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General Topics/Tech TipsDiscussion on break in periods, rider comfort, seats and pad suggestions. Tech tips as they become available will be posted here.
Will do. You do the same. Im still trying to figure out this forum as to how to set my profile up and supply some pics and how to post...the basics. I appreciate your time and suggestions. Im always open to them.
Top right hand side , next to the bell , you'll see an icon or something , click that and you'll see a list of options , click on user control panel . In there you can add an Avator , add a pic of your bike like I did , and a brief description of your bike , a long with other things you can do , easy peasy , you'll get it after a bit .
Update: I checked for codes and had 3. Rear cylinder leak/running to lean, Limp mode and ETC error. I checked those three items and electrical connections and throttle plate and then cleared the codes and so far are staying away. The cross over tube to the left slip-on was not tight when I installed the news ones. I used a dremel to open the expansion cuts in the pipe so it could be tightened. Id say thats where the exhaust leak/running lean code came from and the other two were a result from it. I made it real mad when I used the top engine cleaner/ lube on it. It forced shut down and threw 3-4 more codes. But they cleared. It still seems to be running the same.
If I understand you correctly , you have cleared all your codes and they're not coming back after you started the bike . If you didn't take it out for ride , there is still a possibility that they could return . Your rear cylinder was running to lean , therefor too hot , which put the bike into limp mode . Would be nice to know if the bike was flashed when the air cleaner was put on it .
I'm hoping you hear back from V&H , getting the proper map is crucial . Who knows what flash the dealer did , if it was . The map you flashed the bike with using the FP3 could be close but maybe just not close enough . I still think there's an underling problem though since you had this issue before you did the flash with the FP3 .
Check for intake leaks as well , could be in the air cleaner set up or the throttle body , especially the rear cylinder ( since you got the error code ) could be a seal from intake to head . Too lean could mean intake leak or improper tune .
Something you could try , resetting the ecm
Turn run switch to the on position
Turn ignition switch to on , wait 10 sec , then off
Do this 4 times in a row , wait a few minutes
I took it for a 15 minute ride after I cleared the codes. I checked for codes once during and once after that ride and they didnt come back. Im hoping I hear from them also. Attached is a pic of two of the codes with the FP3 explanations. As I mentioned the exhaust pipe that crosses under the swing arm wasnt tight at all when I installed the slip ons. To the point that I didnt have to loosen the clamp to take whole left pipe off of the bike. I was thinking maybe that could have caused that code but then again its hard to tell what or if there were codes before I flashed the new map. If I reset the ECM, it would put everything back to stock and I would just flash it again? Im not sure what to think of it. There are no bad or strange sounds coming from the engine. Only a rattle when it acts like it wants to stall when letting out in first. It almost acts like your trying to start out in a higher gear. And that has gotten way better since the twin slash rounds flash.
Good morning Sydney , was thinking about that last night , and it is totally possible the loos crossover could have set that code ( P0151 ) . Glad to hear you were able to take it out for a test run and the codes didn't come back , this is good news .
In the FP3 , there is a section ( View Sensor Data ) that you can view your bike's information . Once the bike's fully warmed up , check the engine temp and Idle rpm . The RPM should be around 1050 . I'm expecting the " rattle " you hear when you let out the clutch is because the rpm's aren't high enough while rolling off .
Resetting the ECM won't delete the FP3 map you have flashed , not exactly sure how it works , but all it will do is reset the values of the TGS ( Twist Grip Sensor ) and other sensors on the bike , where they should be from stock and the map will use those values ... Something like that , my explanation could be a little off .
Once you get the recommended map from FP3 , you'll have a better idea where you'll be , at this point , it's a waiting game . Get it reflashed , delete the map you flashed and see what happens .. Slot # ! will be your factory map , you have 6 other slots that can be used for other V&H maps if you choose to try others , although I have never used them .
I would still run a couple tanks of Sea Foam , or any king of fuel injector cleaner , usually 1onze per gal . Run premium fuel only . Not knowing how long the fuel sat in the tank before you bought it , giving it a good run and cleaning will only help .
So far , things seem to be going well , once you get the new map flashed , you'll be able to do more analyzing using the program's Sensor Data .
One more thing to check , would be the condition of the battery . If you have a volt meter , check and see what the readings are . Voltage should be just above 12v before start up and just above 14v , but not above 15v when rpm is 2000 .
Not sure your views on batteries , but my thinking is , if it's older than 5 years , I would replace it , just for peace of mind .
Pick yourself up a battery tender as well and keep the bike plugged in when your not using it . If your riding everyday , you should be good . If you know the bike is going to sit for more than a couple of days , it's best you keep it on a tender , it'll maintain battery strength and give it a longer lifespan . If your bike has a security feature , it will be constantly draining your battery , not much but enough to cause problems if you leave it for more than a couple of weeks .
My idle rpm at 212 degrees is between 960 and 1040. Volts are 14.1. Vance just responded to my email and suggested the eliminator 400 or Daytona 400 but didnt specify power duals or dresser duals. I have stock headers 2-1-2. I guess that rattle is slightly there also when you rev it from an idle quickly.
Sorry , don't quite understand your idle @ 212 degree's , should be around 1150 @ idle when warmed up , when you flash the new map , that will change . having 14.1v at 2000 rpm looks good . It would probably be wise to shoot them another email and verify which map to go with , since your running a stock header . Later on down the road , you might want to consider changing your head to one that doesn't have a " Cat " installed . It will cool down your engine and make somewhat of a better tune for you , but not critical .
The rattle you hear could be many different things . Without hearing the bike I couldn't even begin to guess what it could be . Loose heat shields , nuts and bolts , primary . All bikes have some noise , and take a bit of getting used too . If you can narrow down where it may be coming from , or post a short video of the noise , that may help . Could be just lifter noise , which is perfectly normal or something more serious , in which case you should have it checked out ( lets hope not ) . If you can run it by another dealer , having them listen to it could verify if it's something you need to be concerned about .
The temp gauge on the sensor and data portion of the FP3 indicates that at an idle it is running 210-220 degrees. Im assuming that its at operating temp. The idle rpm was between 990-1040 rpm. At highway speeds the temp reads 220-230 degrees. Ill shoot them another email and clarify which to use. The rattle sound very dense. Not so much pingy like heat shields or soft enough like loose bolts/nuts. Id say your probably right about it being the primary. Its sounds low in the engine area. I also need to get use to the fact that I went from an 1800cc down to a 1600cc . Even though this one is right close to the 1800. Pretty impressed.
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. Even though this one is right close to the 1800. Pretty impressed.