Winterizing question
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 699
Likes: 13
From: Northeast
Put some Sta-Bil in the tank with fresh fuel, change the oil and filter, wash and dry and then put on a battery tender. I don't worry much about the tires on concrete as I seem to wear them out within 18 months anyways. Here's a link to faq for Sta-Bil which might give you some more information.
http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/faq.aspx
http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/faq.aspx
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 12,653
Likes: 18
From: Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
You have to get the weight of the bike off the tires to prevent flat spots. Time to invest in a M/C jack! 1.) Jack the bike up and let the safety catch set, 2.) Release the pressure in the hydraulic portion of the jack so that the saftey catch engages, 3.) Lightly pressurize the hydraulic piston just enough to keep a very minor amount of pressure on the seal inside the jack. 4.) Wait for Spring.
I'd say, if you can't get the tires off the ground, try to move the bike around a couple of times. Also, I try to put a piece of cardboard or something between the rubber tires and concrete garage floor since the concrete will leach the moisture out of the rubber tires and cause premature dry rot.
Are there any "recent" studies out there that prove this is necessary? Something in this century preferably, that would apply to modern tires?
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 779
Likes: 4
From: Upstate New York
My tires aren't on the bike long enough to worry about dry rot. That would probably take 10 years. Maybe do all that stuff to a garage queen. If you ride every chance you get just park the thing and wait for a nice day and ride the heck out of it!
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
From: Southeastern, PA
Here is how I handle winter... Below 40F I put it on the battery tender and wait for the temperature to go above 40F. When it gets above 40F I ride unless the roads have salt on them. If there is salt on the road I wait for rain followed by temps in the 40's and then ride. I do keep the gas tank topped off.
Works for me.
Works for me.
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
You have to get the weight of the bike off the tires to prevent flat spots. Time to invest in a M/C jack! 1.) Jack the bike up and let the safety catch set, 2.) Release the pressure in the hydraulic portion of the jack so that the saftey catch engages, 3.) Lightly pressurize the hydraulic piston just enough to keep a very minor amount of pressure on the seal inside the jack. 4.) Wait for Spring.
I manage a new car dealership and we've had cars sit in one spot for months at a time and never heard any complaints about flat spots. And a car weighs more than a bike obviously.
Come to think of it, never heard of a dealership putting fuel stablizer in any of their new cars or trucks either when they sat... or fresh oil....and never heard of one coming back in because of either problem.
For the past 35 years all I've been doing is running a tender on the battery (usually) and have always been good to go. I do suggest a good clean beforehand and a breathable cover as well as a well ventilated and dry storage area.
Keep it simple, top off the tank and don't believe 99% of what you read including my crap.
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Novice
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Wow ... Thanks for all the great tips! Oppirs, she is my baby ... and you're right, it seems i am over thinking it. Sounds like i'll be fine with the sticking to the basics. Again, thanks everyone, for the advice ... much appreciated.
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