Long term storage -- need advice
I have storage unit to put my bike in.
My plan is:
1. Fill the tank with fuel, then close off the fuel valve and run it until there is no fuel in the bowl. THen put in fuel stablizer.
2. Pull the battery. I'll buy a new one if I have to when I return. I don't have power in the unit or time to buy a charger.
3. Put the bike up on a jack.
4. Throw on dust cover.
5. Lock storage unit and double check that my insurance is paid through.
Is there anything else I am missing? Should I lube or oil anything?
And when I return, if the battery kicks it over, am I good to ride then? Or do I need to drain/change all fluids etc?
Thanks for the help ahead of time. I'll be busy in the next few weeks preparing so I do not know how much time I will have to chat.
. Extended Term Storage (240+ days to a decade) --
assumes you will NOT be starting the bike up during that time
If bike will be parked indoors in a semi-sealed environment (garage, den), obtain a breathable dust cover;
If bike will be parked in an out-building with a sealed cement or sealed stone floor (unheated garden shed, tool room, empty warehouse or self-store space), obtain a weatherproof bike cover.
If bike will be parked anywhere with dirt, sand, unsealed concrete, patio tile, or wood floors, or parked outdoors on any surface, obtain a weatherproof bike cover, a 25' x 10' or larger roll of construction plastic (at least 4 mils thick), 10 tubes of model aircraft glue, at least 4 bricks or cinder blocks, and 20 lbs of cat litter (cheapest type available). Place a section of the construction plastic on the ground where you intend to park the bike and cover with the cat litter; this will act as the "sealed" floor for your storage and you will park the bike on it.
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¡ FUEL SYSTEM :
Obtain a premium-quality fuel stabilizer (auto parts store or hardware store), and add the appropriate amount to your tank just before topping off with premium grade gasoline.
Top off the gas tank to chock-full, taking the time to burp it and wait for it to settle, then adding more. This will help prevent rust from building in your gas tank by eliminating any air which might cause condensation to form at a later time. It is recommended you do this in the spot you intend to store the bike, after the last time it runs.
Smear rubber gasket on underside of tank cap lightly with Vaseline or other brand of petroleum jelly. This will help prevent it from drying out and reduce evaporation of gas.
Set Fuel Petcock to "OFF". [/ul]
Disconnect fuel lines beyond fuel petcock and drain. Drain float bowls of carburetors.
¡ TIRES & PARKING :
Pump your tires up to the maximum pressure they are rated for according to the sidewall rating by the manufacturer (usually higher than the recommended pressure you drive on by 6 to 10 PSI or so). This will help keep the tires "round" and assist in preventing flat spots.
If you have a kick stand but no center stand, park it on the kick stand.
AND: Cut 2x4 chocks to support your front forks, so your front tire is 1/2" to 3/4"off the ground.
Cover entire exposed metal surface of wheel with a layer of automotive grease or petroleum jelly, or thick long-term storage spray oil, including all spokes if you have wire spoke wheels. Do not get grease/jelly/spray oil on tires.
GOAL: You want to get the entire cycle off the ground before long extended storage. This will prevent a lot of long-term headaches. Do not support on stones or bricks.[/ul]
¡ BRAKES:
Flush brake lines completely using brand new fluid. Coat exterior of hoses with a light layer of Vaseline or other petroleum jelly to form a protective layer between the air and the lines.
If your bike has disk brakes (step 1): remove calipers from rotors (do not disconnect the brake lines), and remove pads from the calipers. Coat backing plate of pads with a thin layer of petroleum jelly. Store pads (face-to-face) and caliper bolts in zip-lock bag or aluminum foil, and attach to bike or wheels with plastic wire-tie or safety wire (so you can't lose them over the storage period).
If your bike has disk brakes (step 2): Clean exposed portions of the sides of the caliper cylinders of all dirt. Coat exposed cylinder portions with a light coating of petroleum jelly, then using an appropriate tool (such as a block of wood and a c-clamp), force the caliper cylinders back into the caliper body all the way. This will help ensure they do not get




