Ok here we go I ride an 08 Ultra classic. While riding the other day the voltmeter dropped from 14 to 12 and would not move even when revved up.....I checked and the battery was border line so I installed a new one. Still the voltmeter read 12 and at one point while increasing the rpm it went up to 16 and I immediately shut it down, the voltage regulator is approx. $250.00 and the stator is $150.00 or so plus install. Is there a quick way of determining which component is the problem as electrical parts are non returnable. Anyone help me out there? I heard there was a check one can do with a multimeter!

 

the stator is tested by pulling the plug from the front of the left motor case.


this is a cut and paste from Peppi: ( cause i am too lazy to type, but enough energy to search)

Start by sniffing the primary oil, if it smells burnt, it's probably the stator that is bad but you're better off changing the regulator too because they usually go belly up shortly after replacing the stator.

# Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
# Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
# Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
# The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
5. Generic Specs:

* 22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
* 32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
* 45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm


Stator Resistance Check:

motor off

1. Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
2. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
3. Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
4. Generic Specs:

* 22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
* 32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
* 45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms

remember that the stator puts out AC voltage- the VR converts to DC and keeps under 14.8 volts.

it is possible that you have something draining power ( even an internally shorted light bulb, it happens--- here's good one, my pal lowered his road king, the tire ate through the wiring insulation inside the rear fender--- when it got moist power would trickle from the chewed wiring through the dirt inside his fender...and his battery would drain while riding- the stress on the charging system caused it to fail_)

so check the charging system first, if that is all fine then it's going through the loads ( various circuits)

the meter in the dash, like all the lighting up front, runs through the ign. switch.
the switch can be a weak point esp. if high wattage bulbs have been used up front- the contacts can burn, pit, arc.

on my evo bagger the voltage drop to the dash was about 1.2 volts with everything on.

because of that I ran new 10 ga wiring up front for the lights and used the stock wiring just to activate relays on the hi beam/ low beam/ each spot and the accs.

so 5 relays all together, i figured if I was in there I mights as well go all the way- and there was room for 5 relays on top of the radio


when figuring out electricval problems, I would sometimes tape the meter to my bars - the trickle charger plug can be used for an adapted plug to the meter

Copied from mkguitar

 

The thread its from: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...em-issues.html