Handlebar Help
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4th Gear
Joined: May 2021
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From: NY
Handlebar Help
I have a '16 softail slim. I have the stock bars on there now. I'm 5'5", so I was thinking of 10" or 12" dominator 1.25 meathooks. I see some saying that 12" and under, no need of cable/wire extensions, and others saying that it's necessary. the stock bars are at a 3.5 inch rise, with a 35 inch width. the ones I'm looking at have a width of 33". What. if any, additional extensions should i buy or look into?
I hate it when people search for bars to fit the cables. You should always choose a bar height that You will be comfortable with. We always tell people to sit on the bike just like your riding. Up straight, hunched over, however you sit while riding. put your hands out in front of you where you are comfortable. have someone measure from your riser clamps to how high your hands are and that will give you your best idea of how tall the bars should be. After the bars are taken care of then you check the cables. You might be ok with the stock cables. But always be prepared to change them out if need be. A lot of times people buy bars to fit the cables and they end up not comfortable while riding. Shoulders and sometimes their back hurts after a ride.
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Joined: May 2021
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From: Virginia
I just put 16" apes on my Dyna. My recommendation is to get the handlebars mounted up, then measure how much additional (if any) length you need in your wires, brake line and cables. If you need extra length, use something that flexes and curves like the cables, like a section of coax cable or fuel hose, and use that to measure how much extra you need. It will take extra down time on the bike while you wait for the cables you ordered, but it's worth it to get it right the first time.
The reason I say that, is aside from height, the shape of the bars also affect how much additional length of wires/cables you need. Differences in pull back and width can add or subtract needed cable / wire length. So best bet if you want to get it right is to mount the bars and measure. Then order the cables you need and extend the wires to the correct length.
I went from 10" bars to 16" bars, so you would think +6" on all the cables and wires would be correct, but that wasn't the case when I mocked up the bars and measured.
The reason I say that, is aside from height, the shape of the bars also affect how much additional length of wires/cables you need. Differences in pull back and width can add or subtract needed cable / wire length. So best bet if you want to get it right is to mount the bars and measure. Then order the cables you need and extend the wires to the correct length.
I went from 10" bars to 16" bars, so you would think +6" on all the cables and wires would be correct, but that wasn't the case when I mocked up the bars and measured.
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4th Gear
Joined: May 2021
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From: NY
i agree, since ive posted this, ive decided that I spent this much on a bike I love, and if I'm gonna put more money into making it perfect for me, then I'm just gonna do it. In that case, I've decided on some LA Chopper 12" apes, and just in case I've ordered extensions that cover 12" up to 16". I have a professional garage here if i need to take anything off them if they're too long. I appreciate the response.
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4th Gear
Joined: May 2021
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From: NY
So, i fianlly got the bars and wire harness and cables all set. The issue I'm having now, is since I've put the new clutch line, a Barnett 74" threaded clutch line, it seems that my clutch is half engaged and half disengaged. I have no low end torque, and when I shift, it'll go up one gear, then back down. I tried to use my cruise control to see if it was the clutch, and sure enough, it'll engage and then stop immediately as it'll see that I'm "out of gear". Has anyone had this problem? (yes, I adjusted the cable at the adjuster, as well as in the derby cover with the lock nut)
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Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 29
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From: Oregon
So, i fianlly got the bars and wire harness and cables all set. The issue I'm having now, is since I've put the new clutch line, a Barnett 74" threaded clutch line, it seems that my clutch is half engaged and half disengaged. I have no low end torque, and when I shift, it'll go up one gear, then back down. I tried to use my cruise control to see if it was the clutch, and sure enough, it'll engage and then stop immediately as it'll see that I'm "out of gear". Has anyone had this problem? (yes, I adjusted the cable at the adjuster, as well as in the derby cover with the lock nut)
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harlot
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Oct 30, 2023 03:44 PM
