How hard is it to change the drive belt on and ultra.

 

Outer and inner primary need to come off to get to gront pulley, which means clutch basket comes off also. Then swing arm needs to come off, although some can get the belt off with only loosening it and working belt off and then on. Rear wheel needs to be removed. Quite a bit of work replacing it. While mine was being replaced, had all the seals and primary bearings replaced as well as new primary chain.

 

I haven't had to deal with it yet but I can tell you it is a big job. I wrench on my bike all the time but that is something I would farm out.

 

It's a PITA...Along with the stuff Bodean already mentioned, you have to remove muffler, saddlebag, floorboard, etc. The upside is that you can make sure for yourself that your swingarm bushings are good, shift lever at the tranny is tight, and new gaskets are used. The dealer books the job at 8 hours labor. Myself and a very helpful, savy friend did it in four.

 

I know that I'm not looking forward to this one!

 

I had mine replaced last year when I found a rock had torn the belt.I didn't want to fool with it so I paid the dealer $600 to do it.It hurt to fork out that kind of money because of a small rock but I didn't want to be stranded on the side of the road either.

 

Big job. Basically, the entire primary has to be removed. Luckily it's not something that has to be done very often.

 

About half the bike comes apart to do it and you need air tools .

 

I replaced the final belt on my GF's 2003 Dyna Wide Glide without the use of air tools. Replacing the belt takes some time, but can be done in your garage.

 

I've recently done this on a '09 FLHT and would rate it as pretty straight forward. Hope the Ultra's the same

Points I would mention:

1. Buy the factory manual and read it.

2. Locking the clutch/compensator is nothing to worry about. Buy some ally bar off eBay. 25mm x 6mm and cut to length.

3. Make sure you have allen sockets and extension bars to remove the starter. Might be worth checking to see if the two cap heads are metric - I can't remember.

4. Have the nuts ready to assist with the removal of the swinging arm pivot shaft should they be required.

5. A couple of different loctites required.

6. No air tool required.