S&S super E
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,125
Likes: 51,434
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Common , it's the way the intake system works side draft instead of down like a car and one cylinder pulling an intake draft , theres alway a bit of valve overlap to on that stroke too . Not a lot that can be done with the E and that , I do on some bikes put a 1" spacer between the manifold & carb that does perk performance but sticks the carb out like old Super B and most don't like that .
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 4
From: Victoria, Australia
I have that spacer on my setup on the Evo. I didn't really notice the extra width as I have a 6 gallon tank.
Even with the spacer I get a little back spitting-- overlap from the Woods W6 cam...
Even with the spacer I get a little back spitting-- overlap from the Woods W6 cam...
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 18,575
Likes: 4
From: Norfolk, VA
Bout ready to give up on this carb and et a different type done every thing everyone has said and adjusted it like s&s says to do but it still stalls,when the bike is warmed up if i crack the throttle real fast the engine will die if i roll the throttle it's fine,if i leave the enricher on and crack th throttle it responds great ,I have check for leaks sprayed wd40 and no leaks this carb has done this from day and it was brand new
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,125
Likes: 51,434
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,825
Likes: 2,141
From: Hope Mills NC, bye CA!!
My last super E had a rich condition that I couldnt get rid of....new carb (same) and its been running great. I sold the old one for parts on ebay but got damn near what a new one cost, within a hundred bucks anyway.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 18,575
Likes: 4
From: Norfolk, VA
I had an issue 2-years ago where the nozzle loosened up (the brass fitting the main jet threads into) and dumped way too much fuel into the carb throat...I found the problem by removing the air filter cover and watching the fuel into the carb throat...The tricky part was it looked like it was coming from the accelerator pump nozzle....Live and learn!!
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 4
From: Victoria, Australia
Bout ready to give up on this carb and et a different type done every thing everyone has said and adjusted it like s&s says to do but it still stalls,when the bike is warmed up if i crack the throttle real fast the engine will die if i roll the throttle it's fine,if i leave the enricher on and crack th throttle it responds great ,I have check for leaks sprayed wd40 and no leaks this carb has done this from day and it was brand new
For a stock bike the .0295 slow jet should be fine if not a little too big. I would start with a .72 on the main jet or around that but no bigger to start with. If you have an .0295 in it now go up to .031 and run it.
You gotta read those plugs to know for sure when your about right. Browny/tan doesn't happen with todays fuel, but if you can get them to look medium grey your pretty right.
These carbs are dead simple but you have to adjust by the book and don't move to the next area until you have the first one right.
Strip it and check for clogs/debris and blow out the orifices with clean air. There is an orifice that you aren't suppose to blow clean but I can't recall which one--it's in the S&S book though.
Keep us posted....
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Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 18,575
Likes: 4
From: Norfolk, VA
You have just provided the clue. If it runs better with the enrichener on it's too lean, and if it's too lean on the slow jet no amount of accel pump adjustment will make it right.
For a stock bike the .0295 slow jet should be fine if not a little too big. I would start with a .72 on the main jet or around that but no bigger to start with. If you have an .0295 in it now go up to .031 and run it.
You gotta read those plugs to know for sure when your about right. Browny/tan doesn't happen with todays fuel, but if you can get them to look medium grey your pretty right.
These carbs are dead simple but you have to adjust by the book and don't move to the next area until you have the first one right.
Strip it and check for clogs/debris and blow out the orifices with clean air. There is an orifice that you aren't suppose to blow clean but I can't recall which one--it's in the S&S book though.
Keep us posted....
For a stock bike the .0295 slow jet should be fine if not a little too big. I would start with a .72 on the main jet or around that but no bigger to start with. If you have an .0295 in it now go up to .031 and run it.
You gotta read those plugs to know for sure when your about right. Browny/tan doesn't happen with todays fuel, but if you can get them to look medium grey your pretty right.
These carbs are dead simple but you have to adjust by the book and don't move to the next area until you have the first one right.
Strip it and check for clogs/debris and blow out the orifices with clean air. There is an orifice that you aren't suppose to blow clean but I can't recall which one--it's in the S&S book though.
Keep us posted....