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Electronic Ignition (Throttle)

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Old May 10, 2009 | 12:57 PM
  #11  
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Here's the scenario I was thinking about.

From 07 to 09 there is a switch installed inside the left hand control. You pull in the clutch and it engages this safety switch so it will start "in gear". If the bike is in neutral you do not have to pull the clutch and activate the switch. This would be a good reason why your trike will not start except in neutral.

Neutral + no clutch pull or with clutch pull = Start
In gear + clutch pull = Start
In gear + no clutch pull = No Start

In gear + no clutch pull with bad switch = Leap Forward
In gear + clutch pull with bad switch = No Start

These switches go bad often and HD had a supplier issue sometime back that made the switch work backwards. If you were in neutral and pulled in the clutch the bike would start. If the bike was in gear and you didn't pull in the clutch the bike would leap forward. When you upgrade to chrome switch covers this switch is easy to break or short out.

Barbara... I think your clutch safety switch is bad.

And, due to Pop's post in another thread... Have HD reflash your ECM while there and check your codes to see if it threw a B1154 code. That would be the clutch safety switch ground code.

There is no charge to anyone when HD does this and flashes the OEM map. They only charge when upgrading to a stage 1 or another map.


.02
 

Last edited by Mr. Wizard; May 10, 2009 at 01:06 PM.
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Old May 10, 2009 | 01:11 PM
  #12  
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Oh, btw.. if the switch is bad have HD double check the part number before they replace it. The 2009 switch is a different part number (with identical wiring colors). It works bass-ackward from the prior years switch.
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 01:13 PM
  #13  
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Guess my switch is bad as well. It doesnt bother me that I have to put it back in neutral to start the motor. As a habit from all the years of riding I do it anyway to make it it safer when starting
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 03:23 PM
  #14  
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The biggest problem as we all know the bikes pre 07 would start in gear without the clutch being pulled in. Now you either have to have it in neutral or the clutch pulled in. Any time my trike sits in the garage for any length of time I put the trickle charger on it since the security system activates automatically and uses up battery power.
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 03:31 PM
  #15  
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Barbara,

Mac read your post and told me 'such and such' - well I don't remember it all but something like:

Make sure you have the clutch pulled tightly...

He can start his in any gear...

On the handle bars - throttle side - near your start switch is the 'kill switch'... Mac said he inadvertendly hit the kill switch (gloves with fingers) but was quickly able to restart the TriGlide..

I'll have him read this and if there's anything to add or change I'll let you know...

Good Luck...
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 04:03 PM
  #16  
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Hi, Ho, it's off to HD I go....tomorrow.

Both times the engine quit, I was sitting idling to either make a left turn into the gas station or sitting at a light. Let the clutch out and engine died both times. If the clutch wasn't fully engaged, trike wouldn't sit idling.

Edited to add:
I only have 20% grip pressure in my left hand. I have to 'roll' my hand over to 'grab'
the clutch lever....adjustment to raise the clutch (and brake) levers? I had that done on my EGC.
Could be that I'm not fully gripping the clutch. Do the trikes have an "easy clutch"? If not, I might
need one!
 

Last edited by BinIdaho; May 10, 2009 at 04:17 PM.
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Old May 10, 2009 | 05:03 PM
  #17  
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Probably the best I've seen is this one

HD makes something similar.

Both are inexpensive.
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 05:44 PM
  #18  
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On my quest for a clutch I could use without pain, I found NOTHING that would work on the Tri Glide. Hydraulic is even harder to reach around with small hands. The only thing seemed to be the automatic clutch, but hubby won't do it because of warranty issues. He adjusted my clutch himself and at first I hated it because it engaged so much further out. But now I LOVE it, as I don't have to pull it all the way in to engage. My hand does not hurt anymore. Also, the more the bike gets broke in the easier it seems to be. The "easy pull" clutch will not work, as the triglide has too much weight for it. My hands are really small, I wear an X small glove( when I can find them).
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 08:37 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Ironhorsepilot
On my quest for a clutch I could use without pain, I found NOTHING that would work on the Tri Glide. Hydraulic is even harder to reach around with small hands. The only thing seemed to be the automatic clutch, but hubby won't do it because of warranty issues. He adjusted my clutch himself and at first I hated it because it engaged so much further out. But now I LOVE it, as I don't have to pull it all the way in to engage. My hand does not hurt anymore. Also, the more the bike gets broke in the easier it seems to be. The "easy pull" clutch will not work, as the triglide has too much weight for it. My hands are really small, I wear an X small glove( when I can find them).
1550VT (a member here) told me about this a few weeks ago. I had been looking and reading about it. It's a bit pricey but it may be helpful to you.

I've read several threads and posts about this on the web and it seems to be very helpful and really works.

My clutch spring is a SE spring and it takes about 40 pounds to pull the lever while a stock is about 20 pounds to pull. This is why I was looking around.
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 09:30 PM
  #20  
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My Hands are not that strong any more my thumbs are weak. But I find the clutch lever not hard to pull in. I have no problems sitting at a long light in gear with clutch pulled in. My hands are med size. Spudster did you try the other key fob that came with the bike. I keep my fob in the tour pack when riding. My tri can start in gear with the clutch pulled in. Or in neutral with clutch lever not pulled in. The hand force used to pull the clutch lever in feels the same on my 09 FXD Dyna and my 06 1200C Sporty.
 
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