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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 11:53 PM
  #1  
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Default Enclosed trailer shopping

Considering an enclosed trailer for transporting my SG and the wife's 883 Iron. The must haves include dual torsion axles with brakes, 15" wheels, a front cargo door, e-track and tie downs, rear stab jacks, exterior LED lights and interior lighting, and a spring assist cargo door. My big question is, what size would be appropriate for this use? I'm thinking at least 7' wide, and 12', 14', or 16' length--thoughts? Also, any other must haves that anyone else can think of? Thanks in advance.
 
Old Jan 26, 2014 | 01:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Taranwanderer
Considering an enclosed trailer for transporting my SG and the wife's 883 Iron. The must haves include dual torsion axles with brakes, 15" wheels, a front cargo door, e-track and tie downs, rear stab jacks, exterior LED lights and interior lighting, and a spring assist cargo door. My big question is, what size would be appropriate for this use? I'm thinking at least 7' wide, and 12', 14', or 16' length--thoughts? Also, any other must haves that anyone else can think of? Thanks in advance.
You can do 6' wide if you stagger the bikes. 7' is obviously a lot easier. Length is up to you, I have a 12' long trailer and it more than meets my needs.

Depending on what you're towing the trailer with--I would recommend a dual axle trailer with electric brakes and get a weight distribution hitch with anti-sway bars to keep the trailer the most safe, stable, and versatile as possible.
 
Old Jan 26, 2014 | 05:02 AM
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I would go to the 7*14. I have a 7*12 and get an ultra and an X in it. But if I had more room I could get my riding gear in it. I stared out looking for the 14 foot, but got a good deal on the 12.
 
Old Jan 26, 2014 | 05:33 AM
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Just sold my 8 x12 hallmark low hauler. Pulled my ultra and wife's 1200C to fla many times. I would not go any smaller.
 
Old Jan 26, 2014 | 06:37 AM
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I have 7x12 plenty big enough but 8' would be nice if you ever wanted to haul 2 touring bikes. I've only had a bike in mine 3 times in 11 years. I did use it for work or it would have been just sitting around. They are nice to have I did go pickup a compact tractor in it once also.
 
Old Jan 26, 2014 | 09:10 AM
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Default My recomendation

1: How big of a yard do you have to put it in?
2: The lighter the better because it pulls easier.
3: No matter how long you get it, you will always wish you had another 2 foot.
4: What size vehicle do you have and what will it pull up and down a mountain?
5: Brakes & a spare.
6: V-Nose and 7' of headroom if you are going to use it for anything more than towing a bike(s).
7: an 8'-6" wide trailer has more wind resistance than a narrower trailer. Take the extra cost in fuel and divide that by the comfort and convenience that a wider trailer will provide you especially if ever thinking about camping out in it.
8: A flat deck trailer will get your two bikes there with the least amount of initial capital outlay and is cheaper on fuel. Sucks for camping out on except if it rains real hard & the ground floods out.

I have 3 different trailers. Two of which I made.

The least expensive LINK: How To Fabricate an Inexpensive Motorcycle Trailer Using an Unwanted Boat Trailer PDF Download

I used a longer home made boat trailer with 3" channel & converted it to a flat deck using 1/4: aluminum plate. It can haul 5 bikes with twin axles & I have pulled it with all of my show material & 3 HD's from Ft. Lauderdale, FL to Sturgis SD & back with a mini-van getting somewhat good fuel miliage.

I have a Featherlite 4926 24' Car hauler and it is slowly morphing from this into this undone project still in progress. It is first a mobile empty full service shop that everything wheels/carried in or out of once the destination is reached.



I would imagine your choice may lie somewhere between the three unless you want to go bigger.
 
Old Jan 26, 2014 | 09:31 AM
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A friend of mine has a 14' shark nose trailer for two bikes. He thinks the shark nose cuts the wind a bit better. If you don't want a shark nose then 12' should be good.

I do remember others saying "damn,I should have gone bigger".

You never know what you might want to haul a few years from now.
 
