TPS Replacement Suggestions...
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 32
Likes: 1
From: Leesburg, VA
Yeah, That TPS needed to be replaced. How long did you leave the fuses out for? I believe the manual says 10 min. I leave them out for at least 30. I suspect that when the fuses were pulled, and the ECM learned the new voltage that it didn't like something there. You can try dialing it back to the 0.200 VDC value, pull the fuses, and try again.
Try pulling any trouble codes using the check engine lamp method. Make sure that the battery cables are tight on both ends. Try removing the PC II from the system.
Try pulling any trouble codes using the check engine lamp method. Make sure that the battery cables are tight on both ends. Try removing the PC II from the system.
I left them out 15-60 minutes.
I figured out what I did wrong with setting the cold Idle. I pulled the ICS with the bike ignition on and "in run" while cold. I didn't realize that this was different than turning bike off, then on, then off so the ICS would "park" in a neutral location.
That resulted in an idle of over 2K cold. I started it up with the ICS disconnected. Since the Idle was High, I mucked with the Cold idle to get it (by ear) down to where the idle should be. That was the start of my problems and what was leaving the check engine light on. (no codes were thrown)
I worked all yesterday. I finally printed out the M-1105 (instead of looking at it on my computer) and did a check mark at each step.
Everything is running as it should be right now. Started right up this am. Started up Hot after I got to work. (I have all the tools in the trunk to futz with it again if I need to.)
I am a bit nervous about reading what Ed said below:
I am curious as to why I could not find the 0.195 anywhere on the net for the MM EFI.
Would this be in the EDM or the SM?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,578
Likes: 463
From: On a Lake, not far from the Gulf
Leave it alone. The values you have it set to are correct. The .195v I believe is for Delphi EFI, not M&M.
If it is running right why mess with it. You won't mess anything up if the values are wrong. It just won't fire.
If it is running right why mess with it. You won't mess anything up if the values are wrong. It just won't fire.
Actually, the .275 spec is a misprint that just wasn't corrected. I'm personally aware of this and just trying to share accurate information. The .275 was a MM for EVO and the MM Twin Cams were typically around .175 but .195 was a good sweet spot to set them to. This setting was done with the throttle blades 100% closed (cables slacked, screws backed off) and was the base TP voltage.
Delphi uses a different value, but the key there is to look at your IAC steps. It becomes a balancing act when guys replace throttle bodies with aftermarket ones. The IAC needs to be open, but open toward the lower end. This allows idle control cold as well as ability to lower the idle. A typical is around 35ish to 40 at hot idle and be aware of the threshold spec. Could be a few steps lower but thats a good target range.
Hope this helps clear up any confusion.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,578
Likes: 463
From: On a Lake, not far from the Gulf
Thanks for the clarification Ed. I have not seen the info on the misprint before. I have found two Harley tech bulletins that list the .275 value. I am not doubting you, especially since you mentioned the .175 value as being for the Twin Cam MM systems.
That's why I love this forum. A great group of members that share helpful information.
That's why I love this forum. A great group of members that share helpful information.
Stage III
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: tennessee
I know old thread but Im in same boat! 2001 Road Glide with m&m. 88 twin cam but big bore kit. I have a broken tps. Im replacing. So do I use the .275 or .175? Any help Would be appreciated. Thanks.
1) Make sure that the cold idle screw is backed out and is not affecting the throttle at all. Turn in hot idle screw so it starts to hold the throttle open.
2) Engine must be fully to temp and you will set your hot idle to 950-1050 rpm. Adjust hot idle screw until you get it in this range.
3) You will then turn off the engine and pull the ignition fuse for a minute, This setting will become the base threshold that the ECM will use to know it is at Idle. Anything at or below this voltage, engine will see as Idle. Anything above it will see as not idle.
4) Reinstall fuse and start engine - make sure it idles at the desired speed. If you had a scanalyzer you would want to see Idle/WOT "YES" If you saw "NO" you would lower the idle slightly (staying within spec) or repeat the procedure.
5) Turn off engine. Plug in IAC motor and turn ignition on but do not start - IAC stepper motor will step out.
6 ) Unplug IAC Stepper motor
7) Turn cold idle screw until it starts to hold the throttle open. You will have to roll the throttle open - do not let it slam shut on the IAC motor or it will push the motor in slightly and mess you up.
8) Start engine - adjust until you get 1300 rpm - you will have to kill the engine while making the adjustments.
9) After 1300 rpm is achieved on the cold idle, turn off engine.
10) Plug in IAC motor
11) Turn key on - then off - wait 20 seconds - turn key on - then off
12) Start engine - if engine is hot, it should flash to the 1300 then quickly drop to the set hot idle.
A scanalyzer will allow you to monitor engine temp and Idle/WOT settings, but if you do not have one, the above is the best you can do. There is a TSB on setting using voltages but this is easy to do at home and very accurate for the individual bike.
2) Engine must be fully to temp and you will set your hot idle to 950-1050 rpm. Adjust hot idle screw until you get it in this range.
3) You will then turn off the engine and pull the ignition fuse for a minute, This setting will become the base threshold that the ECM will use to know it is at Idle. Anything at or below this voltage, engine will see as Idle. Anything above it will see as not idle.
4) Reinstall fuse and start engine - make sure it idles at the desired speed. If you had a scanalyzer you would want to see Idle/WOT "YES" If you saw "NO" you would lower the idle slightly (staying within spec) or repeat the procedure.
5) Turn off engine. Plug in IAC motor and turn ignition on but do not start - IAC stepper motor will step out.
6 ) Unplug IAC Stepper motor
7) Turn cold idle screw until it starts to hold the throttle open. You will have to roll the throttle open - do not let it slam shut on the IAC motor or it will push the motor in slightly and mess you up.
8) Start engine - adjust until you get 1300 rpm - you will have to kill the engine while making the adjustments.
9) After 1300 rpm is achieved on the cold idle, turn off engine.
10) Plug in IAC motor
11) Turn key on - then off - wait 20 seconds - turn key on - then off
12) Start engine - if engine is hot, it should flash to the 1300 then quickly drop to the set hot idle.
A scanalyzer will allow you to monitor engine temp and Idle/WOT settings, but if you do not have one, the above is the best you can do. There is a TSB on setting using voltages but this is easy to do at home and very accurate for the individual bike.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Apr 12, 2019 at 03:01 PM.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Times Harley-Davidson Chucked Tradition Out the Window
Verdad Gallardo
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
