Storage question

For those who have or know correctly how to store a bike long term.

Can I pull the battery? Can you think of any reason to leave a battery in a bike that is from the 60’s or 70’s?

I also found this

Seven Motorcycle Storage Tips


Motorcycle Storage Tip #1- Fuel: The best and most logical place to begin your storage preparations for your custom chopper is with the fuel system. Because unleaded gasoline has a short shelf life of only three to four week before deterioration begins, the fuel must be stabilized. Consider this: unstabilized gasoline oxidizes and turns to a substance that is pretty much like varnish after a short period. Some folks think that draining the gas tank and float bowl is the best way to go to prevent sludge build up. In reality, it is all but impossible to completely drain the fuel from the carburetor jets and small lines. For this reason, fuel stabilization is a much better method to use. You can buy any reliable brand of fuel stabilizer and add the recommended amount to a full tank of gas. Run the engine for 15 minutes or more to get the stabilized fuel into all the parts throughout the engine and fuel system.

If the bike is not running, it is better to drain the fuel system, empty the carb and fill the tank with fresh fuel than to do nothing. This will help prevent corrosion.

Motorcycle Storage Tip #2- Oil:
Next, while the engine is still warm, change the oil to remove sludge that might deteriorate during storage. When you are ready to get up and riding again, you'll have fresh oil and not have to worry about this important maintenance step at that time. Of course, you should always use top-quality oil and you might consider using synthetic oil since this will last longer. Let the engine run for a short time to ensure that lubricant is distributed throughout the engine.

Motorcycle Storage Tip #3- Brake Fluid: If you haven't changed your brake fluid recently, this is a good time to take care of that. Dirty brake fluid can contribute to corrosion and cause the hydraulics to deteriorate. New brake fluid is light amber; if your fluid is dark or clouded, you definitely need to change the fluid by thoroughly flushing the system and filling with new brake fluid.

Motorcycle Storage Tip #4- Battery: For a long battery life, it is important to keep the battery charged if you are using the common lead-acid battery. If your custom chopper will be stored where freezing temperatures are possible, you will need to remove the battery from the motorcycle and store it in a dry place that will not reach below freezing temperatures. Do not place the battery on concrete; instead, store it on a work bench or other raised surface. You can obtain specialized chargers that will not overcharge your battery. A Battery Tender is one type of these products. If you use a trickle charger on the battery, you have to be sure not to overcharge the battery by running the trickle charger only one-half hour per day. To do this easily, set the charger up on a time that you can find at any large discount store at a reasonable price.

Motorcycle Storage Tip #5- Clean, Then Lubricate: Storing your motorcycle with road grime and grit is a sure way to start corrosion and cause damage. Before storing, clean your scoot thoroughly. Wash and dry it completely, then apply a coat of wax.

If you have a chain drive instead of a belt drive, lubricate the chain properly. All the moving parts like cables, pivot points, and center and side stand should be lubricated thoroughly. A good protectant spray made specifically for metal can be sprayed on the frame and drive train to prevent rust and potential pitting.

A word of warning: if you have a pearl effect paint job, never allow any petroleum-based lubricants or other products that contain petroleum or petroleum derivatives to touch your paint. Also, do not use WD-40 on any motorcycle anywhere. Buy the right products for the job; your bike is worth it.

Motorcycle Storage Tip #6- Tires: Check the air pressure in your tires and be sure they are inflated properly. For those who have an air compressor, you can deflate the tires and then refill them to get rid of any moisture that may have condensed inside the tire. If the custom chopper is going to be stored in freezing conditions, you need to get both tires off the ground so they do not have any load on them. This is a good idea even if the chop won't be stored in the cold, but it is crucial for cold storage. However you choose to raise your motorcycle, make absolutely certain it is secure and will not fall. Bottle jack lifts have failed under long use, so be careful about the method you choose to use for lifting the load from the tires.

Motorcycle Storage Tip #7- Cover: The last step is to cover your motorcycle for storage. Use a cover that allows air to pass in and out so that moisture will not condense and become trapped under the covering. Plastic tarps are famous for allowing condensation to occur. If you are storing your bike in a place that creatures could possibly get into the storage area, cover your exhaust ends with plastic bags to prevent anything from deciding that your pipes look like a good hiding spot.

So remember to follow each motorcycle storage tip every winter or before you store your bike for long periods of time. Also, as a disclaimer, we are not responsible for any damage that occurs as a result of following or not following the advice on this motorcycle storage tips article. But we feel that we've covered the most important aspects of proper motorcycle storage prepartion. Let us know if we have left anything out, and you want us to add any other tips.

 

I would pull the battery if you store for more than 3 months. Those tips are pretty good.

 

I live in Texas so cold is not an issue.

WHat do you guys think. I can't think of any reason not to pull it.

Also if I drain the tanks and blow them out, do you think they will rust?

 

I'm in Texas as well, so I can start up my bike and ride it at least once a week even in the cooler temps to keep the battery up and to keep the fluids from getting stagnant (for lack of better terminology. I'm tired lol.). I do the same thing with cars I may not drive much. Not sure about the tank though. I would imagine that you would want to clean the tank out with something as well and then blow it out.

 

skos.. you're more than welcome to store it in my garage.. I'll start it up and ride it once a week to make sure it stays in good shape. :-)
but seriously, i would not drain the tanks.. put the fuel stabilizer in it and run for a few minutes to get in through the system, change the oil, and then pull the plug on the battery. that's probably the best thing to do...

 

+1 on Fuel Stabilizer. Did it the last few times I went overseas. Once for a year and everything was fine when I got home.

Not sure what you are riding but here in NC it is VERY humid. I went to wally world and in the laundry section found large containers of dessicant. I bought 6 of them. Broke the seal on two of them and wedged them into the passenger pegs. Then placed the cover over the bike in the garage. Every 2 months I called the wife and told her to change them out with 2 fresh ones. When I got back everything was dry and no mold grew anywhere. The last set of dessicant containers were almost completely full of water when I got back but the bike was dry.

 

Keeping the tank totally full of fuel is the best way to keep it from rusting, as long as the fuel doesn't have ethanol in it. Ethanol absorbs water. I use SeaFoam (cleans out carbon as well as stabilizing fuel), although the 87 octane I use really doesn't need it. I have an old car that has been stored for 7 and 11 years at a time with a full tank of 87, and it ran fine on that old gas after all those years.
The battery won't freeze as long as it's charged, so do whatever is handier for you, charging it in the house or in the garage.
I use WD40 on the chrome and other metal parts to reduce condensation. It can't hurt anything. Naturally you wouldn't use it on paint.
I spray fogging oil in the exhaust pipes and stuff rags in to keep the rodents out. Didn't do that on the old car and the last time I ran it, it left a quarter mile trail of walnuts on the road. I don't bother to spray fogging oil in the spark plug holes, but that wouldn't hurt anything.
I don't change the brake fluid every winter. I don't take the weight off the tires for a few months winter storage. I change the oil several times over the course of the summer, so I don't feel the need to change it again for storage.