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Need some advice from experienced wrenches, please

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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 10:28 AM
  #11  
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Went with S&S510Gs on our bikes (02EG, 04EG an 00RG). Best mod we've done. Simple to o with goo instructions with kit. Everything you need is included, Borrow a blind bearing puller from autozone for the inner cam bearing replacement. Watch video on net and anyone can do it. Slow and follow directions.
 
Old Jul 31, 2014 | 12:04 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
I am pretty sure your Glide came with the roller chain tensioners in 2006 that will go 100K easy. Not sure why you want want to change it. Sure it's fast enough as is in the twisties. Any upgrade is just a play on words and truly all it is is a compromise.
06 EG's did not have the newer Hyd Cam-T'ers in them.. 07 first yr for touring bikes.
Think in 06 only the Dyna's got the Hyd's C-Ts



Make sure your new cams and upgrade kit have both front and rear roller chain.
Also at 25k your PushRods won't have to be replace but most DIY's install Adjustable rods and I'll also add that You SHOULD replace you lifters....
 
Old Jul 31, 2014 | 12:21 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by HDmikie
It's pretty simple to remove the cam cover and look in there to see which tensioners you have. A little dental mirror will help you see the rear tensioner. You don't have to drain the oil, but put a pan underneath to catch the small amount of oil that will run out once the cover is off.
Another way is to simply look to see if the pins on the link chain are touching the face of the tensioner. If you notice, the distance from the pin to the face of the chain are just a tad less the wear limit depth of the tensioner. If you are paying someone, may as well change them out. On my bike the first inspection at 30K showed little wear. I will probable change them at 60K for sure but I seriously doubt I will put another 30K on it. $200 for new tensioners and a few gaskets is a no brainer to me. I had the change over backwards in my head. My first attachment is mine at 30K. Second is how a full roller chain after it grooves in and rolls wear at 90K (actually will not wear any deeper) Third is The Harley Motor Companys double screwing of it loyal but ignorant customer base by selling the SE upgrade hydraulic tensioners and oil pump that leaves that leave the rear link chain hidden. They just blew smoke up our asses with the hydraulic tensioner to hide the link chain screw up. Also note that the bumps on my link chain are bumpy but smooth. You do not want the back side of the chain flat. Do not polish. If you do, it will cause oil cavitation and at high rpm, and will blast chunks out of the tensioner. Also the rpm is what make the link chain tensioner last like mine, or if you bump the rev-limiter a lot, go at 20K . The last attachment is a worn out tensioner at 45K.
 
Attached Thumbnails Need some advice from experienced wrenches, please-tensioner-30k-hard-to-see.jpg   Need some advice from experienced wrenches, please-tensioners_roller_90k_2.jpg   Need some advice from experienced wrenches, please-tensioners-outer-roller-inner-link-chain.jpg   Need some advice from experienced wrenches, please-tensioners_link_45k_3.jpg  

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jul 31, 2014 at 12:41 PM.
Old Jul 31, 2014 | 02:38 PM
  #14  
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On my 02 Dyna, I know entirely different animal, I've done the next size big bore (from 88 to 95) next level cams 203's, I believe yours would be 204's (?). I have upgraded to the hybrid cam plate which includes hyd. cam chain shoes and improved oil pump. These improvements gave me some extra oomph and a bit more reliability. If you did the same a tuner would be in the future to enable to reap the benefits. Good luck and get ready to open the wallet just a little bit.
 
Old Jul 31, 2014 | 10:54 PM
  #15  
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Remember JW's rules of repair and renovation.


T = time
M = money
e = estimated
a = actual


(Ta + Ma) = 3(Te + Me)


Always seems to work out really close.
 
Old Aug 9, 2014 | 08:12 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by skully1200
First off, your 06 does indeed have the old spring style tensioners. Touring models changed in 07.

Are you planning on doing the work yourself, or paying someone? If you're paying someone, the labor cost shouldn't be much different to change the cams as well as the tensioners, since it's already going to be opened up. Obviously you'll have to buy the cams for a couple hundred bucks. While it's open, it would be a good idea to upgrade the inner cam bearings to Torrinton B148s. The bearings will run about $15 for the pair. If doing the work yourself, you'll need to get the tool to remove/replace them. As far as pushrods, you can reuse the stock rods if your new cams have the same base circle as the stockers, which they most likely would. If going this route, the top end (rocker assembly) will have to be removed to remove the pushrods. This requires more labor, but saves on the cost of adjustable pushrods. Or you can cut out the stock rods, replace with adjustables and save on the rocker box labor. That's up to you. I reused my stock pushrods.
I would probably also recommend replacing lifters while you're in there. I used the V-Thunder lifters from Comp cams for $14 each, and they have worked just fine.
It really isn't hard to do. I watched the S&S video several times, read my service manual until I was absolutely sure I understood the process, I researched and asked questions here, and when I was ready I took my time and followed the directions. It was the most in depth wrenching I had done, it went smoothly enough, and I was pretty proud of myself when it was done.
And the new cams really woke up the bike.
You are correct, I called the dealer and my bike does have the spring loaded tensioners.
Thanks for the input, this is what I was looking for, decisions, decisions!!
 
Old Aug 9, 2014 | 07:18 PM
  #17  
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If you want to upgrade your cams, I'd suggest you just go with gear drive cams, provided the pinion shaft run-out is around 0.0015 or less. If so, you'll never have to worry about cam tensioners again.
 
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