you can start a small drill bit. 3/16th or 1/8" to make a pilot hole. USE LH (left handed) drill bits with a reversable drill. After the pilot hole is done, move up in sizes to the largest screw extractor size that is practical. Many times the drill bit is enough but since it's got threadlocker that won't happen. Once you get to the point of using the screw extractor, apply some heat to the leg around the stud. Heat will release the threadlocker compound and you can turn the stud out. I typicall use a heat gun. Using the right tools makes the job simple. Left handed drill bits, screw extractor and good tap handle. One last thing, if you're having trouble with the center punch and getting the small drill bit started, the use of a dremel with a tiny carbide cone bit will do the trick. Patience is the key.
What he said...and don't go crazy with the heat.
 
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