Help getting cables through the bars.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 128
Likes: 6
From: QLD
Help getting cables through the bars.
Well im trying to run some hammerhead bars with an aggressive corner.
I've competed one side but having all sorts of issues with the other.
Can't seem to get tbw and control cable past the last bend. I've drowned it in lube.
Using a shoelace and tape which simply keeps pulling off. The lube prolly isn't helping.
I've depinned and/or cut the connectors with same issue.
Any tips or sure fireway to do it I'm going to get some tech flex tomorrow and see if that helps.
Wonder if I can get a longer shoe lace so can tape it more.
I've competed one side but having all sorts of issues with the other.
Can't seem to get tbw and control cable past the last bend. I've drowned it in lube.
Using a shoelace and tape which simply keeps pulling off. The lube prolly isn't helping.
I've depinned and/or cut the connectors with same issue.
Any tips or sure fireway to do it I'm going to get some tech flex tomorrow and see if that helps.
Wonder if I can get a longer shoe lace so can tape it more.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 10,833
Likes: 6,485
From: Canada Flats
Whenever I pull wires , I use a long peace of thin braided line , like the kind that comes in a chalk line used for construction . The string should be the entire length of the wiring , taped at both ends . This helps keep the string from pulling / stretching the wire , which could cause breaks or separations in the joints / solder . Use a push / pull method , and be very patient , bars with extreme joints can be a pita .
My guess , is that the little green connector on the tgs is getting caught up in the bend , I remove that connector and straight solder those wires , making it a whole lot easier .
Are you using a sleeve or just taping the wire bundles ? I find using the sleeve to be more trouble because of the thickness when pulling , the smaller the bundle , the easier it is .
Try taping the tgs wires separate from the switch pack wires , but pull them through together , taping each bundle as tight as you can , not the entire length , but in 4" to 6" sections .
My guess , is that the little green connector on the tgs is getting caught up in the bend , I remove that connector and straight solder those wires , making it a whole lot easier .
Are you using a sleeve or just taping the wire bundles ? I find using the sleeve to be more trouble because of the thickness when pulling , the smaller the bundle , the easier it is .
Try taping the tgs wires separate from the switch pack wires , but pull them through together , taping each bundle as tight as you can , not the entire length , but in 4" to 6" sections .
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 128
Likes: 6
From: QLD
There are no connevtors they have been depinned or cut.
I have prolly 3-4" of tape and I've tried stagering them.
I might try a fresh shoe lace not covered in lube.
I was going to sleave in techflex tomorrow.
I have prolly 3-4" of tape and I've tried stagering them.
I might try a fresh shoe lace not covered in lube.
I was going to sleave in techflex tomorrow.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 10,833
Likes: 6,485
From: Canada Flats
I tried the techflex on my bars last winter , no luck at all , even with 1 1/4" bars , just to thick , even with rounded corners . It's definitely cheap enough to try it though , keep us posted on how you make out , good luck .
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 128
Likes: 6
From: QLD
Here are the bars by the way 1 x 90 degree bend one well and truly past that.
https://lachoppers.com/products/hamm...for-road-glide
https://lachoppers.com/products/hamm...for-road-glide
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 128
Likes: 6
From: QLD
For those who care all done and complete and for idiots stupid enough to attempt the same.
Even with 12" bars I has to cut my gauge housing a touch.
I also ground the pin on the bar clamps. Grinder with a flappy sanding disc did the job. The notch also needed in the side of the gauge cluster is also 1 flappy disc wide with a bid of tape as extra protection. If tape shows signs of ware I may look at plan b.
I also cracked both banjo bolta on the bars to adjust the angle a touch.
After 5 Min to adjust (bars as are quite narrow) I love it I'm still a short *** so will add air ride next.
I can still see fuel gauge and volt gauge perfectly however If I went 14"s it would start to approach it and if I went 16's I would be screwed.
Even with 12" bars I has to cut my gauge housing a touch.
I also ground the pin on the bar clamps. Grinder with a flappy sanding disc did the job. The notch also needed in the side of the gauge cluster is also 1 flappy disc wide with a bid of tape as extra protection. If tape shows signs of ware I may look at plan b.
I also cracked both banjo bolta on the bars to adjust the angle a touch.
After 5 Min to adjust (bars as are quite narrow) I love it I'm still a short *** so will add air ride next.
I can still see fuel gauge and volt gauge perfectly however If I went 14"s it would start to approach it and if I went 16's I would be screwed.
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 128
Likes: 6
From: QLD
Went looking for my inspection camera to see were is was jammed then said *** it and ripped it out damaging some pins.
But all is good now. I'm that trammatised by it I'm taking my fxlrs that just needs new riser on to egt done. No wiring is even needed.
I'm best of going to work on a day off for "paperwork" on OT rates and use that money to pay a sucker to do it.
I see why they charge 8-10hrs labour for a bar swap to allow for anger management therapy sessions afterwards.