Hey all ... Just have a "general" question. I just got my new ride (2012 iron) about 3 weeks ago and although I've gotten some decent rides in, sadly it's time to put 'er to bed for the winter. I just picked up a standard fuel stabilizer at my local big box store and I'm wondering if I should consider something better. I'm totally new to this sh*t, so I don't know if some are better than others. Just wanna make sure I don't put something in the tank I may regret later. And if anyone has some additional thoughts or tips to consider for winter storage, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!

 

Stabil Stabilizer. Usually better than the others. Will stabilize the gas for about 4-6 months. If you haven't done the 1000 mile service I'd do that to change all the oils. Put battery tender on and your good to go

 

What you gonna use? I use Stabil-Blue for marine! I have carbs so I can run tho dry before bed. (Shut off Petcock).

Here in Chicago what I may think was bed-time, turned out to more riding time... i'm more use to the cold or I want to ride more! Jezz 30* doesn't feel that(like it use too) cold.

 

I use Stabil or Motomaster(being from TO you'll know that one), both have worked well for me. Put your bike on a jack if you have one and plug in a trickle charger. I use the Harley breathable cover but a sheet will work just fine. Don't use an outdoor cover indoors, it has to breathe or you'll get moisture.

 

Thanks for the tips ... The brand name of the stabilizer I got is called LUCAS, says it's good for 2 and 4 cycle engines. But it sounds like I should get the Stabil Stabilizer. I'm storing it in an underground garage, and the cover I got is HD P/N 98705-85VB. Says it's indoor/outdoor and breathable, so I'm assuming it should prevent any moisture build up.
I don't have a jack, but is it true that parking it on a wood slat helps prevent any tire bulging or flat spots?

 

Only keeps the tires out of any standing water. You'll be fine if it just sits for the winter.

I know it's your baby. Don't over think it. Good your getting the fuel condition done. That's the main issue.

My 25 y.o. ride has gone through many winters in an un-heated garage and even in the open based on the previous owner letting it sit out and letting the paint fade away.(was Red) Still running good w/ just a hint of rust.

 

I haven't used fuel stabilizers since the late 70's/early 80's. They put that stuff in the gas, along with tons of other detergents and crap, so the gas coming from the pump is all filled with that stuff already.

Decades ago, putting engines away for the winter would require stabilizer if you were leaving gas in there..else in the spring time it would be a pain in the **** to start up, and require cleaning out. So yeah back then I'd always use stabilizers.

But sometime in the late 80's I started getting told that gas comes so packed with that stuff now, adding stabilizers isn't needed anymore...you're just putting MORE into what's already in there. So I stopped using it for a few winters in a row...and low and behold...my engines would fire right up in the spring, no problem! Including other engines....boat outboards, tractors, whatever. If stabilizer was still needed..and I stopped using it, they would be a pain to start in the spring...as they were back in the 70's and earlier. But they still started up just fine.

The proof is in the pudding right there for me.

Plus...that the engine usually runs less than optimal on that first spring tank of gas with stabilizer in it..until it' gets to E and you fill it up with fresh gas. So not using additional stabilizer, I don't have to deal with that..she runs fine on that existing tank of gas.

It's your wallet, if it makes you feel good..put it in. I'm just relating what I've been told, and what I tested...and found to be true. "It's already in there right from the pump".

I just have a battery trickle charger...every 6 weeks or so I'll clip it to the battery for a weekend stretch..and then disconnect it. No battery tender, I just use the old school method. Always been that way with my summer stuff batteries (including boats, tractors)...they've survived just fine and are ready to rock 'n roll in the spring. Although I often ride the bike at least once a month in the winter if I get a shot at clear roads.

 

I don't do a thing except keep the battery charged. No stabil, no changing oil before winter, nothing. I change the oil every 5000 miles period. Don't care what season it is. I follow other maintenance; i.e., fork oil every 20,000 miles or so. It's in an unheated garage attached to the house. I don't even cover it. I just keep it away from the windows so the sun doesn't directly hit it. I keep it waxed and it looks great. Almost 20,000 miles on my current bike and she runs better and better every day.

 

You have to get the weight of the bike off the tires to prevent flat spots. Time to invest in a M/C jack! 1.) Jack the bike up and let the safety catch set, 2.) Release the pressure in the hydraulic portion of the jack so that the saftey catch engages, 3.) Lightly pressurize the hydraulic piston just enough to keep a very minor amount of pressure on the seal inside the jack. 4.) Wait for Spring.

 

I'd say, if you can't get the tires off the ground, try to move the bike around a couple of times. Also, I try to put a piece of cardboard or something between the rubber tires and concrete garage floor since the concrete will leach the moisture out of the rubber tires and cause premature dry rot.