It's not that it doesn't fit the other forums as much as it fits more thanany one thread.

I bought my 08 FXDF new and rode everywhere from Daytona Bike weeks (2x) toThunder Beach at Panama City (3x) to Memphis and a solo ride to my parents inRaleigh, NC, all aside from daily local jaunts. Due to some recent serious family problems that cost a bundle, I had toleave my "Horse" parked for a solid year and I just started trying to get it back into shape for the road.

First thing I did (…and probably the biggest mistake) after installing a brand new battery, I tried starting it. I had security system issues right out of the gate and codes I saw on the forums here (11111 and last 5 of the VIN) didn’t work, so, I called the dealer and the service boss gave the typical code they use and that worked. I got the bike started but it was running VERY ragged, sluggish. I let it rev kind of low for a bit, then shut it off. The second time I tried, it went back to the security thing again, so, I went up to the local drug store a got a battery for the key fob, figuring that out. That solved the repeat code entry situation. Next, I drained all of the oil, main, primary, and tranny and replaced along with a new filter and primary cover seal. I also added 2 brand new spark plugs gapped with the leading edge of the arm right at 0.040.

This is where everything went further south than I live.

I went to try cranking it over again and it seemed to turn the starting circuit fairly strong but the engine wasn’t turning over verywell. It was still slow and sluggish andthe battery started to pull the charge down in the repeated attempts. I never crank it more than, say, 5 turns without letting off. But, I was on the third attempt or so when it sounded like something popped, followed by the blank starter clicking, accompanied by thedreaded electrical smell. As I went toremove the battery box cover, I saw what looked like solder on one of my frame tubes. I was thinking “Great!!!” I thought it was part of the wiring harness. Turns out it had melted some of the negative battery terminal away, compounding even worse aloose connection. I checked the fuse in the + side and it was good. I tightened the negative connector back down tight and made sure both were well clear of any ground potential. When I tried to turn it over again, I got cranking and slow roll over, with little to no firing. I waited about 5 hours to try again and when I turned on the run button and ignition, there’s absolutely nothing, dead, not even a light or LCD display.

I am assuming a couple things here. First, the brand new battery just went on permanent vacation and I have to get another one. Second, because the original gas was low (Idid put a gas can 1.5 or so gallons with a small amount of injector cleaner into the tank when I did the other fluids.), and because I was stupid in starting it before I traded out original fluids and gas, I imagine my injectors are screwed now.

Aside from the “Yeah, you’re right, got what you deserved!" feedback I expect, I guess my questions are where do I go now since I’m not madeof money and I have to piecemeal do this around paychecks and my still existentproblems that kept me down this long? And, How do I figure out if it’s the injectors or something more / lessserious? And…Could I still have something electrical seriously wrong?



I appreciate anything you can suggest to get me closer to riding again.
Quik_Draw

 

Combination of issues...

First, the new battery only had enough charge to get me "Over the top" and eventually ran out of starting power.

Solution: Trickle charger. Problem solved.

Next...

Injectors...Fuel system.

I went on a web site that puts you in touch with a professional around any question you have under the sun called "Just Answers.com" you pay a $28 registration fee and that gets stored in an account. Once you get an answer to test, you are offered the opportunity to "RATE" the level of assistance provided, from "Sorry" to "Excellent" along with a second opportunity to offer the "helping hand" a tip with fixed amounts from $1 to as much as you would like to give and that comes from the $28 you registered with.

A very helpful "Tech" came on the line, saying he was actively working in a Harley shop. He first steered me to:

http://www.shopronniesharleydavidson.com/

A site I saw in another post here, which showed me an exploded view of the top half of the engine (Among all of the drawings for any part of the bike.).

Next, he gave me series of steps to make it as easy as possible.

- Unbolt the tank mounts from the frame.
- Instead of removing the tank, simply lift it and slide 2 boards (2x4s - Or, in my case, PVC tubes so I wouldn't get any debris from the wood into anything important.), setting the tank back down onto the "New" supports. That gave me enough clearance to go to work underneath.
- I removed the center bolt from the whole fuel rail assembly (Reaching in from the left "Horn" side.) and disconnected the connectors from the injectors.
- I removed the entire assembly and took it to the bench, where I cleaned the injectors "Dead" first as much as I could.
- I hooked up a 9 volt battery to the injectors to get them firing and help clean them out, running a fuel line to a jug of good clean gasoline.
- Put the whole thing back together and reinstalled in on the bike.

OHHH...He said as simple as this next step is, it's VERY important and do not miss it.

Put silicone compound on the ends of the fuel lines before inserting them back onto the fitting ends. He was adamant how important the step was, so, I won't miss stating it again here...

- I took the spark plugs out and, after using a squirt bottle of gasoline to prime the cylinders through the spark plug holes with 3 or 4 squirts of gas, I put the plugs back in and reconnected the cable ends.
- Using the usual start sequence, I turned over the ignition. The bike stuttered a little and fired to life. I let it rev a bit, coaxing it a little with the throttle and then let it idle some time longer to let the gas (With injector cleaner mixed in a small ratio.) through the system. Once it settled in and seemed smooth again, I shut it off and made sure everything was buttoned back up and all the oil / lubes were at the right levels.
-I started it again and it fired right to life, all solid. Let it idle some time more, not wanting to shut it off again really.

Thank you, tech dude from the web site...I am road ready again and I couldn't have done it without your "Pro" support.

Quik