1999 road king
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Stage III
Joined: Nov 2023
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From: Fort Wayne, IN
1999 road king
I just acquired a '99 Road King Classic. It has 42k miles. I have no idea of what kind of maintenance has been done on it. It seems to be in good working order for a 20 plus year old bike. But I am having a he'll of a time getting it to shift to Neutral? It shifts fine as I ride, but can't get into N. Is it a clutch thing, a linkage adjustment, or something more serious.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 23,399
Likes: 8,509
From: Spartan Country, Michigan
Change all fluids. Primary fluid will have impact on finding neutral. I use Formula + for primary. And as I tell all new comers......
Welcome from Spartan Country, Michigan!
I tell a lot of new comers to the forum to get: Factory Service manual and the Parts manual. Take to an office supply store and have them put a spiral binder in place of the glued binder. That will let the manuals lay flat on your bench. Get a three ring binder and record all your maintenance, repairs, accessories, etc. This will be a great reminder of what was done when. And great material to pass along to the new owner should you sell and upgrade. Also know how large your fuel tank is, a rough idea of your range per tank, and record your fuel usage. I have an app called Simply Auto that I record all my fuel used. I use the odometer and use the fuel gage as reference only. I reset the odometer to zero on fill ups, and I know I can safely get 200 miles on a tank on around town riding, and upwards of 230+ on trips.
Welcome from Spartan Country, Michigan!
I tell a lot of new comers to the forum to get: Factory Service manual and the Parts manual. Take to an office supply store and have them put a spiral binder in place of the glued binder. That will let the manuals lay flat on your bench. Get a three ring binder and record all your maintenance, repairs, accessories, etc. This will be a great reminder of what was done when. And great material to pass along to the new owner should you sell and upgrade. Also know how large your fuel tank is, a rough idea of your range per tank, and record your fuel usage. I have an app called Simply Auto that I record all my fuel used. I use the odometer and use the fuel gage as reference only. I reset the odometer to zero on fill ups, and I know I can safely get 200 miles on a tank on around town riding, and upwards of 230+ on trips.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 12,689
Likes: 8,295
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Running joke here is "they all do that" but in this case, they all do that. Some people have had success with different brands of primary oil.
Surprised you didn't mention the "clunk" when it goes into first gear.
Congrats on your first post and welcome to the forum
Surprised you didn't mention the "clunk" when it goes into first gear.
Congrats on your first post and welcome to the forum
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,586
Likes: 6,435
From: Honah Lee
Before you condemn it, sometimes it's just practice. If it doesn't pull in gear with clutch in, and starts tugging with a little letting out of lever, practice is the game.
Try it with sneakers to get the fill. Always from first up to neutral. CAM inside transmission is not made to go from second to neutral. It will with practice. But it can jump out doing it that way.
If it persists, check oil level in primary.
I like my clutch with 1/2" turn out of nut at clutch and lever free play just enough to see it check at both locks (1/32")
Make sure shift rod is free and shift lever returns on its own. Some fancy aftermarket spherical bearing ones are too tight.
Mine has them but I got the actual SS joints at the sail shop designed for rigging. You can move them easily.
PS. 5 speeds are a lot easier then 6 speeds. Heel and toe take a little more practice but once you master it can't be beat with boots. Depends on big feet may need some rod and lever adjustment. Be sure if you do, properly torque and use Loctite.
PS. Great first post. Like to always make a quick welcome and hope you stick around and enjoy your ride here. And only as a suggestion, make your next new post over in the new member welcome area to say hello.
Try it with sneakers to get the fill. Always from first up to neutral. CAM inside transmission is not made to go from second to neutral. It will with practice. But it can jump out doing it that way.
If it persists, check oil level in primary.
I like my clutch with 1/2" turn out of nut at clutch and lever free play just enough to see it check at both locks (1/32")
Make sure shift rod is free and shift lever returns on its own. Some fancy aftermarket spherical bearing ones are too tight.
Mine has them but I got the actual SS joints at the sail shop designed for rigging. You can move them easily.
PS. 5 speeds are a lot easier then 6 speeds. Heel and toe take a little more practice but once you master it can't be beat with boots. Depends on big feet may need some rod and lever adjustment. Be sure if you do, properly torque and use Loctite.
PS. Great first post. Like to always make a quick welcome and hope you stick around and enjoy your ride here. And only as a suggestion, make your next new post over in the new member welcome area to say hello.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Dec 9, 2023 at 06:27 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 18,434
Likes: 3,715
From: backwoods
This is the correct answer I think. I run syn3 in primary myself, cause I just don't think it matters.
If it was new to me, I would adjust clutch and check primary chain tension.
1999s had bad rear cams. The rear needed to be switched to roller or ball to handle side loading. I would also check the tensioner pads, front and rear.
Personally I think boring to 95", port and cam, is a great build. You also have a timken bottom end. I'd consider going to gear drive, or the retro kit. If open, I'd replace lifters too.
Fine bike IMO. Personally I like the 5 speed, lots of low end power. i have riden across the country with one, at high speeds for hours. I didn't care for the 6 speed gearing when it came out.
If it was new to me, I would adjust clutch and check primary chain tension.
1999s had bad rear cams. The rear needed to be switched to roller or ball to handle side loading. I would also check the tensioner pads, front and rear.
Personally I think boring to 95", port and cam, is a great build. You also have a timken bottom end. I'd consider going to gear drive, or the retro kit. If open, I'd replace lifters too.
Fine bike IMO. Personally I like the 5 speed, lots of low end power. i have riden across the country with one, at high speeds for hours. I didn't care for the 6 speed gearing when it came out.
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