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Torque specs are deceptive. Part of the issue is when covers start to warp because they were overtorqued and then didn't seal right. When A bike is cold, it has different characteristics than when it's hot. A torque wrench will help you tighten to proper specs for the bolt and the expansion as things heat up. I would definitely say yes.
Actually it has everything to do w/ money. Otherwise there wouldn't need to be a bunch of justification; everybody would already have a good one. It's all about the money, when it comes down to a choice of a Snap-On, an HF, or none.
If you're gonna get a torque wrench then you might as well get a good one because your life and/or the life of your passenger may depend on a properly torqued fastener. JMO
I definately wouldn't assemble anything involving a gasket or a bearing and not use torque specs, but then again I also assume the engineers that designed the thing know a little more about it than I do. I don't think they give torque specs simply for the heck of it or to confuse the guy working on the bike. I think they list them for a reason. At any rate, I torque to whatever they say. If there is a range, I try to tighten it to the midpoint of the range. Silly me, I also follow the tightning sequence if they list one.
Assuming these engineers know what they are doing? They have yet to fix the moisture problem in all the speedos and fuel gauges! How many years have they had to fix this problem? IMO its kinda embarrasing.
Actually it has everything to do w/ money. Otherwise there wouldn't need to be a bunch of justification; everybody would already have a good one. It's all about the money, when it comes down to a choice of a Snap-On, an HF, or none.
There are plenty of options besides just Snap-on and HF.
Just my opinion but the smaller stuff with gaskets between the covers and in aluminum you do not as long as you do it in the correct sequence and recheck later. With locktite you do not re torque. However things like clutch hub nut, compensator sprockets, drive pulley bolts, brake rotors anything critical should be torqued. I seldom us my inch pound wrench but the 250 one gets used. Softails do not vibrate, so they are less prone to loosen fasteners. Dodged my friends Roadking horn cover. However my other friends Softail fiberglass bag brace broke and dropped down and that startled me.
Actually it has everything to do w/ money. Otherwise there wouldn't need to be a bunch of justification; everybody would already have a good one. It's all about the money, when it comes down to a choice of a Snap-On, an HF, or none.
LOL... I'm simply asking about whether or not the torque specs and stuff are really important or if it's overkill. You know, kinda like asking if you really need to change your oil after every 5,000 miles and how some people think it's not needed that often (or even more often.)
I'm not made of money, but $100 for a wrench isn't out of the realm of things I can buy.
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