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Battery won't charge. Something wrong with charging system?

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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 07:17 AM
  #11  
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Aftermarket battery. Will charge the battery, check the cables, and if check engine light and battery light still on, will take it to the indy.
 
Old Jul 7, 2011 | 09:58 AM
  #12  
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The problem isn't with your battery. Either the stator has gone south or you have a bad ground at the stator or rectifier. And yes, contrary to some folks opinions, it is always a good idea to have a service manual handy. Even if you don't do your own work, having a service manual around will allow you to do some personal research into the problem. The manual will provide you with an understanding of what the issue is and the terminology associated with the problem. Having a basic understanding of what the problem may be might just save you some money at the shop. At the very least, it will allow you to avoid the embarrassment of having to use words like "thingy", and "dohickey" when the service manager asks you to describe the problem.
 

Last edited by AZRenegade; Jul 7, 2011 at 10:18 AM.
Old Jul 7, 2011 | 10:16 AM
  #13  
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quick and lazy here, but put the volt ohm meter on DC. put the red lead on the positive of battery and black on negative when the bike is running. voltage should be 13 to 15 VDC.
if below 13 or above 15 could be the regulator.
I used to check the stator by starting the motor and unplugging at the front of engine case and put the meter on AC and at 1000 rpm 16-20 v, at 2000rpm 32-40 and 3000 rpm 48-60 VAC.
this will eliminate the regulator and stator. If not these check for loose connection or short.
Good luck and hope this helped some. At least thats what this forum used to be for.
 
Old Jul 7, 2011 | 10:23 AM
  #14  
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Magnets breaking loose in the rotor is my guess! Happened to me.
 
Old Jul 7, 2011 | 11:04 AM
  #15  
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Take battery complete out and charge it 24 hours with small amp battery charger. Let it sit about 24 hrs and carry it in Auto-zone so they can load it and do the free test on their fancy machine. If OK.
Get yourself a cheap $10-$20 DC volt meter at Harbor Freight.
Put the battery back in and check the reading. Shout be about 12.6 volts on the freshly charged battery that has set and normalized.
Start it and rev to about 2500 should be real close to 15 volts from the alternator which since it was just freshly charged will drop back slightly in a little while. Note while cranking voltage will drop to about 9.8

Remember

12.8 = full charged

12.6 = 75%

12.3 = 50%

12. =25%


Cost $20. Learning? invaluable!

You keep abusing like it like you are and you are going to take out the alternator/voltage regulator. The lower the voltage, the more amps it tries to pull.

If your new battery is good and I would think it was but still would have it checked. If it is and hooked up with key off and it draws down, bet it fails the 15 volt test above and that it is a diode in the regulator gone bad. With 1 bad diode charge volts will be reduce by about 3V. it will let current go back through the wrong way and kill the battery setting with the key off just like a short.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jul 7, 2011 at 11:13 AM.
Old Jul 7, 2011 | 03:37 PM
  #16  
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He could jump start it with a battery out of a diesel truck and be just fine. A 12 volt battery is a 12 volt battery, it's only going to take what it needs.


Originally Posted by firefighter616
Jump starting with a car.
Not a good idea
load test battery first
then open service manual to charging system and proceed from there
OR call dealer and have them diagnose and fix over the phone
whole lot easier than diagnosing over the net
 
Old Jul 7, 2011 | 06:56 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by grf000
If it is and hooked up with key off and it draws down, bet it fails the 15 volt test above and that it is a diode in the regulator gone bad. With 1 bad diode charge volts will be reduce by about 3V. it will let current go back through the wrong way and kill the battery setting with the key off just like a short.
If it's a bad diode, do I need to replace the whole regulator?
 
Old Jul 7, 2011 | 07:19 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by edugatyr
If it's a bad diode, do I need to replace the whole regulator?
The regulator on the lower front is a sealed solid state. Pretty much not repairable. My opinion is bad batteries is what takes them out or putting a lot of extra load on them. Not a lot of reserve built in them. Like dstone says it does not make any difference what you jump it with as long as you hook it up correctly. If you reverse the jump the diodes will go. What I think firefighter is saying and I agree trouble is if you let the battery sits till it dies or it's just worn out and you jump it, sure its going to start but the trouble is there is a good chance battery is bad by then and you are frying the alternator or voltage regulator trying to charge it. If it was me I would not jump it unless its an emergency and I had to move the bike. If it was me I would do what I said in my past post 16. Alternator is one expensive replacement and regulator is not cheap but least it's not a pain to take off. The alternator is actually an easy check with a regular AC meter with it unplugged from regulator. You actual need a special meter to check regulator properly but ifs letting correct voltage come thru its probably OK.
To summerize jumping it does not hurt, charging a bad or completely dead battery with your bike charging system may.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jul 7, 2011 at 07:36 PM.
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 07:21 PM
  #19  
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Yes, to the diode, it's a sealed unit. Go to the DIY forum and look up charging system testing. You really need to get a service manual and become real intimate with it.
 
Old Jul 7, 2011 | 08:44 PM
  #20  
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What does the service manual say? Have you followed th correct diagnostic procedures?
 



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