Compensator 2011
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Stage I
Joined: Sep 2021
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From: Australia
Compensator 2011
After some advise, Rick from Australia, I have a 2011 heritage, originally purchased in the states, has standard, not screaming eagle compensator, 70000ks, noisy on hot starts, do I replace the whole unit, or just the compensator springs, the springs have lost there tension, thanks for any help
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 5,315
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From: Granville New York
You'll probably find the ramps are beat up too. I didn't look but are the springs or any part of the old style comp available? I see the whole unit part number is superseded by the screaming eagle compensator. I just put the screaming eagle compensator in my 08 cvo road king today. I have 70k miles on it and it's the original one so I feel like I got my money's worth out of it. There are other options available but I needed one now and the others were on backorder and by luck my dealer had the kit in stock and I had a 100 dollar gift certificate I won on a charity ride this summer so I felt like I won for once lol. Besides the usual hot start kick backs I could hear a rattle and an extra clunk every so often coming from the primary. One of the magnets had come loose on the rotor and was getting beat to death in there. I'm glad I found it before anything bad happened and cost me more money. These bikes are noisy and make lots of sounds but once you know your bikes "normal " you know right away when something is going on. Damn that was a long *** story...I'd highly recommend just replacing the whole compensator at once.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 3,159
Likes: 2,202
From: College Station, TX
Yeah, replace the entire assembly with the Screamin Eagle one. But I believe on the 2011 models the spring pack for the compensator is built onto the rotor for the charging system, which will need to replaced with a rotor without the spring pack because the Screamin Eagle compensator used a different style spring.. And, to replace the the rotor you will need to either grind metal along the inside of the inner primary to create enough clearance for the rotor to come off. Otherwise you will need to remove the inner primary.
Based on the age of the bike, I suggest pulling the inner primary and check the inner primary bearing and replace if needed. Look carefully at the stator for any signs of burning or discoloration (smell the primary oil that was drained and see if it has a burned smell). I'd also look for any leaking seals, shift shaft, trans main shaft seals and inner primary seal and just replace them because they get hard over time and will start leaking if they aren't already. I'd also look at the primary chain auto adjuster and be sure you have the latest version that does not over tighten the chain.
Paul
Based on the age of the bike, I suggest pulling the inner primary and check the inner primary bearing and replace if needed. Look carefully at the stator for any signs of burning or discoloration (smell the primary oil that was drained and see if it has a burned smell). I'd also look for any leaking seals, shift shaft, trans main shaft seals and inner primary seal and just replace them because they get hard over time and will start leaking if they aren't already. I'd also look at the primary chain auto adjuster and be sure you have the latest version that does not over tighten the chain.
Paul
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