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Old Nov 10, 2025 | 11:56 AM
  #11  
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In the 1980s, I made a very big mistake: I highly polished the casings of my 1954 FL using very expensive tools intended for dental technicians.
Months of work in dirt and dust until the engine and gearbox gleamed like chrome. I not only ruined the value of the historical motorcycle with this nonsense, but also my own health.
I can still remember the taste of the metal in my mouth because I was working without a dust mask.
The Linkert carburetor was particularly bad; you never forget that "taste"...

I wanted to save money and not leave these very expensive tasks to the experts. But everyone learns from their own mistakes; today I would have the parts gently sandblasted. Soda blasting is a gentle alternative, but there are also companies that can clean such parts very nicely by hand. Ultrasonic cleaning would be ideal, but it wasn't available back then. Other companies handle the fine polishing, but that's still very expensive; carburetors and cylinder heads still cost a fortune...

I would strongly advise against something like that today, unless the motorcycle is designed for show purposes. It saves a lot of money, a lot of trouble, and last but not least, your own health.

Mike















 
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Old Nov 10, 2025 | 08:50 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Mike1956G
In the 1980s, I made a very big mistake: I highly polished the casings of my 1954 FL using very expensive tools intended for dental technicians.
Months of work in dirt and dust until the engine and gearbox gleamed like chrome. I not only ruined the value of the historical motorcycle with this nonsense, but also my own health.
I can still remember the taste of the metal in my mouth because I was working without a dust mask.
The Linkert carburetor was particularly bad; you never forget that "taste"...

I wanted to save money and not leave these very expensive tasks to the experts. But everyone learns from their own mistakes; today I would have the parts gently sandblasted. Soda blasting is a gentle alternative, but there are also companies that can clean such parts very nicely by hand. Ultrasonic cleaning would be ideal, but it wasn't available back then. Other companies handle the fine polishing, but that's still very expensive; carburetors and cylinder heads still cost a fortune...

I would strongly advise against something like that today, unless the motorcycle is designed for show purposes. It saves a lot of money, a lot of trouble, and last but not least, your own health.

Mike
Thanks for all of that Mike. I polished a bunch of aluminum in the past. I know thar taste you are referring to. I don't plan on going hogwild with polishing, or chrome, or any of that.
I like yo​u just w​​​​ant to lightly blast brass, aluminum, etc..
 
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Old Nov 12, 2025 | 09:05 AM
  #13  
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do not over rate your compressor!!! do not over rate your electric motor!!!!
speaking of compressor motors, be aware there is a miss leading rating system used, PEAK & actual. forget the peak BS and go by actual. it is a market gimmick.
the best extra storage short of buying a dedicated air receiver is a hot water tank (gas or electric) because they already have bungs and they are glass lined so rust is not an issue.
the two easiest low abrasive media is soda and walnut hull. however, fine sand can be used if you plan on powder coat, leaves a perfect base.

powder is easier than polishing which is dangerous, the particulate matter in the air is the easy part with masks but the mechanical part could be eye opening if you have monster equipment. i had one of our machines pick me up at 200 pounds and throw me into a wall. burnished into the skin compound is not good and the amount of pressure on the part does not play well with the hands if you already have that issue. position of the part in relation to the wheel never needs to be over looked. i tip for small part is to attach them to a block of wood.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2025 | 10:31 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by tinkering
Thanks for all of that Mike. I polished a bunch of aluminum in the past. I know that taste you are referring to. I don't plan on going hogwild with polishing, or chrome, or any of that.
I like yo​u just w​​​​ant to lightly blast brass, aluminum, etc..
I don't know why I would have said 'brass'. I don't plan on blasting anything brass. Maybe it was the AI monster that threw that in there. It should have read 'lightly blast cast and aluminum'.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2025 | 11:01 AM
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Bobtail
Aluminum alloy strings tone down the highs; I don't play slide much.
 

Last edited by tinkering; Nov 12, 2025 at 11:22 AM.
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Old Nov 12, 2025 | 11:09 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by bustert
do not over rate your compressor!!! do not over rate your electric motor!!!!
speaking of compressor motors, be aware there is a miss leading rating system used, PEAK & actual. forget the peak BS and go by actual. it is a market gimmick.
the best extra storage short of buying a dedicated air receiver is a hot water tank (gas or electric) because they already have bungs and they are glass lined so rust is not an issue.
the two easiest low abrasive media is soda and walnut hull. however, fine sand can be used if you plan on powder coat, leaves a perfect base.

powder is easier than polishing which is dangerous, the particulate matter in the air is the easy part with masks but the mechanical part could be eye opening if you have monster equipment. i had one of our machines pick me up at 200 pounds and throw me into a wall. burnished into the skin compound is not good and the amount of pressure on the part does not play well with the hands if you already have that issue. position of the part in relation to the wheel never needs to be over looked. i tip for small part is to attach them to a block of wood.
I will keep in mind what you've brought to our attention about 'peak and actual'. A couple of my old units might not even have the spec plates on them anymore. I should have enough motor and storage to blast this amount of parts. It might take too long but I have more time than money (that could be up for discussion when reality sets in).

