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General Topics/Tech TipsDiscussion on break in periods, rider comfort, seats and pad suggestions. Tech tips as they become available will be posted here.
Skully, I'm not sayin' you're wrong...I reckon it's possible they made the change just to sell more tools...but doesn't seem likely from the manufacturer's standpoint. Does anybody out there know if torx fasteners are perhaps cheaper to make...?? Perhaps there is a slight advantage in assembly efficiency when using torx versus allens..??
I've been curious about this for years, and would love to see somebody post an explanation that makes more sense than "to sell more tools".
If there isn't one...then Skully's post gets the prize...!!
The difference is when the fasteners are machine driven during assembly. The old way there was no control to stop the driver when the fastener was tight. That meant the blade had to slip out of the fastener to stop the drive where now they have it perfected to where the clutch slips on the driver to stop the drive so the blade can fit the fastener tightly. The old way used the Phillips and the new way uses the Torx. Allen is another thing of its own.
I side with the, "when you have to take them out, replace with socket head cap screws", seem like the wrench seats deeper than with torx, less chance to strip out the head. Of course go with s.s. Also the button head screws seem like they are shallower than socket head, not such a smooth appearance, but if you have to take it apart again you'll be glad.
"...the button head screws seem like they are shallower than socket head, not such a smooth appearance, but if you have to take it apart again you'll be glad."
Well, Screwsloose...
You've put me in a place wherein I have to make a confession...
As much as I like to pretend that my priorities lie with "function" first and "appearance" last, I've got to admit I choose the "button head" for the appearance! I'd rather keep the better looking (in my opinion) button heads and replace one now and again.
However, THAT being said... When I see the deep head screws on a bike, I'm VERY much aware of the significance (i.e.: Function trumps Appearence!), and am apt to believe that the nature of the builder/owner is reflected in that selection.
"Art" is supposed to be indicative of the nature or feelings of the artist... the artist's "Message" or "Expression" is observed in his/her works! Any person's endeavours (anything (material or ephemeral) that one creates) can be considered his/her "Art"!
Northeastern native peoples would refer to the "Spirit", or the "umph", that someone puts into thier work (or "Nature's" work) as a "Manatou". The "Spirit" of the "Thing"! A Mississippi Bluesman might call it "Soul"!!!
Van Gogh's brush strokes, Mozart's "Riffs", or the selection of deep head over button head, is/are, EACH, a statement of belief, and execution of purpose.
Our actions and creations speak MORE of us, as individuals, as most of us would imagine!
Jim aka kiltiemon (Yes! It's a very deep, heavy, and CHEAP Port that I'm drinking! The above stated observations explain why I enjoy the most reprehensible looking "Rat Bike" every bit as much as the Sleekest, Shiniest "Custom")
Torque heads have more surface area. It is more beneficial on small fasteners. It's similar to the 6pt 12 pt socket deal on sockets. This is also why they used splined shafts in high torque applications such as automotive drive line components.
For an "on road" tool kit, I try to enconomize on size and weight.
I use a 1/4" drive ratchet with a "jump up" adaptor for 3/8" sockets. I also do NOT carry torx and allen wrenches or screwdrivers, but use those little torx and allen and screwdriver "nubbs". They will fit into a 1/4 inch socket. Press a small magnet into the end of the socket with just a dab of JB Weld to hold it... The torx/allen/phillips screw and straight screw "nubbs" won't accidentally fall out while in use. The "nubbs" all fit into a small pill bottle.
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