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I've found using redline in the trans and in the primary (two different oils!) has helped quite a bit on a number of bikes there are other brands that will do similar, I just have good access to redline, and it works well
on my 07 bagger, i run ATF (automatic trans fluid) in the primary. finding neutral is much easier, and i believe the clutches release much easier during shifts. there doesn't seem to be any downside.
I, too, have a 13 street glide, and am refraining from running ATF till warranty expires.
on my 07 bagger, i run ATF (automatic trans fluid) in the primary. finding neutral is much easier, and i believe the clutches release much easier during shifts. there doesn't seem to be any downside.
I, too, have a 13 street glide, and am refraining from running ATF till warranty expires.
I was running atf in my older bagger with a bandit clutch (recommended) since I am a Mercedes mechanic, I was using the benz synthetic atf, works quite well, might be too pricy for non MB mechanics, I got it cheaper, 8.00 ltr.
300 miles, things are stretching, moving, adjusting.
you can do it with the engine shut off, or take it back to dealer for a readjustment and pay for primary fluid twice.
I now have a 2013 Road King; this is my third touring bike and my 6th Harley I have owned. I have never had trouble with any of the other Harleys shifting into neutral and could not understand when others would complain about difficulties of shifting into neutral. Now I understand; this 2013 Road King is very difficult to shift into neutral when the engine is running. Even after 3,000+ miles, changing the transmission/primary fluids, and adjusting the clutch, it has not improved. Every once in a while I can shift into neutral with the engine running, but most if the time I shift back and forth between 1st and 2nd trying to find neutral. So now I believe its bike dependent on how easy it is to shift into neutral with the engine running.
When the engine is not running, I can just role the bike forward or backward a very small amount with clutch in or out and it will easily shift into neutral.
My bike was a pain in the butt to get to neutral until about 700-880 miles. After the 1000 miles service and trans fluid change it goes in like butter.
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My bike was a pain in the butt to get to neutral until about 700-880 miles. After the 1000 miles service and trans fluid change it goes in like butter.
Everyone I ran across that was hard to find neutral there was too much free play in the clutch and when you pulled it in it just wouldnt release quite enough. Most of 'em would clunk going into first gear. Adjustment fixed 'em all.
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