I always thought hot water tanks weren't pressure rated high enough; like 85 psi or something? I guess I was wrong there. I will heed your expertise; it sounds like you are seriously into compressors and industrial blasting. Great about the hot water tank lining, and the rust problem solved.

That sounds like a hell of an accident when you were thrown by a 200 psi hose.

So soda, walnut, and fine sand will pretty well cover everything I would need? What are your thoughts on glass bead?

I don't know what you mean by, "... position of the part in relation to the wheel never needs to be over looked"... what is 'the wheel'?

What a great tip, to fasten small parts to a block of wood.

That is a pretty pedal steel. I don't know much about them. Music soothes the savage beast. I play in the church band. I finally found my gig. He gave it to me and I give it back to Him.
 

Last edited by tinkering; Nov 12, 2025 at 11:14 AM.
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Old Nov 13, 2025 | 08:35 AM
  #17  
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https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/dD8AA...Wn/s-l1600.jpg
this is what i am talking about (not actual one)
it picked me up and i weigh 200 at that time and chunked me 5 foot into the shop door. it can chunk a part with so much force that it will put a hole in the metal building wall.
a water heater tank should have a tag with this info, been using them for decades after one of my receivers rusted out. WAY safer than a modified freon tank. do not get me wrong, you can use them with the original taps but way too small. i have used them as fuel tanks by cutting the tap side off and welding them, but no pressure involved, remember the oil embargo.
to polish, the part needs to be below center of the wheel/buff, BUT not at the bottom.
sounds like you need a blast cabinet for your small parts. as others pointed out the media needs to match the job at hand. i have not used glass but i have used steel shot to peen down rods to reduce stress.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2025 | 06:41 AM
  #18  
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Hi tinkering,
I wouldn't bother myself with that high-gloss polishing of such parts made of aluminum, brass, and stainless steel these days...
All of this is lousy and extremely time-consuming work, but it's what always made the true "show bikes".

Here a link to the german Panhead custom bike "Panhead-Skinny-Chopper": https://dream-machines.de/bikes/panhead-skinny-chopper/
A truly unique piece, perfect down to the smallest detail, a project by the German company: https://www.thunderbike.de/
There are also some videos about the motorcycle, of course in first-class quality.
The pretty model is a real stunner in her own right, both in the photos and in the videos!

I'll upload a photo of a 1970s BMW chopper later. It's a completely modified BMW with an HD springer fork, chromed and gold-plated all over. I just need to dig out the old photo...
Wishing you all a good weekend, and keep your nose to the wind!

Mike
PS I have no private or business relationship with the above company; this is not a form of covert advertising.





 

Last edited by Mike1956G; Nov 15, 2025 at 06:50 AM.
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Old Nov 15, 2025 | 07:32 AM
  #19  
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Here is a photo of the BMW from the 1970s.
Chopped BMWs were a "standard" in Germany before many bikers switched to old Harleys and Indians; new Harleys were too expensive for people, so they had to make do with the old stuff...
The BMW in the photo was designed and modified in Gummersbach; its owner at the time was nicknamed "Profi" (Professional). The man was known for his beautiful BSA chopper.
He spent a long time designing and building the BMW with the Harley springer fork. Today, he rides an old Harley...

* I recall a saying from Profi: "Only when the grinding water looks bloody is the grinding perfect, then you can start polishing!"



Mike
PS: Unfortunately, the photo is of poor quality; it doesn't show the motorcycle's perfection.
PSS As far as I know, the BMW was presented at the Daytona Bike Show in later years and sold in the USA?
 

Last edited by Mike1956G; Nov 15, 2025 at 08:01 AM.
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Old Nov 16, 2025 | 08:02 AM
  #20  
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OLE saying
"beauty is in the eye of the beholder"
chrome does not get you home, i prefer stealth over beauty, my would be the last to be stole, aka, no eye candy. if you saw mine on the road you would be hard pressed to know the model although there are dead give-a-ways. i also badge it as a smaller displacement.
way back when, i used to get my drinking money for free, you must know your targets however. i would find a dude with bragging rights and challenge him to a street hop. after smoking him, i would say double or nothing and i will let you switch the spark plug wires, WHOO-HOO, drinking tonight!
machine is more valuable to me with what is inside, same as a woman. a brick out house woman is just that, beauty on the outside, but the insides, not so much.
 
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