Just not sure how tight to turn the ajusting screw before I back it out 1/2 turn I am refering to the clutch pack ajusting screw

 

With the clutch cable loosened (barrel fitting) snug it down by hand with the allen wrench, but don't "tighten" it. All you are doing is taking the slack out of the lifting mechanism. You should be able to see the lever move outward as you snug that screw in. Snug it and then pull the lever and "snug" it again. If you are lifting the clutch pack as you tighten that screw....that is too much, but you can do that to make sure all the slack is gone....but then back it off and do it again. All you want to do is remove the ball-n-ramp slack....back the adjustment bolt out that 1/2 turn and lock it in place with the nut while holding the allen wrench. Then, make the clutch cable adjustment with that barrel in the middle of the cable.

 

Always done on a cold motor.


Let's go over the basics of clutch adjustment on late motorcycle models.

Ideally, you want the motorcycle to be on a lift or stand. The procedure can be done on the kickstand but, some primary fluid may leak out. If no lift is available, a block of wood under the stand will help then.

Putting the transmission in a higher gear will help here so the lock nut can be broken loose easier.

Back off the cable adjuster until the adjuster is fully collapsed.

Remove the derby cover and set aside.

Loosen the clutch adjuster lock nut two turns.

Turn the clutch adjuster in until it lightly seats against the clutch release. Seated means that it is touching but not pushing against the release. At this time the clutch lever should have very little play.

Back the adjuster out 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn from seated (preferrably 1/2 turn out) . Repeat this several times to get the "feel" and to get all the play out. I prefer an adjustment of about 1/2 turn out for best feel .
NOTE: Backing the adjuster further than 1/2 turn out will move the clutch engagement point on the handle closer to the bar.

Lock the adjuster nut down while holding the adjuster from turning.

Work the clutch lever several times before adjusting the free play at the cable adjuster. Adjust the free play to 1/16" to 1/8" as measured at the pivot by pulling back on the sheathing of the clutch cable away from the clutch perch. I usually add just a little slack as a personal preference.

Work the clutch several times to make sure operation is smooth and no binding in any part of the travel.

Install the derby cover after topping off primary oil if needed.

Perform a test ride and adjust the free play as needed to get the engagement and release points correct once it is fully warmed up.
If you cannot adjust the clutch free play with the cable adjuster, the cable may be stretched or frayed. If the cable has been replaced, the wrong cable may have been installed.

A worn or warped clutch pack will often feel as if the adjustment is bad because it tends to make the release and engagement jerky. If after adjusting the free play you still have clutch operation problems it may be time to take a look at the clutch.

It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting.