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The product used, while important, is nowhere near as important at the prep. In most cases, etching won't create a deep enough profile. The area needs to be clean, grease free, and have a texture at least as rough as 100 grit sandpaper.
I ground mine with a diamond grinder and put down 2 coats gray epoxy with black, white, and orange vinyl chips with a coat of clear over it. It has been down 3 years and with the exception of a few pops from the concrete, it is perfect. No tire pick up and no chips.
Product was from Rustoleum.
By the way Dynawideglider I've been in the painting industry for 20 years and if you think a pro won't care or won't do a better job, you are mistaken. A professional knows what needs to be done so it works, that's how I make my living.
To determine if you can coat the surface, tape a foot square piece of plastic to the floor completely covering the edges so it is sealed. Do this in several areas and let it sit for a day or to. Remove the plastic and see if there is a color difference. If the concrete under the plastic is darker than the surrounding area it means moisture is coming up and you should not paint the floor or the moisture will push off the coating. Some stains will work since they do not build up on the surface an form films like paints do.
Spartan Chemicals used to have an epoxy paint that was good. I sold it to an airport to use on hanger floors. 5 years after they used it they were still happy with it. I changed jobs so I can't tell you how it was after that.
My garage is brick red carpeted, and it works pretty well for me. Very comfortable if I hafta sit or lay down on the floor, warm even barefoot in the winter, and makes my bikes feel like they are inside.
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