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General Topics/Tech TipsDiscussion on break in periods, rider comfort, seats and pad suggestions. Tech tips as they become available will be posted here.
As for suggestions, remove your pads and clean the calipers and pistons, to make sure they are not hanging up, also the pads move freely in the caliper body. Bleed your brakes and flush through until new fluid comes out. Verify there is no air in your system. If you do not have ABS, I would replace the brake line (front and rear) with braided hoses and consider aftermarket pads. My preference at present is EBC.
reminds me of my 74ch rear drum, anything under 25mph was acceptable but over, like he said, stand up time.
how i over came this?
well, i made my own shoes from drilling rig draw works material, if it will stop a million pound load, what is 400 pounds. it now stops at a whim but there is a cost, accelerated drum wear since the material has everything in it including the kitchen sink.
that said, not all rotor material and pad material works in ka-hoots.
inspect the rotor well, any shinny spots indicates the material is harden and it will not provide any good friction for the pads, this is usually felt in lever/pedal. also check run-out.
Wouldn't the drum of a motorcycle brake system be the entire friggin' wheel? Unless it's a spoke wheel, of course, but that's not really a commonly "serviceable" now is it?
all depends mr. matt
as far as the drum wear, if a replacement is not available at a reasonable price, i will weld in a new surface, easy to do with some flat stock. drum unbolts from the hub.
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