Using regular 20w-50 oil
The tough part about the big oil debate is no one really knows what additives are in each brand's engine oil and what purpose the additive serves. Also, what type of engine was the oil tested in? How hot did the oil get before breaking down? If this information was public (and put in terms you or I could understand) then I could give you a solid answer.
I know for a fact the H-D oil is tested in H-D motorcycle engines with millions of miles under its belt...and if you ride 5,000 miles per year...you're saving what...$150 by using brand x? And if your gamble is wrong, you're out $3500 or so? In all respect...oil isn't that expensive and it is kind of an important thing to have. Get the stuff we know works.
I know for a fact the H-D oil is tested in H-D motorcycle engines with millions of miles under its belt...and if you ride 5,000 miles per year...you're saving what...$150 by using brand x? And if your gamble is wrong, you're out $3500 or so? In all respect...oil isn't that expensive and it is kind of an important thing to have. Get the stuff we know works.
Now this has been beat to death. Use whatever you want and change the oil regularly. Your bike really won't know the difference.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,131
Likes: 51,465
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Been using Castrol GTX straight & multi's forever in my bikes with no issues . I worked in a small company that mixed & packaged oil products late 80's , heads up during any given production run there be at least 4 major well known and a good dozen off brand names being bottled out to the same mixing batch . You want to know what's in your particular favorite look for the API service ratings on top like SE , SL , CH , ect. those are standards for what that grade was designed to do in conditions & engine type and there is a difference .
http://www.aa1car.com/library/api_mo...ifications.htm
http://www.aa1car.com/library/api_mo...ifications.htm
There is a post above. It is the best possible advice. If you are concerned have it analyzed. Then you know for sure and can make and educated decision based upon the analysis and schedule an oil change interval accordingly.
Otherwise 3000 miles is safe on dino and 5000 on synthetic. It's a safe interval on both ends.
Doesnt really matter,Harley built these bikes to break anyway and none of us are satisfied with a stock bike. Use whatever you want.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,131
Likes: 51,465
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
I run Amsoil, for the amount of money I have into the bike, the Amsoil is not much. and its recommended by my local dearer, I buy it else where tho cause its an extra 1.50 a qt at the dealer. BUT, if I were to run dino, Valvoline makes a really good in expensive MC oil. Used it in the past and was happy.
20w-50 is 20w-50, whether it is dino, synthetic, or specially treated lard. While there may be a reason for what you are hearing, it is not because synthetic is "thinner" oil, unless the rate of change in viscosity versus temperature is different between the oils you are using. And in that case, how do you know whether the dino oil's greater viscosity is not causing extra wear at start-up?
Hey twizted. From what I have been reading Dino oil is quieter because there is an atomic attraction at a molecular level to metal.I am serious. I couldn't make this **** up. The synth oils (group 3 and 4)because of the level of refinement have this "magnetism" removed. Now the group 5 oils like red-line(PAO based) seem to also have this molecular attraction.
I have been doing alot of reading on this. It's been -40 and can't work so been on the computer alot. Now wear metals seem to jump significantly when going from Dino to synth for the first few oil change intervals then the wear metals level off. Conventional oils don't seem to have this fluctuation.
I am a carpenter and couldn't make this up if I tried. Blackstone labs and their Canadian counterparts have written about these fluctuations and seem to think that wear metals jump because synthetic creates a thinner but more consistent cushion on moving parts but Dino due to it's inconsistent molecule structure creates a thicker cushion but more volatile.
I am not a scientist,just telling ya what I read.
I have been doing alot of reading on this. It's been -40 and can't work so been on the computer alot. Now wear metals seem to jump significantly when going from Dino to synth for the first few oil change intervals then the wear metals level off. Conventional oils don't seem to have this fluctuation.
I am a carpenter and couldn't make this up if I tried. Blackstone labs and their Canadian counterparts have written about these fluctuations and seem to think that wear metals jump because synthetic creates a thinner but more consistent cushion on moving parts but Dino due to it's inconsistent molecule structure creates a thicker cushion but more volatile.
I am not a scientist,just telling ya what I read.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,131
Likes: 51,465
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
I have no reason to doubt any of that , we pulled weekly samples of our turbine oil in high speed 1250hp compressors for checking . At 44,000rpm and the impellers actually run on a high pressure oil film not the hard parts you really want to know what's going on long before it could begin to be a problem . Another factor is your enviorment extreme , metal changes molecular properties with sub zero temps . There's big science behind all that , I have a good working knowledge but alot is way over my pay grade .
oil + trany change
I have been bored today also, and with a foot of snow on the ground and a ton of SALT on the roads, well you get the picture. The new CVO FLSTSE3 came w/syn3 and will stay in there till I get the break in done and then I will change to this trio. It has worked for my last 3 rides and 100k w/o any kind of oil related
problem, and I can change it myself and know it's done right, not mention the $250 that I will save. . . .
IMHO
http://
problem, and I can change it myself and know it's done right, not mention the $250 that I will save. . . .
IMHO
http://
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Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,131
Likes: 51,465
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
I have been bored today also, and with a foot of snow on the ground and a ton of SALT on the roads, well you get the picture. The new CVO FLSTSE3 came w/syn3 and will stay in there till I get the break in done and then I will change to this trio. It has worked for my last 3 rides and 100k w/o any kind of oil related
problem, and I can change it myself and know it's done right, not mention the $250 that I will save. . . .
IMHO
http://
problem, and I can change it myself and know it's done right, not mention the $250 that I will save. . . .
IMHO
http://
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,705
Likes: 22,718
From: Farmington ,MS
Some people do. There are only two kinds of oil...clean and dirty. If you keep clean oil in your motor, you will have a hard time wearing it out. I have been running Castrol GTX 20/50 car oil in my 84 EVO for 15 years as did the previous owner. When I bought the bike mileage was unknown and it was already on it's second speedometer. I tore the motor down thinking it probably needed some work...with exception of the rocker arms, there was no wear to be found....everything miked within spec. I added some roller rockers. replaced the cam and lifters, lapped the valves and ran a ball hone through the cylinders...bead-blasted the cases so it looked new, and put it back together. Fast forward 15 years...still runs like a champ, doesn't smoke, and uses 1/2 a quart between it's 3k oil changes...it is on it's third speedometer and second transmission (after rebuilding the first one twice for leaks) and the motor still has not been rebuilt. I also have a 27 year old motor-home and a 23 year old riding lawnmower, with original untouched motors. You can spend bucks on fancy name BS oils or change your oil religiously...your call