Old Jan 26, 2014 | 09:41 AM
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Thanks for all the replies so far.

Fast: I had considered doing what you did with the boat trailer, as I have an old pop-up camper that's no longer useful for that purpose, so I started taking it apart. But the small single axle and no brakes worried me as far as load carrying capacity and the blowout factor. Storage space in the yard isn't an issue, but the tow vehicle is--my wife's Range Rover Sport is the desired TV, and it has a towing capacity of 7k# for a braked trailer and only 1700# for a non braked trailer. Of course my Cummins Ram can pull any trailer we're talking about, but the idea is for the truck to pull the camper and her Rover to pull the bikes. I know, get a toy hauler...but wife really likes the camper we have and doesn't want to lose living space for garage space. So it's either super-lightweight open trailer like your boat conversion or enclosed with brakes. Or maybe order up a 3500# axle with brakes and use that on the pop-up frame? Decisions, decisions.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2014 | 10:17 AM
  #9  
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I will never tow with a single axle again. Tandems are just so solid and the singles seem to wander more than I like. You're asking for an expensive trailer to come with all that. Look into prolinetrailers.com. I got my 7x14 V-nose for $3700. The trailer is actually made in Indiana by Covenant (the one I bought). But it was a great trailer, so great someone just traded me a $8k dump trailer for it...lol! I bought mine in 2007 and LED wasn't a thing yet, but their new ones all come with LEDs. I swapped them out and went to auto zone and got 2 12" led stripes for the inside and that was bright as hell. You can add the tie downs and stuff yourself and save some money IMO. Here's what it looks like with my Dyna and a BMW GS1150. This trailer has springs not torsion axles, but was smooth as hell.

As you can see the extra 4 feet make a big difference (7x12 vs 7x16)



 

Last edited by JaronB; Jan 26, 2014 at 10:19 AM.
Old Jan 26, 2014 | 01:20 PM
  #10  
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Default Boat Trailer

Originally Posted by Taranwanderer
Thanks for all the replies so far.

Fast: I had considered doing what you did with the boat trailer, as I have an old pop-up camper that's no longer useful for that purpose, so I started taking it apart. But the small single axle and no brakes worried me as far as load carrying capacity and the blowout factor. Storage space in the yard isn't an issue, but the tow vehicle is--my wife's Range Rover Sport is the desired TV, and it has a towing capacity of 7k# for a braked trailer and only 1700# for a non braked trailer. Of course my Cummins Ram can pull any trailer we're talking about, but the idea is for the truck to pull the camper and her Rover to pull the bikes. I know, get a toy hauler...but wife really likes the camper we have and doesn't want to lose living space for garage space. So it's either super-lightweight open trailer like your boat conversion or enclosed with brakes. Or maybe order up a 3500# axle with brakes and use that on the pop-up frame? Decisions, decisions.
Depending on where you live, you can get a boat trailer for free. Take your time and get a wide one. Go with torsion bars even though the price is more. I have a single & dual axle trailer and the single one works just fine but would not recommend it for two HD's. Keep good quality tires on the unit and bar the unusual you should be good. Electrical brakes are good but costs money, disk calipers/rotors are better and cost even more. An aluminum deck is better than rails but cost more. Buy two spare tire mounts from HF and weld them on. I make on both of my trailers a sort of "Boat" guide as I have my training in the marine industry. I make these "Guides" to get my rear lights up high so someone has less chance to run into you from the rear or side. I weld on a plate and use (2) U-Bolts so if you/others hit something they swing away. Naturally the light brackets are welded near the top. I use 2" SS muffler tubing and have them bend it up in their tube bender.

With a wide trailer and both bikes already loaded on you should have enough room to put one of these waterproof roof carriers between the bike, bolt it down, than load it it. One that the top lifts off is better than one that hinges. They make long & narrow ones for skis. Get your stuff out of the car and into the trailer. I use the same welded on the bottom nuts with through bolts to mount my wheel chocks so I can move them around as needed and use the same mounting for this storage solution.
 



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