I THINK this is the best place for a blasting thread. I thought about the powder coat/paint forum but chose this general tech forum instead. Should it be here or there?

I am rebuilding my shovelhead. I am going to blast the rust from my flywheels, the crud from my pistons, cases, barrels, heads, etc.. I want to discuss what media is best for each of them... Sand, soda, glass?

I don't want to go all hogwild on a whole system, although that would be nice I would rather use the money for other aspects. I have more time than money.

I have a few small/mid sized compressors and tanks (a couple of 100 lb propane bottles too that I could weld fittings onto for more volume). I would tie it all together with hose; probably not pipe. Has anyone ever piggybacked multiple units to speed up delivery and storage?

I am wondering if I can stretch the maximum pressure to 150 psi?
I have a simple old syphon blaster pail, hose, and nozzle.

How much advantage is gained by using a pressurized media tank?

I don't have a blast cabinet (would be nice but more $). I've been thinking I would just lay out a big catch tarp in the alley (unless a cheap 2nd hand cabinet appears on kijiji).

What kind of tape is required for protecting mating surfaces and races etc.?
That's all I can think of right now, except for thanks for reading this.

 

I would let sand, aluminum oxide or glass beads anywhere near internal engine parts. I'd use soda. You can clean and dissolve every granule with with soapy water. You don't want any grit in your engine.

 

Excellent.
Sand, glass, alumoxide, only for some external parts then?
So I should be looking into soda only for all internal parts.
Walnut shells for general cleaning?
How about mag rim cleaner for cases?
Thanks

 

Personally I'd use glass bead. It will do a better job on the cylinders and is OK for the heads. If the rust is thick on the wheels, I certainly hope you broke the wheels down.. Bead does pistons tops and valves well. Bead is good for rusty brackets and other things on the bike that you don't want chromed. It works fine at 80 to 100 PSI. At those pressures you could chain all the compressors together and feed the propane tanks as a reservoir. Might blow a breaker..

On the cases I'd use an wire brushes on a drill.. Don't hit the gasket surfaces, for aim is good enough, clean with razor blade, or good gasket scraper. Brake clean will soften many gaskets. FWIW all sealing surfaces should be surfaced flat surface with fine sandpaper. Races should be replaced.

As far as inner parts, I'd use mineral spirits and brushes. If the rods are rusted, I'd replace. Other internal part is rusted I'd use a rust dissolver or simply a wire wheel on a buffer.

 

That covers just about the whole nine yards. Thanks
80 PSI to 100 PSI sounds more realistic. I will get some glass bead; What size? Do I need to match the blaster nozzle to the bead size somehow? I should get a dryer for the compressor line, to keep the media from clumping in the hose etc..

I plan to split the flywheels apart so I can clean up everything inside there too.

If the pinion bearings are pooched I was hoping to get some of those revised long roller new style bearings unless cost factors the old style back in.

I can probably chain the 2 biggest compressors together. I have an old 1hp that will do 220v. I could run a pair on separate breakers. I will see just what each of them are capable of doing when I get my hands on them again.

I would still like a small blast cabinet that would help keep the mess down.

I've got a thread started on this build if you want to see it https://www.hdforums.com/forum/shove...e-build-4.html

I'm building the toolset I need to try to do most everything myself; crank assembly truing stand, flywheel balancing stand; bob weight, crank nut torking jig, etc..
I had just taken all my lead into the $crapyard when I thought of pouring my own lead hammer. Will a 4 or 5 lb. dead blow hammer work instead of a lead hammer for clobbering the wheel assembly into true?

I'll try to include lots of pics for that stuff on my build thread, and the blasting/cleanup process here. Sometimes I forget to shoot em.

 

I simply use harbor freight 80 grit bead.. It's softer than 80 grit sand.. I've got an early no name cabinet like standing one that HF sells. It came with 3 nozzles and I still haven't worn out the first one. I've had it probably 20 years. I've added a sawdust separator to recover the bead and keep from plugging up the shop vac filter.

 

Don't know what a sawdust separator is or does?

 

 

Thanks
That's pretty keen but I will probably just use the shop vac considering the amount it will be used.

 

I saw some DIY builds of those type of things, on Utube.
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