Do I really need a torque wrench?
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 9
From: Marina del Rey
Understand that, just because a torque range is listed, it does not mandate the use of a torque wrench. This is information. Some ranges given are so wide as to make it obvious that eye-balling is OK. Likewise, common sense and previous F-ups tell us that there are many fasteners whose precise torque is not critical, but whose maximum torque should be severely limited due to fragile materials, for example a plastic lens or soft die-casting.
The most torque-sensitive fasteners will generally be those used to assemble ultra-precision parts (cylinder head,...); highly stressed assemblies, particularly containing dissimilar metals (rear pulley,...); where effective sealing of mating surfaces is important (primary cover,...); and where a moving fit is achieved (steering head,...)...
Once you have the two necessary torque wrenches, it takes hardly any longer to set fasteners to the proper torque--literally a snap! One advantage is that, when checking critical fastener torque, it is EZ to discover a loose fastener, then take steps to determine why (no Loctite?,...).
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,993
Likes: 57
From: St. Louis, MO
This is a good question.
Understand that, just because a torque range is listed, it does not mandate the use of a torque wrench. This is information. Some ranges given are so wide as to make it obvious that eye-balling is OK. Likewise, common sense and previous F-ups tell us that there are many fasteners whose precise torque is not critical, but whose maximum torque should be severely limited due to fragile materials, for example a plastic lens or soft die-casting.
The most torque-sensitive fasteners will generally be those used to assemble ultra-precision parts (cylinder head,...); highly stressed assemblies, particularly containing dissimilar metals (rear pulley,...); where effective sealing of mating surfaces is important (primary cover,...); and where a moving fit is achieved (steering head,...)...
Once you have the two necessary torque wrenches, it takes hardly any longer to set fasteners to the proper torque--literally a snap! One advantage is that, when checking critical fastener torque, it is EZ to discover a loose fastener, then take steps to determine why (no Loctite?,...).
Understand that, just because a torque range is listed, it does not mandate the use of a torque wrench. This is information. Some ranges given are so wide as to make it obvious that eye-balling is OK. Likewise, common sense and previous F-ups tell us that there are many fasteners whose precise torque is not critical, but whose maximum torque should be severely limited due to fragile materials, for example a plastic lens or soft die-casting.
The most torque-sensitive fasteners will generally be those used to assemble ultra-precision parts (cylinder head,...); highly stressed assemblies, particularly containing dissimilar metals (rear pulley,...); where effective sealing of mating surfaces is important (primary cover,...); and where a moving fit is achieved (steering head,...)...
Once you have the two necessary torque wrenches, it takes hardly any longer to set fasteners to the proper torque--literally a snap! One advantage is that, when checking critical fastener torque, it is EZ to discover a loose fastener, then take steps to determine why (no Loctite?,...).
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 9
From: Marina del Rey
Attaboy!
W/ prices like that on quality tools, why would anyone NOT do the job correctly and professionally? There is the added bonus which comes in the satisfaction of a job well done.
My 1/2"-drive ft/lbs was bought on sale at Sears. My 3/8"-drive in/lbs Snap-On was bought like-new-in-case off C/L. In use, there is an unimaginable difference between the two (better is better), but both do the job well.
Sgt--Thanks.
W/ prices like that on quality tools, why would anyone NOT do the job correctly and professionally? There is the added bonus which comes in the satisfaction of a job well done.
My 1/2"-drive ft/lbs was bought on sale at Sears. My 3/8"-drive in/lbs Snap-On was bought like-new-in-case off C/L. In use, there is an unimaginable difference between the two (better is better), but both do the job well.
Sgt--Thanks.
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