Winter storage?
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Kenai, Alaska
Winter storage?
Well as it is september now, the riding season here in Alaska is gonna be coming to an end here shortly 
Since i just got the bike at the beginning of this year I have yet to store it for a winter. Just looking for some advice on what I should do to get it properly winterized. I already have the battery tender, do I need to keep that on it all winter long? Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Since i just got the bike at the beginning of this year I have yet to store it for a winter. Just looking for some advice on what I should do to get it properly winterized. I already have the battery tender, do I need to keep that on it all winter long? Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,828
Likes: 8
Add some Stabil to the tank and let her run for ten to fifteen minutes. Push the bike forward every week or so, then back, a foot should do it, to keep the tires from flat spotting. Wash it thoroughly, check the fluid levels, and plug that tender in. It will not hurt a thing keeping it plugged in all winter long. Wipe on a little tire dressing on the belt to prevent drying. It is okay to do this to the tires as well, but don't touch the tread surface, sidewall only. Lastly, don't forget to flush the coolant and replace with new.
...just curious how long it took ya before you had that "wait a minute" moment on the last one. :+)
...just curious how long it took ya before you had that "wait a minute" moment on the last one. :+)
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16,320
Likes: 306
From: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
Long term storage tips.
0. Change the oils and filter.
1. Wash the bike and dry thoroughly
2. Detail (wax) the bike. Fogging the wheels, motor and chassis with WD40 will prevent corrosion.
3. Put a dab of dielectric grease on all electrical connections
4. fill fuel tank FULL and add a good fuel stabilizer
5. run bike for a few minutes to ensure stabilized fuel gets through into fuel system
-. Before you shut off the bike, take the air cleaner off, spray fogging oil through the intake for a good minute.
6. Carbed models - turn fuel petcock off and allow carb to run dry, still applying fog oil (above)
7. Air cleaner - seal the outside with plastic and tape to prevent "critters" from getting in and setting up shop. Pack some Steel Wool in the ends of the exhaust for the same reason.
8. Pull battery or prepare to place on a tender.
9. place bike in a secure dry location
10. place some scrap plywood or carpet under the tires or raise bike on jack to keep them off ground if on a concrete floor.
11. cover the bike with a breathable cover.
12. connect battery tender.
Tip: If covering the bike, a 60 watt light bulb placed on the ground under the bike will further prevent condensation if your storage area is not insulated or subject to wide temperature/humidity variations.
Tip: Fogging the bike, especially laced wheels, with WD40 works great to prevent rust & corrosion.
DO NOT start the bike occasionally to "warm it up". This promotes moisture (condensation) buildup in the motor and oil system. If you can't ride it for an hour, don't start it. If you do ride it, repeat all the above steps again.
Best Suggestion Yet......
All you northern owners.... ship the bike to one of us here in the south, make sure the keys, registration, and insurance papers are with it, and we'll keep the bike safe, and warm, and well ridden over those long cold winter months...
0. Change the oils and filter.
1. Wash the bike and dry thoroughly
2. Detail (wax) the bike. Fogging the wheels, motor and chassis with WD40 will prevent corrosion.
3. Put a dab of dielectric grease on all electrical connections
4. fill fuel tank FULL and add a good fuel stabilizer
5. run bike for a few minutes to ensure stabilized fuel gets through into fuel system
-. Before you shut off the bike, take the air cleaner off, spray fogging oil through the intake for a good minute.
6. Carbed models - turn fuel petcock off and allow carb to run dry, still applying fog oil (above)
7. Air cleaner - seal the outside with plastic and tape to prevent "critters" from getting in and setting up shop. Pack some Steel Wool in the ends of the exhaust for the same reason.
8. Pull battery or prepare to place on a tender.
9. place bike in a secure dry location
10. place some scrap plywood or carpet under the tires or raise bike on jack to keep them off ground if on a concrete floor.
11. cover the bike with a breathable cover.
12. connect battery tender.
Tip: If covering the bike, a 60 watt light bulb placed on the ground under the bike will further prevent condensation if your storage area is not insulated or subject to wide temperature/humidity variations.
Tip: Fogging the bike, especially laced wheels, with WD40 works great to prevent rust & corrosion.
DO NOT start the bike occasionally to "warm it up". This promotes moisture (condensation) buildup in the motor and oil system. If you can't ride it for an hour, don't start it. If you do ride it, repeat all the above steps again.
Best Suggestion Yet......
All you northern owners.... ship the bike to one of us here in the south, make sure the keys, registration, and insurance papers are with it, and we'll keep the bike safe, and warm, and well ridden over those long cold winter months...
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,604
Likes: 38
From: Landrum, SC , elevation 986'
LMAO.
Now there's a business venture for ya.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Elite HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 4,904
Likes: 9
From: Streetsboro, Oh
This is what I do and have had no issues at all after the winter. Right before I store it I change the oil and the primary fluid, Adjust he clutch if needed. Add some Seaform to the fuel and go ride it for a bit then fill up the tank and add a bit more Seafoam. Park the bike on the carpet in the garage that is always sits on, plug the battery tender in and put the cover over it and don't touch it till spring, Oh and clean it real good too, Then in the spring all you have to do is pull it out, wipe it off, air up the tires and you are good to go.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Upstate NY
New to bikes (bought my first, 2009 Sportster 1200L, in June this year) but have been working on cars for a while now (big VW nut)... and Seafoam will destroy the additives in your oil, as will most injector cleaners. It is recommended to run Seafoam BEFORE an oil change, not right after adding fresh oil. Also if you're adding it to the gas tank, you'd want to run that gas out before putting in new oil. Just my $0.02
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,948
Likes: 4
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Hm...last winter I just left it outside, after an oil change. Aside from a bit of rust there was nothing wrong with it when I started it up again next. Granted, that wasn't the ideal circumstance. This winter I'll be putting some fuel stabilizer in and covering it. I like having it ready and available for the more dry days.