Hi All,
2001 RK EFI (MM). My bike started to have idling issues at both warm and cold engine temps and it was a worse in the rainy misty weather than when it was nicer.

A friend suggested that I adjust the Cold/Warm idles via voltage readings from the wire going into the TPS (pin through wire to read voltage). The Voltage was low with butterflies closed and a cold engine (0.200DCV when it should be about0.265). Upon Closer inspection, I notices that the TPS right underneath the connector was cracked/broke. I know that this may or may not be the cause of the issue, but it is an issue that needs to be fixed before I start messing with other things.

Does anyone have a good write up or a Video showing the replacement then calibration of the TPS?
This Video is a good place for me to start with the calibration, but I was hoping for a good place to "start" the calibration from.


Thanks In Advance,
Solo

 

What exactly are the symptoms that your bike displays. The cracked TPS is probably effecting it in wet weather. You need to get the voltage on a bike that is fully up to temperature. If you cannot, then use the 0.275v value. Do you have a service manual? The instructions to R&R the TPS are in it. Use the warm/ cold idle set instructions in M-1105 as they are updated from what is in the manual.

 

Hey Larsfum, Here is what's happening and a bit of background:
In February, I bought a 2001 Road King Fuel Injected with 53K miles,Stage 1 intake, V&H Oval Slip Ons. Power Commander 2.(cam tensioners done at 45K) I've put on abut 4100 miles on since. I get about 37 MPG when I average about 70mph. (25mpg if i average over 80). I commute about 100 miles round trip several days/week rain or shine.

Over the past month,(pretty much rained every day) the bike slowly started to run differently.....

• the cold idle slowly dropped from where it should be to really low. The real classic potato, potato, potato sound. (sounded great)
• It started stall for the first 10-15 minutes at stop lights.
• After it stalled, It is kind of hard to start. I need to twist the throttle a bit.
• At this point, it was running OK warm.
• Over the course of 2 weeks(even more rainy) the warm idle started to get lower Similar to the cold symptoms. (stalling at lights and when I would pull the clutch to coast is stop and go traffic. Same start up with a little throttle.)

This past weekend it got really bad. I was on a BACA Fundraiser ride and it just wasn't running right. Can't explain it, but it didn't "feel" right. I got home and figured I should give the procedure in that video a try. (Hoping I would not need to touch the TPS) That is when I noticed a crack in the TPS.

The image below is not my TPS but I marked in yellow where the crack was. I could see the "wires" in the crack. the area circled in red(pink?) was not there. It was just the Brass part.



While testing the engine was "HOT" but i pulled the ISC (cold idle motor/solenoid connector) actuator connector. As it said in the video. The voltage was 0.200 with the butterflies closed. I monkey'd around with the TPS trying to get the value up to 0.275 and i could not get to to go above 0.230.

At that point I said screw it. I tightened the TPS. Blue goo'd around the crack to keep moisture out and went about setting the cold idle via the video voltage. I set the warm idle "by ear".

I think I have the idles both set too high (by my ear tachometer). But it is running and not stalling.

Maybe I am imagining things but it seems to be running better. More responsive on the throttle? I am not sure if the low voltages from the tps messed with the fuel amounts being used. Of course I am a just making wild guesses at how the tps interfaces with the ECU and EFI.


I pick up the TPS from a local dealer today. I am not sure if I will get a chance to install it tonight or if i will do it tomorrow morning. I have a feeling that getting it set to 0.275 is going to be a bitch.


I hope what I said make sense.

 

I got the TPS in today. Got home and installed it. Took about 45 minutes to hit the .275, not too bad. Everytime I tightened it, it would change a bit. I got it dead on .275 tight with blue locktite.

Set the cold idle at .650.....now I have to wait til morning. I didn't want to wake the landlords up. The garage is under their bedroom. And I didn't want to **** off the whole neighborhood.

I'll update again tomorrow.

 

Everything seems to be running properly now. I have the Warm Idle set and I just pulled the fuses to the ECM. I am not sure why i have to do this but It says to do it so I did.

I still need to nail polish where I back probed but I am going to hold off for a few days just in case I need to start over. (Plus I can steal some nail polish from my daughter when I see her instead of buying it.)

Time to button her back up and give her a good polish and hopefully find a nice fender bunny for Memorial Day weekend and possibly Rolling Thunder.

Thanks for listening to me during this process.
Solo

PS: I'll upload a Pic of the old TPS. (Still have no idea how this happened)

 

Well.....that didn't work. After letting the bike sit for 2 hours with the ECM fuses pulled, I put them in and wanted to go for a ride. Won't Start and Check engine light after I press the start button. UGH.....

Lets see what I can find....

 

Actually for a twin cam the spec is a misprint. .195v at completely closed throttle (no cables or hot or cold idle stops engaged) is where you want to start. Many twin cams came out around .175v. Evo was the higher voltage spec and it wasn't caught in the manuals.

Set the hot idle, keep the cold cpmpletely off. When you pull the fuse it is to make the ECM learn highest idle voltage before the data bot switched to IDLE/WOT NO.

Then you can always set the cold idle later and don't have to pull fuse. You need it to get to IDLE/WOT YES after it warms up and comes off cold idle.

If you're really lost I can probably send you instructions I wrote on this years ago (I'd have to search)

 

Ugh. Well, I got it working properly at 0.275dcv 0.650 cold idle. And by ear the warm.

My mistake was with the ICS being in the starting position not parked.

 

Here is the TPS that I replaced...

 

Yeah, That TPS needed to be replaced. Glad to hear that you got her running. The 0.60-0.68 VDC value is the correct value for an M&M Twin Cam system. Both M-1105 and this instruction sheet (Page 7 step 6) verify that.

http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US...ts/-J01790.pdf